Globally Gluten-Free: Swimming Through Balkan Cuisine

After 12 days in the Balkans, I gained a third of a pound per day—and loved every bite. Thankfully, daily swims helped balance the indulgence. Floating between bites felt like the perfect rhythm. The region’s warm, clear waters are far from Seattle’s chilly Puget Sound that I have swam in (more like floated happily in) since I was a child. I took a dip at nearly every stop.

Places to swim

• Puntamika (Zadar, Croatia)
  From the central area, we took a taxi out to an area with large hotels and beaches for swimming. As it was the end of the season (September), food stands and chair rentals were closed—but the water was inviting. The beach was very rocky and slippery, with small crashing waves. We had a great swim and then walked to an area where we were able to take a water taxi back into town.

• Vela Prizna (Lumbarda, Korcula, Croatia)
  Vela Pržina is the largest and most popular sandy beach on Korčula Island, nestled in a south-facing cove near the village of Lumbarda. Unusual for Croatia’s typically rocky coastline, this beach offers soft sand, gentle waves, and stunning views of the Lastovo Channel.

• Sarandë (Albania)
  Sarandë's port opens directly onto a stunning horseshoe-shaped bay along the Ionian Sea, offering crystal-clear waters and a Mediterranean vibe. The nearby beachfront promenade is just a short walk away and ideal for a spontaneous swim. The water is calm and inviting, with pebbled beaches and views of Corfu across the channel.

• Rethymno (Crete, Greece)
  Rethymno's main beach stretches for several kilometers along the north coast of Crete, starting near the Venetian harbor. It features fine golden sand with shallow, often calm waters—ideal for families and casual swimmers like me.

• Asteria Beach (Syros, Greece)
  Located in the Vaporia district of Ermoupoli, Asteria Beach, was enchanting, where swimmers dive from stone platforms with views of neoclassical mansions and the lone Catholic chapel of Agios Nikolaos of the Poor.

• Spetses (Greece)
  Beyond the boutique-lined streets near the ferry port, Spetses reveals a quieter charm—intimate tavernas and cafés perched right over the water, especially around the Old Harbor. These spots offer not just fresh seafood and maritime views, but also easy access to the sea. It’s common to slip away from your table for a refreshing dip, with stone steps or small piers leading straight into the clear, turquoise water. A quick dip after lunch was perfect.

• Paradise (Amorgos, Greece)
  We rented a dune buggy to explore beyond the port. At the very end of the main road—about a half hour from the port—we stumbled upon a beach so stunning it was literally called Paradise. Think dramatic cliffs melting into aqua blue waters, the kind of place that makes you whisper “wow.” I dove in, blissfully unaware—until I surfaced and realized it was a nude beach! (Also known as textile optional.) My modest American swimsuit suddenly felt like a wool coat at a pool party. But hey—no one kicked me out, and I didn’t cause a scandal. Just a little extra fabric in a sea of freedom.

Globally Gluten-Free starts with common sense: Most countries offer naturally gluten-free dishes. In the Balkans, grilled meats, seafood, stuffed grape leaves, and polenta made it easy—and safe.

• Balkan mixed grill: A gluten-free dream
  In the Balkans, mixed grill is more than a meal—it’s a shared tradition of grilled meats or seafood, often served with naturally gluten-free sauces like ajvar (Montenegro/Bosnia), Dalmatian herb sauce (Croatia), and tzatziki (Greece). Grilled veggies and potatoes round out the plate, and many restaurants use separate fryers for potatoes—preserving flavor and reducing cross-contamination. Kebabs and gyros, served without bread, fit right in. I even found gluten-free pitas—twice.

• Pro tip: Many Balkan restaurants use dedicated fryers for potatoes, separate from those used for fish. Not for gluten safety, but to preserve flavor integrity—a happy accident for those of us with dietary needs.

Aroma Gelato (Split & Zadar, Croatia)

Croatia’s gelato scene was impressive, but Aroma Gelato took it to another level. Not only did they offer gluten-free cones, but they also handled them with clean hands, used a dedicated scoop, and served from a fresh batch. It was my first cone in decades, and the flavors were just as remarkable as the care.

