Curator’s statement
If you’re headed to Paris and looking for memorable—and reasonably priced—dining, I highly recommend spending time in the Montorgueil–Les Halles neighborhood, straddling the 1st and 2nd arrondissements on the Right Bank. This area centers around Rue Montorgueil, a vibrant, pedestrian-only street lined with boulangeries, cheese shops, cafés, and traditional brasseries. What we especially loved about this neighborhood is that it feels authentically Parisian and refreshingly local—bustling with energy but far less touristy than many other central areas. It’s a great place to wander, shop for picnic supplies, or linger over a meal. Rue Montorgueil is a lively hub where greengrocers, specialty food shops, bars, restaurants, and stylish boutiques all come together. With more café terraces per square meter than almost anywhere else in Paris, it’s the perfect place to soak up the city’s energy. In the early morning, the buzz of delivery trucks and busy shopkeepers evokes the charm of old Paris. Just off the main street, the lanes are lined with a vibrant mix of new restaurants, cocktail bars, and bohemian shops.
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Things to do in Paris
Apero at Le Compas
Shop for pastries for morning breakfast
This street is a paradise for food lovers. For iconic pastries, stop by Stohrer, the oldest patisserie in Paris, founded in 1730. Their rum baba is legendary, and their éclairs and fruit tarts are equally swoon-worthy.
Pack a picnic
For a crusty baguette and some incredible cheese, head to La Maison Kayser and Fromagerie La Fermette, where you can build the perfect picnic. Add in some fresh produce from the street’s many greengrocers, and you’ve got a ready-made feast for nearby Square du Vert-Galant or the banks of the Seine.
Enjoy terrific ice cream
While Berthillon may get most of the tourist attention, locals know to pop into Grom (a short walk away) for rich, all-natural gelato in flavors like pistachio, dark chocolate, and stracciatella. Another great option right in the area is Gelati d’Alberto—a little farther afield, but worth the walk for their sculpted flower cones and bold flavor combos. Closer to Rue Montorgueil, Amorino serves up reliably creamy gelato, with the option to add a macaron on top.
Enjoy a late-afternoon apéro
There’s nothing more Parisian than settling in at a terrace table with a glass of wine or a spritz as the city buzzes around you. Try Le Compas, a classic Parisian café with great people-watching and a solid drinks list. For something trendier, head to L’Escargot Montorgueil, a historic restaurant that’s also a great spot for an early evening glass of wine or champagne. If cocktails are more your style, detour to Experimental Cocktail Club, tucked just off the main drag, where creative mixology meets speakeasy vibes.
Explore nearby arcades (covered passages)
Just a few minutes’ walk from Rue Montorgueil, you’ll find some of Paris’s most enchanting covered passages: 19th-century glass-roofed arcades lined with quirky boutiques, vintage bookstores, and hidden cafés. Passage du Grand Cerf features soaring ironwork and artisan shops, while Galerie Vivienne oozes Belle Époque charm with its mosaic floors and refined storefronts. These arcades are perfect for a rainy afternoon or a quieter, off-the-beaten-path stroll through old Paris.
Places to eat & drink in Paris
Bouillon Julien
Bouillon Julien
A stunning Art Nouveau gem offering classic French dishes at remarkably fair prices. The menu includes favorites like escargots, beef bourguignon, and île flottante. Bouillon-style brasseries are known for offering hearty fare in historic settings, and this one is a standout. Reservations are recommended.
L’Escargot Montorgueil
This storied spot on Rue Montorgueil has been serving its namesake dish since 1832, but it’s not just about snails. The beautifully appointed dining room and wide-ranging menu of French classics make it a great choice for a slightly more refined evening.
Le Compas
A casual, lively brasserie with prime seating along Rue Montorgueil. Perfect for people-watching over a plate of steak frites or a crisp glass of white wine. It’s open all day and delivers reliable French comfort food with a relaxed vibe.
Brasserie Dubillot
Just a short walk from Montorgueil, Dubillot is a fun, modern twist on the traditional brasserie. Expect homemade terrines, generous meat dishes, and big salads, all served in a space that blends vintage charm with youthful energy. Friendly service and a lively crowd make it a great evening option.
Zinque – Rue Étienne Marcel
Around the corner from Rue Montorgueil, Zinque is a more contemporary option with a light, fresh menu: tartines, bowls, and good cocktails. It has a chic, laid-back feel and is a nice change of pace after a few rich French meals. Reservations are recommended.
Need to know
Some recent updates on Paris
Paris Métro: Paper tickets are being phased out. As of 2024, the iconic little cardboard Métro tickets are disappearing. Here's how to navigate the system:
Best option: download the Bonjour RATP app. Available on iOS and Android, the app can be used to plan routes; buy single tickets, day passes, or Navigo Week passes; and store and validate tickets digitally.
You can also buy reloadable Navigo Easy cards at machines in stations and load them via the app or at kiosks.
Note for iPhone users: You can now validate tickets directly via Apple Wallet in some cases (iOS 16+), but functionality is still expanding.
I suggest loading the app on all your phones and loading the number of tickets you anticipate for each person. While you can have multiple passes on one person’s phone, keeping them sorted can become very complicated at the turnstile.
If you have time, spend a few hours exploring the (nearby) Marais, one of Paris’s most charming and historic neighborhoods. Known for its winding medieval streets, boutiques, and hidden courtyards, it’s a great place to wander and soak in the atmosphere. It's also home to the Picasso Museum.
For a delightful lunch in the Marais, we recommend Chez Janou, a lively Provençal bistro with a huge pastis selection, generous salads, and hearty southern French fare. It’s cozy, popular, and full of local character. Reservations are a good idea if you’re planning to go during peak times.
Notre Dame has reopened for visitors, and while entry is free, it’s highly recommended to book timed tickets in advance. Doing so can help you skip the longer lines and enjoy a smoother visit. Timed tickets can be reserved online at no cost on the official website.
If you’re planning to visit the Louvre, skip-the-line tickets are strongly advised, especially during busy seasons. Use the official Louvre website to book timed entry tickets online.
If you’ve already been, consider one of these exceptional alternatives:
Musée de l’Orangerie: Home to Monet’s monumental water lilies, beautifully displayed in curved rooms designed to his specifications. The museum requires a timed entry reservation for all visitors. You can book directly via the official Orangerie ticketing site.
Musée d’Orsay: Housed in a stunning former train station, this museum features world-class Impressionist and post-Impressionist art. Skip-the-line tickets are available online and are well worth it to avoid the long entry queues.
Travel Advisor
Dave Levine
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