An Insider's Guide to the Galápagos Islands

Take a small-yacht cruise

The best way to explore the Galápagos is by small-yacht cruise. I recommend at least four nights so you can visit remote, uninhabited islands that land-based trips can’t reach. Cruise ships in the Galápagos are limited to 100 passengers. Although there are some big-name cruise companies operating there, I highly recommend using one of the local luxury yachts that hold only 14 to 20 passengers. There is a wide range of yachts that cater to every budget. I can find the perfect cruise itinerary based on your budget, trip length, and the animals you most want to encounter. Each morning on the cruise, you will awake to a different island and spend the full day snorkeling, hiking, and kayaking. The cruises are action-packed and generally include three to four excursions per day.

My top cruise experiences include:

• Snorkeling with a group of penguins while they were hunting a school of fish.

• Swimming just above eagle rays and a hammerhead shark at Kicker Rock.

• Viewing the mating dance of the waved albatross on Isla Española.

• Surprise penguin sightings while kayaking near Floreana Island.

• Swimming with hundreds of sea lions off the coast of Santa Fé Island.

Snorkel on the San Cristóbal 360 Tour

This full-day tour circles the island and includes three snorkeling stops, including the iconic Kicker Rock. I swam with sea turtles, reef sharks, sea lions, eagle rays, huge fish schools—and even spotted a hammerhead.

Fly to Isabela Island

Isabela is the largest and most laid-back island, with beach-front hotels and a relaxed vibe. It’s also one of the best places to spot Galápagos penguins (besides Fernandina)—totally worth the short flight.

• The Point by Midori is a chic waterfront restaurant serving Ecuadorian–Japanese fusion cuisine with incredible opportunities to view reef sharks from your table. Take a five-minute water taxi from Puerto Ayora to arrive at The Point, which serves fresh seafood and offers beautiful views of the water.

• Almar in Puerto Ayora offers fresh Ecuadorian seafood dishes served in a gorgeous setting directly on the bay. This is a great place to try Ecuadorian ceviche or pez brujo (a Galápagos specialty).

• Frafre Gastro Pub is a lively spot for artisanal beers and international fare right in the heart of Puerto Ayora.

• The Post in San Cristóbal serves a varied international/Ecuadorian menu with plenty of fresh seafood options right on the waterfront—perfect for sea lion–watching.

• Midori Sushi: When in Ecuador, you must eat tuna! Tuna is one of Ecuador’s main exports, and it is always fresh and delicious. This trendy sushi spot has locations on San Cristóbal and Santa Cruz Islands.

• The Fisherwoman on Isabela Island is a typical Ecuadorian seafood restaurant located on the beach. This is a great spot to spend the afternoon after biking around Isabela.