Lučica Seafood Bar (Korčula)

To escape Korčula’s tourist core, we hired a driver to explore the quieter side of the island—and found magic at Vela Prizna beach. There, tucked beside the water, was Lučica: a tiny restaurant with shrimp pots tethered to the bank and a view worth lingering over. We ordered Dalmatian-style shrimp—imagine a bright, oil-and-lemon sauce reminiscent of gremolata or chimichurri, but uniquely Balkan. It was perhaps the best bite of our trip. Gluten-free sides like polenta and potatoes rounded out the meal, and the bread was served separately with care.

Konoba Ceklin (Lake Skadar)

If you're in Tivat or Kotor, take the scenic tram ride up to Montenegro’s historic capital, Cetinje—Lake Skadar is just a short hop away. There, you'll find Konoba Ceklin, a charming lakeside restaurant with a locally renowned chef and a menu that’s a dream for gluten-free travelers. Though technically a hotel, Konoba Ceklin shines as a restaurant. Call ahead and they’ll prepare fresh gluten-free bread, but the real star? The smoked trout dip—unexpected, unforgettable. The fried carp is gluten-free, and the multi-course spread of soups and sides is naturally safe and deeply satisfying. Pro tip: Wear elastic pants. You’ll want to savor every bite.

Haxhi (Sarandë)

We had researched several gluten-free spots in Sarandë, but when they turned out to be closed for the afternoon—or the season—Haxhi stepped in and stole the show. It should’ve been our first choice all along. From the moment I showed my translated gluten-free request, the manager responded warmly in English: “Of course we can help.” They had gluten-free pasta and took every precaution to ensure safety. What followed was a feast of naturally gluten-free dishes, including a standout shrimp in sauce with feta—so good we nearly licked the bowl. Fish and cheese may be debated, but this dish was pure magic. And best of all? No reaction. Just joy, flavor, and genuine hospitality.

down town (Rethymno)

In a city full of gluten-free options, down town didn’t just meet expectations—it raised the bar. From the moment we asked, the staff responded with warmth and confidence: they had plenty of gluten-free choices, including bread. The starters arrived on two separate plates—one with gluten, one without—thoughtfully plated, not as an afterthought. The octopus salad was fresh, flavorful, and naturally gluten-free. I tried the goat from the mixed grill and would order it again in a heartbeat. But the real showstopper? The mixed seafood grill. Though I didn’t order it, I still regret it—it looked divine and was confirmed gluten-free. down town wasn’t just safe—it was exceptional. No reaction, just a beautifully executed meal that felt like a celebration.

Ermoupoli Flavors (Syros)

Beyond Syros’s tourist polish, past the shipyards, we found a humble spot that delivered everything I’d hoped for: a real gyro in a gluten-free pita. The owner responded to my translation with warmth and clarity—most items were already gluten-free, the pita was heated on a dedicated grill, and they walked me through every detail. The result? A soft, flexible pita wrapped around perfectly seasoned meat, tzatziki, tomatoes, and onions. Locals trickled in, one by one—proof of its quiet reputation.

Tarsanas (Spetses)

Tarsanas, a multigenerational, family-run restaurant in Spetses’s old port, was an absolute treat. Perched above the water with a relaxed, welcoming vibe, it offered both gluten-free pasta and—what I came for—calamari breaded in gluten-free flour and fried in a dedicated fryer. We shared a spread of fava bean dip, tomato salad, and that perfectly crisp calamari—more than enough for four. Special mention to the tomato salad: naturally gluten-free and absolutely amazing.

Marinos Kosmas (Athens)

Marinos Kosmas is a gluten-free bakery that delivers the impossible—soft pitas and baklava in multiple forms. I hadn’t tasted baklava in 25 years. Was it exactly as I remembered? No. Was it absolutely AWESOME? Yes. Right next door, a gyros spot treated their gluten-free pitas like gold—stored safely, grilled separately, and served with care. This gem is off the tourist track, but I planned ahead and booked The President Hotel nearby for an overnight stay before an early flight. Bonus: gluten-free options, a rooftop bar, and a pool. Worth every step off the beaten path.