A Not-So-Amsterdam Netherlands

Yes, I know—the title of this itinerary says not-so-Amsterdam, but hear me out. Not only is Amsterdam the easiest entry point (hello, Schiphol Airport), but it’s also a city rooted in the Dutch Golden Age, layered in history, canals, and crooked charm. It may be tourist-heavy, but it’s still worth easing into your week here—especially if you time it right and avoid the overload.

Where to stay

I recommend checking in at the Park Plaza Victoria—conveniently across from Amsterdam Centraal. It’s not just a great location—the hotel itself is a 19th-century monument, a stone’s throw from the Jordaan and Dam Square.

If you’re arriving late, skip the guided tours and settle in with a slow, cinematic first night. Head to Tuschinski Theater, arguably one of the most beautiful cinemas in Europe. Even if the movie is average, the Art Deco interior alone is worth the visit.

Dinner recommendation

Just around the corner, grab a plate of fresh handmade pasta at Isola Bella, a cozy Italian restaurant that never lets me down.

Still have energy? Nightlife options include:

• Coco’s Outback: An Aussie pub that does karaoke, dancing, and solid people-watching.

• Reguliersdwarsstraat: Amsterdam’s famous LGBTQ+ strip with clubs like:

• Club NYX (3 floors, rooftop, glitter everywhere)

• Taboo (drag shows, dance floor, always a vibe)

• The Waterhole: Live bands and a casual crowd.

• Paradiso: A legendary venue housed in a converted church. Check the lineup in advance.

• Chicago Social Club: Trendy with a cool Dutch crowd.

Curious about coffeeshops?

(Not my favorite angle of Amsterdam, but if you’re going to explore it…):

• Prix D’Ami: Pink-lit maze of lounges, gaming zones, and questionable nachos.

• Easytimes: Local-approved, mellow, clean.

• Dampkring: Insta-famous, cozy, and a bit surreal.

• Smokey’s: Christmas lights, college energy, borderline nostalgic.

Optional wind-down

Take a calm evening canal stroll through the Jordaan district, or simply sit by the water and let the first layer of Dutch charm soak in.

Now that you’ve landed and shaken off the jet lag, you may be wondering: should I dive into Amsterdam properly, or skip ahead to the real gems? Totally up to you—but if you do want to explore the city, I recommend doing it in a way that avoids the tourist chaos.

Start slow with a canal tour

But not just any boat ride. Book through Lovers or GetYourGuide and choose a route that departs near the Anne Frank House. These tend to be more intimate and scenic, winding through the quieter, more charming canals of the Jordaan and Western Canal Belt.

You’ll get your dose of history and architecture without dodging crowds or wobbling over cobblestones.

Art & culture picks

If you’re an art or museum lover, Amsterdam has a world-class lineup, and you really can’t go wrong with:

• Rijksmuseum – Dutch Masters, Rembrandts, history overload in a gorgeous setting.

• Van Gogh Museum – Iconic, emotional, and beautifully curated.

• NXT Museum – A newer, immersive digital art experience for something more modern.

Local tip: I’ve got a few insider connections for underground exhibitions and pop-up cultural events that change by the season. If you’re looking for something off the radar, feel free to reach out—or keep your eyes peeled for posters near De Pijp or Westerpark.

Lunch break?

Duck into De Laatste Kruimel for a cozy canal-side meal with hearty quiches, baked goods, and excellent coffee.

Afternoon mood

Take it slow. Wander through De Negen Straatjes (The Nine Streets) for some boutique shopping and charming photography spots, or rent a bike and head to Vondelpark for a little green escape in the city.

Tomorrow, we head out of Amsterdam and into Leiden, where Dutch charm meets university town chill.

Just 30 minutes from Amsterdam by train, Leiden is a perfect one-day escape—or a half-day stop if you’re in a hurry. But honestly, this charming university town deserves a full, slow day if you can give it one. Known for its springtime tulip fields, quaint canals, and Rembrandt roots, Leiden offers a softer, more local take on the Netherlands.

Train from Amsterdam Centraal to Leiden Centraal: Easy, direct, and frequent. No need to book in advance—just show up, hop on, and you’ll be there in no time.

Morning: Gentle wandering and hidden history

Start your day by simply wandering. The streets of Leiden are lined with 17th-century architecture, quiet bridges, and ivy-covered facades. It’s the kind of place where walking is the activity.

For the culture lovers:

• Visit Rembrandt’s birthplace (marked by a commemorative plaque) and learn about the early life of the Dutch master.

• The Museum of Antiquities (Rijksmuseum van Oudheden) is also worth a stop for history buffs—especially if you’re curious about Roman, Egyptian, or Greek artifacts.

Afternoon: Do as the locals do

The best way to enjoy Leiden? Park yourself beside a canal with a drink in hand and let the day unfold. Two perfect canal-side spots for a relaxed borrel (Dutch-style drink and snack hour):

• Annie’s: Right on the water with a big terrace and excellent views.

