South of Everything: Frozen Seas & Wild Encounters

As a first-time cruiser, nothing could've quite prepared me for the excitement — and the nerves — of heading into the infamous Drake Passage. This 800-kilometer stretch between Cape Horn and Livingston Island is where South America let go of Antarctica millions of years ago (anywhere between 49 to 170 million, depending on who you ask). Today, it’s the shortest (and boldest) route to the White Continent, and home to the legendary "Drake Shake."

And oh yes — we felt the shake. With waves reaching up to six to seven meters (that's about 23 feet!), this stretch of sea certainly lives up to its reputation. But to my surprise, our stateroom was a haven — spacious, cozy and incredibly stable given the conditions. Pro tip: take your seasickness meds before departure and secure loose items — you'll thank yourself later.

Despite the rocking, life aboard was lively. Trivia games, puzzles and evening entertainment helped keep spirits high. The ship had a certain "White Lotus" luxury vibe, but cozier and more intimate. And can we talk about the food? With 24/7 all-inclusive dining (yes, including drinks), it felt indulgent in the best way. For vegetarians, the kitchen was open to special requests — just be sure to let them know in advance!

One unexpected highlight? Keeping watch for the Southern Lights — Aurora Australis. While not as commonly seen as their northern sibling, these natural light shows do make an appearance when solar activity and conditions are just right. Caused by charged particles from the sun colliding with Earth's magnetic field, these dancing lights shimmer in greens and purples, best spotted away from light pollution and during the darkest hours. We kept a hopeful eye on the horizon each night — because spotting them here, in the middle of the Drake, would be a once-in-a-lifetime thrill.

I’ll admit it—Antarctica wasn’t high on my travel list. I came into this more curious than excited, but today totally caught me off guard in the best way.

We made our first landings at Mikkelsen Harbour and later cruised through Cierva Cove, and both were completely different but equally impressive.

Mikkelsen Harbour is a small bay on Trinity Island, known for its gentoo penguin colonies — and they’re everywhere. They’re surprisingly entertaining to watch, just going about their lives, completely unbothered by us. You can also spot some massive whale bones from former whaling operations, which adds an unexpected historical layer to the landscape.

Cierva Cove is more about the scenery — massive icebergs, glacier backdrops and mirror-still water. We explored by Zodiac, and it’s one of those places that’s almost too quiet and too beautiful to describe properly. We saw a few seals on the ice and a humpback whale off in the distance.

Back on the ship, I’m still impressed by how comfortable everything is. The dining is all-inclusive and runs 24/7, which is ideal after spending hours out in the cold. The atmosphere is relaxed but upscale — luxurious without being over the top.

After excursions, the sauna is a must — it really helps shake off the chill. There’s no full spa onboard, but massages are available if you book ahead. The gym’s decent, and there are great views even from the treadmills. WiFi is available and surprisingly reliable, though expensive ($300 for unlimited access). Honestly, a surprisingly great place to work remotely — if you can focus with all the icebergs floating by.

Still kind of surprised how much I’m enjoying this place. It’s remote and extreme — but also peaceful and weirdly exciting.

By now, I’ve started to settle into the rhythm of life down here — icy mornings, breakfast buffets, Zodiac rides, ham-and-cheese toast from the bakery as a snack, wildlife sightings, two desserts and views that stretch for miles. It’s honestly way too easy to pack on a little blubber, just like the animals here.

Today’s stop was Portal Point, a rocky headland on the Reclus Peninsula. It’s small, stark and incredibly scenic, with glaciers spilling straight into the bay. British explorers once used this route as a “gateway” to the Antarctic Plateau.

The morning Zodiac cruise was packed with wildlife. We saw humpback whales, gentoo and chinstrap penguins, Weddell seals and Antarctic terns darting above us. The air was sharp — about -6°C (21°F) — with light snow that made the whole landscape feel otherworldly. One of the whales got so close that a guest even caught it swimming just beneath the surface on video. Wild.

In the afternoon, we did another round of wildlife spotting from the ship’s heated observation deck, complete with afternoon tea — which, by the way, had some of the best little sandwiches and sweets. The expedition guides are great at helping you spot things and sharing facts in a way that feels conversational, not like a lecture.

