Six Days Road-Tripping through Big Bend Country

The first day of the trip is meant for getting settled and prepared for the week ahead.

Upon arrival in Midland (either flying or driving), I recommend heading to a local grocery store to stock up on snacks, your preferred caffeine source and other sustenance you might like to have on hand. Grocery stores are small in Big Bend Country, with limited supplies that are often quite expensive. Pro tip: It never hurts to pack / buy a cooler for the trip, since you’ll be moving among locations and might need to keep items refrigerated.

After stocking up on sustenance, indulge in a late lunch at Pachuco’s on the outskirts of downtown Midland. This former food truck-turned-brick and mortar offers BBQ and Korean fusion with a Mexican twist. The brisket elote is not to be missed!

Once your stomachs (and cooler!) are full, it’s time to head down south. Destination: Alpine, Texas.

Alpine, the home of Sul Ross State University, is about a 2.5-hour drive from Midland. There are a number of unique places to stay, as some use this as their central base for exploring the area; you can choose from yurts, shipping containers or even a boat to rest your head.

After checking in and getting settled, head to the historic Reata for dinner. This has been an institution in the area for nearly 30 years and offers some of the best Texas cuisine in the area (and excellent cocktails). Reservations are required; plan ahead, as the restaurant does fill up. If you’re in the mood for a nightcap after, head down the street to The Ritchey for a drink and live music.

Ah, there’s nothing like your first slow morning in Big Bend. After enjoying the crisp morning with some coffee and sunshine, pack the car and get ready for your first hike of the trip.

My favorite hike in the Big Bend area is The Desk on Hancock Hill on the Sul Ross campus. Legend has it that in 1979, three Sul Ross students dragged a desk up to the top of Hancock Hill in search of a “quiet place to study.” I tend to wonder what the real story is. Regardless, it makes for a cool hike and beautiful views today — one of the quirks that make West Texas so unique. This 1.8-mile loop makes for a great start to your day to get the blood flowing. Pro tip: It is steep at first, but levels out pretty quickly. The elevation gain is less than 300 feet, so it's an all-around easy hike.

To reward yourself for accomplishing your first hike of the trip, head down the road to Fort Davis for some lunch, history and patio cocktails. First stop: lunch at Antojitos del Comal Salvadoreños, a bright yellow food truck on State Street. Choose from any of the home-cooked items, ranging from tacos to quesadillas to pupusas.

After lunch, walk off your meal by exploring the fort itself and Davis Mountains State Park and learning about the history that put Fort Davis on the map in the 1800s. If you find yourself thirsty, head to the courtyard at the historic Limpia Hotel for a cocktail and some respite from the sun. And then, off to Marfa for the weekend!

There is no shortage of unique places to stay in Marfa, but my favorites are El Cosmico for the adventurous or Corte del Norte for those who desire something more conventional. Either way will give you the true Marfa experience. For a special dinner to kick off the weekend, indulge in the tasting menu at Cochineal, by James Beard-nominated Chef Alexandra Gates. Reservations are required and should be made promptly once they open. For something more casual, check out The Water Stop or Alta Marfa.

After the wine pairing and an exquisite dinner at Cochineal, if you’re up for a nightcap, wander down the street to Capri for one last cocktail or Planet Marfa for a cold beer. But don’t stay out too late, as there is a busy day ahead!

Saturday is the perfect day to explore Marfa and all that it has to offer. After enjoying a slow morning, make your way out to Valentine, Texas, to visit the Prada Marfa, an iconic art exhibit that has been a stalwart of the Marfa art scene since 2005. Pro tip: It is not actually located in Marfa, so budget about a 35-minute drive each way to get there and back.

Head back into town for lunch at Para Llevar for wood-fired pizza or Marfa Burrito for homemade, authentic burritos. Walk off your lunch by exploring the art installations at The Chinati Foundation on the outskirts of town. Pro tip: If you want to take a guided, in-depth tour, make reservations in advance, as these do book up on the weekends. There are many Donald Judd exhibits throughout town, so make sure to check them all out when you’re exploring.

