Neighborhood Edit: Trastevere – Where Rome’s Soul Comes Alive

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Advisor - Justina Pena Pan
Curated By

Justina Pena Pan

  • Arts & Culture

  • Food & Wine

  • Rome

  • Italy

  • Local Culture

Advisor - Neighborhood Edit: Trastevere – Where Rome’s Soul Comes Alive
Curator’s statement

Whether you’re here for a few hours or a few days, whether it’s your first visit or your fifth, this guide is your key to discovering a city at your own pace. Because sometimes the best way to know a city is one corner at a time. Tucked away on the western banks of the Tiber River, Trastevere is where Rome’s timeless charm meets bohemian spirit. With its cobblestone streets, ivy-draped facades and lively piazzas, this historic district is a perfect blend of old-world romance and modern sophistication. It's a place where medieval architecture meets modern artistry, every corner tells a story and the spirit of Rome is palpable. From boutique luxury hotels to Michelin-starred dining and exclusive private tours, Trastevere offers an intimate glimpse into authentic Roman life — away from the tourist crowds.

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Where to stay in Trastevere

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Things to do in Trastevere

Basilica di Santa Maria. Photo: Fatih Turan

Basilica di Santa Maria (St. Mary’s Basilica)

A historic church with stunning mosaics, dating back to the third century. It’s a key landmark in Trastevere, offering a glimpse into Rome’s early Christian heritage. The church is wheelchair accessible, ensuring all visitors can appreciate its beauty. You really can’t miss this one. Describing this basilica as stunning or beautiful really doesn’t even come close.

  • Suitable for: History lovers and those interested in early Christian art and architecture.

  • Nearby restaurants: Glass Hostaria, Peppo al Cosimato, Zia, Ripa Place.

  • Art: Nearby Piazza San Cosimato sometimes features street artists with local works for sale.

Orto Botanico (Botanical Garden)

A green oasis featuring rare plants, terraced fountains and panoramic views of Rome. It's a peaceful retreat from the city's hustle and an excellent venue for leisurely walks.

  • Suitable for: Nature enthusiasts, families and those looking for a quiet break.

  • Nearby restaurants: Enoteca Ferrara, Glass Hostaria, Spirito di Vino.

Villa Farnesina

A Renaissance villa adorned with frescoes by Raphael, showcasing the opulence of 16th-century Rome. Often overlooked by tourists, it offers an intimate art experience and is just a stone’s throw from the Botanical Garden.

  • Suitable for: Art enthusiasts, architecture lovers and those interested in Renaissance history.

  • Nearby restaurants: Il Ferro e il Fuoco, Glass Hostaria, Enoteca Ferrara, Tiberino.

San Pietro in Montorio (The Church of San Pietro in Montorio)

A historic church known for Bramante's Tempietto (Temple), considered a masterpiece of High Renaissance architecture. The site offers both architectural beauty and panoramic views of Rome as it sits on the slopes of Janiculum Hill.

  • Suitable for: Architecture lovers, history buffs and anyone seeking panoramic views of Rome.

  • Nearby restaurants: Il Ferro e il Fuoco, Glass Hostaria, Zia, Ripa Place.

Gianicolo (Janiculum Hill)

Offering one of the most breathtaking views of Rome, Janiculum Hill is ideal for a scenic walk or a quiet pause above the city. Lined with fountains, monuments and shaded paths, it’s a peaceful place to reflect — or simply take in the golden light as the sun sets over Rome’s rooftops. Timeless, romantic and especially beautiful at dusk.

  • Suitable for: Anyone looking for a quiet escape with spectacular views, nature lovers and photography enthusiasts.

  • Nearby restaurants: Il Ferro e il Fuoco, Glass Hostaria, Zia.

Basilica de Santa Cecilia

Often overlooked by visitors, the Basilica de Santa Cecilia is in a more peaceful corner of Trastevere and dedicated to the patron saint of music. Its stunning frescoes and the serene statue of Santa Cecilia by Stefano Maderno make it a tranquil retreat. This quiet church beautifully blends art, devotion and history, rewarding those who take the time to seek it out.

  • Suitable for: Music lovers, art enthusiasts and those eager to discover a lesser known yet stunning site in Trastevere.