• Einstein: Student-favorite, good vibes, and solid local beers.

Order a local brew or a glass of wine and pair it with a bitterbal or cheese platter. Let the water traffic drift by.

Optional Add-On: Delft

If you’re moving at a faster pace or want to double-up, Delft is just 15 minutes away by train and pairs perfectly with Leiden. Delft brings that classic blue-and-white ceramic soul and a royal legacy, which we’ll get into next…

Not ready to leave Leiden?

I get it. If you’re considering spending more time here, feel free to check out my Leiden Guide, where I dive deeper into the city’s best cafes, walks, and hidden corners.

Tomorrow, we go full ceramic charm in Delft.

Delft feels like stepping straight into a painting—fitting, since this is the hometown of Johannes Vermeer. The city is known for its historic beauty, royal history, and of course, Delft Blue ceramics. Whether you’re a museum-lover, antique hunter, or just here for the atmosphere, Delft is a dream day trip.

Train from Leiden to Delft: A quick 15-minute ride. No stress, just hop on and glide into another century.

Morning: Delft Blue & a walk through history

Start your day with a visit to Royal Delft, the original Delftware factory and museum. You can watch artists paint the classic blue-and-white patterns, learn about the technique’s history, and even try your hand at painting a tile or plate if you’re feeling creative.

Not into workshops?

Skip straight to Delft’s antique shops, scattered throughout the old town, many of which sell authentic, original Delft Blue pieces. Some are genuine antiques. Others just feel like them. Either way, treasure hunting here is half the fun.

Must-see stops as you stroll:

• Oude Kerk: The leaning church of Delft. Vermeer is buried here. It’s quiet, solemn, and worth a peek.

• Nieuwe Kerk: Across the square, it holds the tomb of William of Orange and offers a climbable tower for sweeping views.

• Canals & Carriage Ride: Yes, they’re touristy. But in Delft, horse-drawn carriages feel romantic rather than kitschy.

Lunch: Mussels in the square at Belgian Beer Café Belvédère

Grab a seat in the main plaza, order a glass of cold white wine and the mussels (moules)—they’re served steaming in a big pot, loaded with herbs and garlic, and absolutely hit the spot after a morning of walking. Take your time. Watch the trams go by. Feel the soft hum of the city around you.

Dinner: Creative bites at Hanno

After a leisurely afternoon (perhaps popping into a few more boutiques or taking a peaceful canal walk), head to Hanno for dinner. Their menu features globally inspired dishes and creative twists on local favorites. It’s a good way to close out a day that’s all about blending the past and the present.

Optional tip: If you’re loving the pace of Delft, consider staying the night in town before heading to Rotterdam the next morning—it’s peaceful, charming, and beautifully quiet after the day-trippers leave.

Next up: Rotterdam, the total opposite of everything you’ve seen so far—in the best way.

Rotterdam is unlike anywhere else in the Netherlands—and that’s exactly the point. This is a city that was almost entirely destroyed during WWII, and instead of rebuilding what was lost, it imagined something new. The result? A bold, futuristic, slightly wild cityscape that feels more like a creative experiment than a traditional European town.

It was also the first place I ever lived in the Netherlands, and it remains one of my favorites. Everything here is foreign, fresh, and full of potential.

Morning

Market culture & city energy: Start your day with one of Rotterdam’s Saturday markets, depending on your vibe:

• Oogstmarkt (near Noordplein): Smaller, food-focused, packed with local producers and prepared dishes.

• Blaak Market: Huge and chaotic in the best way, with everything from produce and meats to plants, tools, and odd gadgets you didn’t know you needed.

These markets are a great way to feel the local rhythm—less touristy than Amsterdam, more grounded, more “real.”

Lunch: Inside the Mothership (Markthal)

Once you’ve wandered, head to Markthal, Rotterdam’s iconic food hall that looks like a giant, space-age arc. The inside is covered in a vivid, oversized ceiling mural of fruits and flowers, and the outside? Believe it or not—those are apartments lining the walls. People live in this thing.

Order from: The Duck Truck—just try the goat duck burger.

Bonus: Right next door are two major sights:

• Cube Houses: Weird, wonderful tilted cube apartments you can walk through.

• St. Laurenskerk: One of the few buildings that survived the WWII bombings, quietly reminding you of what once was.

Keep your eyes on the ground as you walk—red tiles with flames mark every spot where a bomb landed during the Rotterdam Blitz.

Evening: Soju, cocktails & clubs

Rotterdam’s nightlife is diverse, fun, and easy to dive into. Here’s the flow:

1. Start at Soju Bar: A small, high-energy Korean spot serving bold, shareable plates and lots of soju (you’ll see it on nearly every table). It’s a great launchpad for the night.

2. Then head to:

Stadhuisplein: Rotterdam’s “main square” for cocktails and bar-hopping.