At this point in the day, you’ve absolutely earned a cocktail and some shopping time. Stop by Marfa Spirit Company for some cocktails made with locally sourced sotol (an agave spirit unique to the area). You can’t go wrong with a prickly pear margarita anywhere in the area — when in West Texas! After cooling off with your cocktail, pop in to some of the local shops to see what the purveyors are offering. Some of my favorites are Among My Souvenirs for chic bolo ties, hats and other Western wear, Raba Marfa for unique vintage finds and Marfa Mood for kitschy trinkets and souvenirs.

After dropping your packages back at the house, it’s time to freshen up for an early dinner in town before heading to the McDonald Observatory for their legendary “Star Party.” On our most recent trip, we were able to see Mars and Saturn from some of the on-site telescopes! Pro tip: Budget at least 45 minutes to drive from Marfa to the observatory and purchase your tickets well in advance, as this fills up quickly!

You’re on the move again — this time, to Terlingua for a couple of nights. Make sure to stick around in Marfa long enough to grab an early lunch at the recently James Beard-nominated Bordo on your way out of town. Pro tip: Get there right at 11 when they open to avoid a long line.

Once you’ve had your fill of their artisanal sandwiches on homemade bread, slowly make your way to Lajitas to check out the Lajitas Golf Resort. While the golf course is something special, if golf isn’t your thing, there is also a spa for some pampering or Candelilla Café, with excellent views and cold margaritas. On your way out of town, don’t forget to pay Mayor Clay Henry, the beer-drinking goat, a visit at the Lajitas General Store!

Onward about 15 minutes down the road to Terlingua, the legendary “ghost town” that is starting to have a big revival. This is personally my favorite stop while in Big Bend — quirky restaurants, unique accommodations and loads of history, just minutes from Big Bend National Park.

Pro tip: Before checking in to your rental (whether bubble, tepee, house or yurt!), go put your name down at the Starlight Theatre for dinner. The wait can be hours long (yes, I am serious), so go early (between 4 and 5 pm) to put your name down. They’ll text you when your table is ready.

After a dinner of Texas cuisine and cold beer, settle in at the firepit at your rental for a nightcap. And rest up for an adventureful next day!

Day 5 begins with an early breakfast at Espresso y Poco Más in the heart of Terlingua — have to start the day with some fuel before heading into the park. Then it’s time to head into Big Bend National Park for some hiking, views and exploration. Take some time to plan out what you want to see ahead of time, as the park is quite expansive. My favorite stops include Chisos Basin (hike The Window or, for those faint of heart, The Window View trails), Santa Elena Canyon and Boquillas, Mexico. If you’re doing longer hikes, not all of these stops are possible. But if you are just there for the views, then I encourage you to drive to all of these stops. Pro tip: You can make this day extra special by renting a roadster convertible for limitless views or a jeep for off-roading.

If you are still up for adventure, consider scheduling a sunset trail ride with Big Bend & Lajitas Stables. However, no judgement here if a nap and a cold drink are in order instead. Either way, end the day by winding down by the fire with some pizza from Long Draw Pizza. If you’re feeling up to dining in town, check out Taqueria el Milagro or La Kiva Restaurant & Bar.

The last day is here already! After another yummy breakfast at Espresso y Poco Más, it is time to hit the road to your final destination: Marathon, Texas, to check into The Gage Hotel. This hotel is one of my favorites in Texas and it is very special to experience. They offer accommodations for all group sizes, up to multi-bedroom homes nearby. My recommendation is to stay in the heart of it all in their Los Portales wing to truly experience The Gage magic.

In the afternoon, explore The Gage grounds and surrounding areas. Have some BBQ and beer at Brick Vault Brewery & BBQ, wander through the Gage Gardens or pick up a snack at The French Grocer. If time permits, sit by the pool or stop by the spa and take in all of the West Texas wonder that you’ve gotten to experience over the last few days.

But don’t get too full — save room for dinner at 12 Gage Restaurant, offering some of the best chicken fried steak in the state. Don’t sleep on their Old Fashioneds, either!

After one last sleep under the stars, it’s time to head home — either to Midland to catch your flight or back out on the open road. Until next time, Big Bend!