  • Nearby restaurants: Spirito di Vino, Tiberino, Peppo al Cosimato, Ripa Place.

Teatro Belli

A small but vibrant theater offering a variety of performances, from plays to contemporary shows.

  • Suitable for: Theater lovers and those seeking an authentic local performance.

  • Nearby restaurants: Glass Hostaria, Spirito di Vino, Peppo Al Cosimato.

  • Art: Street art is common in the surrounding area, with local artists displaying their work along the streets.

Palazzo Corsini

An elegant Baroque palace that houses the National Gallery of Ancient Art, featuring works from the Renaissance and Baroque periods. The adjoining gardens provide a tranquil escape.

  • Suitable for: Art lovers and those interested in grandiose architecture and historical collections.

  • Nearby restaurants: Enoteca Ferrara, Il Ferro e il Fuoco, Glass Hostaria.

Street art tour

Wander through Trastevere’s hidden alleys and quiet, often forgotten corners to discover a different kind of Roman expression — bold, raw and undeniably modern. A guided street art tour pulls back the curtain on the artists, stories and social commentary behind the ever-changing murals that breathe new life into this historic neighborhood. Street art has always fascinated me — it’s one of the things I seek out wherever I go. It’s spontaneous, honest and often tells you more about a place than its postcards or landmarks ever could.

  • Suitable for: Art lovers, those interested in contemporary culture and anyone wanting a different perspective on Trastevere.

Cooking classes with local chefs

Join a hands-on culinary workshop and uncover the secrets of authentic Roman cuisine — from rolling fresh pasta to perfecting time-honored desserts. Led by passionate local chefs, these classes offer more than just recipes; they’re an invitation to connect with the city through its flavors. It’s a deliciously memorable way to experience Rome from the inside out.

  • Suitable for: Food lovers, curious cooks and anyone looking to immerse themselves in Roman culture through its cuisine.

Tailored, private immersions

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Places to eat & drink in Trastevere

Antipasti. Photo: Giacomo Alonzi

In Trastevere, lunch typically starts around 12 pm, while dinner is usually served after 8 pm. Keep this in mind when planning meals, as some places may close in between.

Zia, via Goffredo Mameli, 45

A Michelin-starred gem, this restaurant offers seasonal, elegant and imaginative fine dining. Chef Antonio Ziantoni’s menu strikes a perfect balance between playfulness and sophistication, while the extensive wine list enhances the experience. Be sure to book in advance — this is a dining experience you won’t want to miss!

Glass Hostaria, Vicolo del Cinque, 58

Located in the heart of Trastevere, Glass Hostaria brings a Michelin-starred touch to contemporary Italian dining. Chef Cristina Bowerman’s innovative dishes are crafted from the freshest seasonal ingredients, offering a playful yet refined culinary experience. The modern design and intimate atmosphere make this an ideal spot for anyone seeking sophisticated dining with a creative twist and their six-course tasting menu at under €150 is exceptional value.

Ripa Place, via delgi Orti di Trastevere, 3

This restaurant inside Hotel Ripa Roma offers a modern, unfussy setting with a menu that blends Roman classics and international dishes. It’s approachable, well-executed food with just enough creativity to keep things interesting.

The real highlight is the team — friendly, attentive and genuinely welcoming. They make you feel at home whether you’re dining solo, as a couple or with colleagues. Ripa Place also caters for groups, making it a solid option for business dinners, team gatherings or casual celebrations.

Don’t miss the bar, either — perfect for grabbing a pre-dinner drink, a nightcap and everything in between. Whether you're staying at the hotel or just passing through Trastevere, Ripa Place is a reliable and welcoming spot for great food and excellent service and it’s one of my favorite places.

Enoteca Ferrara, Piazza Trilussa, 4

Enoteca Ferrara, located in Trastevere’s Piazza Trilussa, offers a versatile dining experience with something for everyone. The Restaurant serves refined Italian dishes using fresh, seasonal ingredients, while the Tavern offers a more casual setting with traditional Roman flavors. The Mescita wine bar, perfect for a laid-back evening, boasts an extensive wine list and light bites. While Enoteca Ferrara is ideal for groups, it also provides an intimate atmosphere for those looking to enjoy a more personal dining experience. You’ll find that you visit here more than once during your stay. I can’t get enough of this place.

