Hiking, Hydrangeas & Hot Springs: The Spectacular Beauty of the Azores

If you love hiking, the Azores will steal your heart. Across the nine islands, there are more than 60 marked trails to explore. One of my favorites was the Lagoa do Fogo trail on São Miguel, which winds through lush greenery before opening to a breathtaking view of a crater lake with its stunning blue and green waters. Another unforgettable trek was on Flores, where the Fajã Grande to Ponta Delgada trail hugs the coastline, weaving past waterfalls, cliffs, and tiny seaside villages. I also loved the spontaneity of spotting a trailhead and simply setting off—I never found one that wasn’t special in some way.

After a long day of hiking, nothing beats slipping into the natural swimming pools carved into the coastline—hidden gems shaped by ancient lava flows. I loved soaking in the steamy, mineral-rich waters at Poça da Dona Beija, and the ocean pools at Biscoitos on Terceira were equally thrilling and beautiful, with waves crashing dramatically just beyond the rocks.

The botanical gardens in the Azores became unexpected highlights—places where I could slow down and just take everything in. Terra Nostra Park in Furnas felt like stepping into a fairy tale, with giant ferns, tropical trees, and winding pathways. I even took a dip in the large, warm orange thermal pool in the center (yes, it stained my swimsuit, but it was totally worth it). Jardim António Borges in Ponta Delgada had a quieter, almost secret-garden charm, with stone tunnels, towering palms, and shaded corners where I found myself lingering far longer than planned.

Museums weren’t at the top of my list, but I’m glad I made time for them. The Carlos Machado Museum in Ponta Delgada, set inside a former convent, surprised me with its beautiful mix of Azorean art, history, and quirky natural science exhibits. On Pico, the Whalers’ Museum—small but rich with stories—offered an intimate glimpse into the island’s past. The museums here don’t feel stuffy or distant; they feel personal.

Caneta felt like a true hidden gem: small, unpretentious, and full of heart. Sunday lunch is known by all the locals, and you need to get there early to be seated. It’s okay if you have to wait since wine is served outside on the patio, and it is a social event. I’ve been there twice and am in love with the succulent meat skewers that are served vertically with a cloth of garlic butter dripping slowly over them.

Dining at Furnas Lake Restaurant was such a peaceful experience, with stunning views of the lake. It was perfect after a tour of the gardens and a soak in the hot springs. I tried their famous cozido, slow-cooked underground in the volcanic heat. Sit out on the terrace and enjoy their handcrafted cocktails while looking at the gorgeous gardens.

Ti ChoaIf: If you want real traditional Azorean cooking, this is the place to go. It’s a little off the beaten path in a small town on the western side of Terciera, but it’s near some great hikes along the coast. The menu showcases a wonderful variety of meats—from tender pork to flavorful beef and rich sausages—all prepared with simple, fresh ingredients that highlight the best of Azorean flavors.

O Cachalote by Frank was one of my favorites, and we went back there numerous times. Frank is like the best friend you didn’t know you had: he is entertaining, hospitable, and, best of all, an amazing chef. One of the highlights was the lava stone grilling, where you can cook the meat to your preferred level. Fresh fish and meats are cooked over heated volcanic stones right at your table.