Witte de Withstraat: A stylish strip packed with trendy cocktail bars, art galleries, and the city’s effortlessly cool crowd.

When you’re ready to dance:

• Reverse Club: A solid option near Rotterdam Centraal with a good mix of local DJs.

• Toffler: For those craving a darker, harder techno night in a raw, underground setting.

Pro tip: Rotterdam’s metro and tram system is fast and easy, but taxis are also reliable late at night if your legs give out after dancing.

After a night of dancing, soju, and cocktail bar-hopping, it’s time to slow things down. Luckily, Rotterdam does chill just as well as it does nightlife. Today is all about embracing the green—both in the parks and (for some) in the coffeeshops—plus a few quirky stops and a skyline dinner to close things out.

Morning: Picnic & nature in the city

Kralingse Bos & Plas: Rotterdam’s biggest and most beloved park is the perfect place to recharge and reconnect with nature. You’ll find a beach, stables, windmills, deer, wild bunnies, and endless walking trails that will make you forget you’re in a major European port city. Pack some snacks, breathe in the trees, and fully embrace the slower pace.

Tip: Pick up fresh bread or pastries from Bakker Klootwijk to turn your morning into a proper picnic.

Lunch: Steaks, drinks & a view

Apartt: Head back toward the city center and grab a table at Apartt, located right across from the Cube Houses and Calex building. This spot serves up great steaks, solid borrel platters, and has a prime terrace for people-watching and architecture-gazing. It’s casual, stylish, and very Rotterdam.

Afternoon: A different kind of ‘green’

Stop by REEF Coffeeshop: If you’re curious about Rotterdam’s coffeeshop scene, REEF is a local favorite with a chilled-out vibe and a unique aquarium-style interior. Whether you’re partaking or just stopping in out of curiosity, it’s a very on-brand Rotterdam experience—bold, unexpected, and full of character.

Cultural (or playful) options:

• Depot Boijmans Van Beuningen: A massive, mirrored building shaped like a flower pot that houses one of the world’s first public art storage facilities. Browse thousands of unseen artworks in an unconventional setting.

Dutch Pinball Museum: For something more interactive, head here to play your way through pinball history. Machines from nearly every era are on display—and playable.

Evening: Het Park & dinner in the sky

• Het Park: Wrap up your day with a slow walk through Het Park, Rotterdam’s green heart. It’s peaceful, full of old trees, and a perfect place to digest the day before your final dinner.

• Dinner at the Euromast: End your Rotterdam chapter with a dinner at the top of the Euromast. With panoramic views over the skyline and harbor, it’s a perfect, cinematic finale.

Reservations are essential, especially around sunset—so plan ahead.

Next up: Utrecht, the cozy canal city that many Dutch locals secretly prefer over Amsterdam.

For your final full day, head to Utrecht, a city that seamlessly blends the historic and the modern, often described by locals as “Amsterdam without the crowds.” With charming canals, gothic architecture, and hidden garden courtyards, it’s the perfect place to wind down your Dutch adventure—and maybe do a little last-minute shopping while you’re at it.

Train from Rotterdam to Utrecht: A direct, comfortable ride—about 40 minutes.

Morning: From shopping to storybook streets

• Hoog Catharijne Mall: Arriving by train drops you directly into Hoog Catharijne, one of the Netherlands’ largest and most modern shopping centers. If you’ve got souvenirs or gifts left on your list, this is the place to check those off in one go.

From there, stroll into Utrecht’s old town, where crooked houses, canal-side cafés, and charming side streets await.

• Climb the Dom Tower: If you’re feeling ambitious, take on the 465 steps to the top of the Dom Tower, the tallest church tower in the Netherlands. The panoramic views of Utrecht and its surrounding countryside are well worth the climb.

Lunch: Canal-level dining

Your Options:

• Il Pozzo: A cozy Italian spot right on the water, perfect for pasta or antipasti with a view.

• Rum Club: Caribbean-Latin fusion with tropical cocktails and bold flavors.

• De Muntkelder: For a taste of tradition, try this Dutch pancake house tucked under the bridge with a canal-side terrace.

Wherever you choose, eating at canal level is a must—it’s one of Utrecht’s most iconic experiences.

Optional afternoon escape: De Haar Castle

Want to squeeze in one last fairy-tale moment? Hop on a short train and bus ride to Kasteel de Haar, a stunning neo-Gothic castle surrounded by landscaped gardens, moats, and peacocks. It’s best to visit earlier in the day, but even an afternoon stroll here is magical.

Dinner: A toast to the journey

Top spots to end your trip:

• Florin: A relaxed yet lively pub with a modern Dutch menu and a great vibe.

• Villa Orloff: Warm atmosphere, seasonal dishes, and a classic Dutch dining experience—the perfect setting for a farewell dinner.

Departure notes: Utrecht is well connected to Schiphol Airport by train (approx. 30–40 minutes), so you can head there directly for your flight home. Just be sure to check train times in advance, especially for early flights or Sunday travel.