Spirito di Vino, Via dei Genovesi, 31

In a beautifully restored 16th-century building, Spirito di Vino celebrates Roman tradition with a commitment to sustainability. Proudly part of the Presidio Slow Food Alliance, they serve only GMO-free ingredients and never fry their dishes. The menu showcases authentic Roman flavors, elevated by a respect for quality and nature, making it a must-visit for those who appreciate both exceptional food and sustainable practices. I highly recommend dining here, especially if you’re visiting the Saint Cecilia Basilica.

Tiberino, Via Ponte Quattro Capi, 17-18

Tiberino sits on the peaceful Isola Tiberina (Tiberina Island), offering a fresh, seasonal take on Roman and Mediterranean cuisine. The menu celebrates local ingredients prepared with simplicity and care, allowing the flavors to speak for themselves. Whether you’re dining inside or out on the riverside terrace, the atmosphere is effortlessly relaxed — perfect for a quiet meal or a casual gathering in one of Trastevere’s most scenic spots.

Beyond the main restaurant, there’s also a café, an ice cream parlour and a cocktail bar, so you’re covered from morning espresso to aperitivo hour. You’ll reach the island via Ponte Cestio, a short footbridge that’s a scenic little walk in itself. I love stopping by early for breakfast or winding down with a late afternoon spritz by the water.

il Ferro e il Fuoco, Via Garibaldi, 27

Set within the elegant Hotel Donna Camilla Savelli, this refined escape offers far more than just a well-crafted cocktail. Whether you’re seated in the leafy courtyard or surrounded by the Baroque beauty of the former convent, the setting feels serene and transportive.

The garden is perfect for a leisurely breakfast, a quiet lunch or an afternoon aperitif, surrounded by lush greenery and gentle charm. Come evening, Il Ferro e il Fuoco — the hotel’s main restaurant — serves a dinner menu that blends traditional Roman flavors with contemporary creativity, all crafted from seasonal ingredients.

Whether you’re sharing a romantic evening, winding down solo or hosting a discreet business meal, this is a place that feels both intimate and special. It’s a true hidden gem in Trastevere — and one I wholeheartedly recommend. It’s exquisite.

Peppo Al Cosimato, Via Natale del Grande, 9

Peppo al Cosimato is one of those places that quietly wins you over — unpretentious, full of heart and deeply rooted in Roman tradition. Located near the Mercato di San Cosimato, this lively spot is known for its thin-crust Roman-style pizzas, fresh seasonal toppings and generous portions.

The menu balances classics with creative twists, using ingredients sourced directly from the local market. Their Margherita di Bufala (my personal favorite as the mozzarella is so creamy), is a standout, as is any pizza topped with seasonal vegetables or house-cured meats. And if you’re not in the mood for pizza, the antipasti and pasta dishes — especially the carbonara — are just as satisfying. It’s relaxed, welcoming and consistently good — one to keep on your list!

Need to know

Trastevere is just a 30-minute drive from both Rome’s Fiumicino (FCO) and Ciampino (CIA) airports and is well-connected by public transportation, including buses and trams. You can easily reach other parts of Rome, but walking is often the best way to explore the charming, narrow streets of the neighborhood.

By law, visitors in Italy must always carry valid identification. While some shops may accept a copy, it’s best to have your actual passport on hand if you’re making purchases in stores — ideally kept secure in a money belt or travel pouch. A photocopy can be useful in case of loss or theft but may not be legally sufficient if requested by authorities.

While many restaurants and shops accept cards, it's always a good idea to carry cash, especially for smaller, family-owned spots. ATMs in Trastevere are often out of money, so it’s best to plan and withdraw cash before you head to the neighborhood.

Romans tend to eat their main meals later in the day, so if you prefer a quieter experience, consider dining outside peak hours. When entering shops or cafés, it’s customary to greet with a friendly “buongiorno” (good morning) or “buonasera” (good evening — typically from around 4 pm onward).

During summer, Trastevere can get quite busy with both locals and tourists, so visit early in the morning or later in the evening to experience it at a more relaxed pace. In winter, you’ll find fewer crowds and a more intimate atmosphere.

Advisor - Justina Pena Pan

Travel Advisor

Justina Pena Pan

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