After dinner, we had the nightly expedition recap, then “Broadway in The Dome.” Yep — show tunes in Antarctica. The lounge setup is actually perfect for live music, and after a full day on the water, it was a fun and oddly cozy way to wrap up the evening.

There’s a solid variety of onboard activities — trivia, lectures, games, even karaoke if you’re feeling bold — and just as much free time if you’d rather curl up with a drink and stare at the horizon.

There are days you know you’ll never forget — and this was definitely one of them.

We kicked things off with hot chocolate, mulled cider and a DJ set (courtesy of one of the guests!) as we crossed 66°33'50.3" S — the Antarctic Circle. This line marks the southernmost of Earth’s five major latitude circles, and the region where, for at least one day a year, the sun doesn’t set. The crew made it a full-blown celebration, complete with a ceremony and photo ops. It felt like crossing into another world.

Later that morning, we were having a quiet moment in our stateroom — "Frozen Planet" playing in the background as always — when my friend suddenly screamed, “Orcas!” At first, we thought she meant the ones on the TV… but no. Out our window.

We’d been joking about manifesting orcas the entire trip, since sightings are rare this late in the season. But not only did we see them — we saw something extraordinary: a mega pod hunting humpback whales. The orcas completely surrounded the ship. Even the scientists onboard were in disbelief. It was the kind of moment you usually only see in nature documentaries — utterly surreal.

Later in the afternoon, we landed at Detaille Island, which felt like a quiet counterbalance to the orca chaos. There's an abandoned British research base, recently restored by the British Antarctic Heritage Trust, and walking through it felt like stepping into the 1950s. Outside, a colony of Adélie penguins waddled around, completely unfazed by our presence.

And maybe the most meaningful moment of the day: we officially set foot on the Antarctic continent — not just one of the surrounding islands. For many onboard, this marked the completion of their seventh continent. I’m still missing Australia, but hey — six out of seven isn’t bad at all.

At this point, the days are starting to blur in the best way — icy landings, surprise wildlife sightings, layered thermals and the familiar routine of grabbing ham and cheese toast after every outing.

Today was a triple-port day: Jenny Island, Dalgliesh Bay and Horseshoe Island. Jenny Island looked dramatic from the start — jagged cliffs, a small glacier and massive elephant seals hauled out along the shore. These creatures can weigh up to four tons and are terrifyingly huge up close. We got to experience this firsthand during our ice kayaking excursion.

In the morning, we finally tried ice kayaking — and it’s exactly what it sounds like: paddling between chunks of floating ice, bundled up like the Michelin Man. It was silent and surreal — a kind of calm that’s hard to describe. Just us, the water, the ice and the occasional curious seal. We even learned about black ice — a clear, ancient form of ice created as air slowly escapes from compacted snow over thousands of years.

Later in the evening, we thawed out at the Circus Ticket Extravaganza — a lighthearted, raffle-style show with tapas.

Today was all about contrast: historic landmarks, glacial serenity… and a full-body shock to the system.

We started the morning with a flexible itinerary based on weather and ice conditions, but ended up landing at both Stonington Island and Red Rock Ridge. Stonington holds deep Antarctic history — it’s home to the old American East Base and British Base E, both of which feel like time capsules from the golden age of exploration.

Red Rock was more surprising — its reddish cliffs and icy ridges stood out against the snow, and penguins dotted the shoreline. This is also where we took part in the infamous Polar Plunge.

A rite of passage for the slightly unhinged, the plunge is exactly what you think: jump into freezing water, scream and try not to rethink your life choices. But mid-jump, something incredible happened — humpback whales surfaced just offshore, breaching as guests were leaping into the water. The screams? Equal parts cold shock and total disbelief.

The sauna afterward? Never felt so earned.

We ended the day with a classical piano concert by Danilo in The Dome, and for those still riding the adrenaline high, the ship’s murder mystery game continued into the evening — guests whispering theories and forming alliances over dinner. Antarctica meets "Knives Out."