Curator’s statement
I just returned from a perfect trip through Puglia’s whitewashed villages and stunning seaside beaches. With family roots in Calabria, southern Italy has always been on my bucket list. Known as the “heel of the boot” Puglia is one of the most authentic and charming destinations in Italy. I loved wandering the cobblestone streets, trying hand-made pastas at local trattorias, sipping espresso with locals, and relaxing on pristine white sand beaches. Puglia is spread out, so plan 7–10 days, especially if you want to explore the Salento region, which was my favorite. September was the perfect time to visit—warm enough to swim, no rain, and slightly fewer tourists.
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Things to do in Puglia

Spiaggia della Purità, Gallipoli
Puglia is full of beautiful towns, making a one-week itinerary a delightful challenge. Choose one base in the Valle d’Itria region, near Monopoli, where charming masserias abound, and another in the Salento region, in Gallipoli or Lecce, staying in a boutique hotel in the historic old town. Renting a car is the most flexible way to explore, and public parking is plentiful on the town outskirts.
Start your journey in Bari
Most people fly into Bari, and it’s worth spending at least one night in the historic old town before picking up your car. Wander the Strada delle Orecchiette to watch the nonne making pasta, admire the stunning white limestone basilica and cathedral, and tour the Castello Normanno-Svevo for a glimpse of Bari’s medieval past.
Wander the port of Monopoli
We spent a half-day exploring Monopoli’s charming old town, strolling the historic harbor filled with colorful fishing boats, and walking the fortified streets with stunning sea views. We were lucky to witness a wedding at the historic Basilica, beautifully adorned with flowers.
Boat the grottos of Pogliano a Mare
This stunning town is famous for Lama Monachile beach tucked between two cliffs. It deserves at least one full day to take a boat tour of the colorful sea caves, explore the hidden piazzas with ocean views, and if you are lucky (like we were) catch a breathtaking sunset over the cliffs.
Explore Trullis of Alberobello
The UNESCO World Heritage site is worth a tour to learn the history of these unique whitewashed stone huts with conical roofs that look straight out of a fairy tale. We took a small group walking tour, but e-bike tours are also great. Include a stop at nearby Loccorotondo, a charming village, with a circular old town, and stunning views of the Valle d’Itria.
Visit the “White City” of Ostuni
We spent half a day wandering Ostuni’s narrow, whitewashed streets, climbing to the cathedral for panoramic views, and exploring its piazzas, cafés, and artisan shops. If time is short, a tuk-tuk tour is a fun way to zip through the streets while local guides share the town’s rich history. Several Masserias in the area offer cheese-making and olive oil tours and tastings.
Stop in Lecce, aka Florence of the South
On our drive south, we stopped in Lecce to admire its stunning Baroque architecture, from the ornate Basilica di Santa Croce to the lively Piazza del Duomo. We wandered charming streets, explored artisan shops, and discovered the city’s unique papier-mâché art.
Swim & relax in Gallipoli
Our final stop was Gallipoli, at the southern tip of Puglia, with its historic old town perched on a small island connected to the mainland by a bridge. We loved wandering the cobblestone streets and enjoying fresh seafood and limoncello at cafés along its fortress walls. Our favorite day was spent at Spiaggia della Purità, a small sandy beach beneath the old town with warm, turquoise Ionian waters. Gallipoli felt like authentic Puglia, with lower prices and fewer tourists. We ran out of time, but had planned a half-day trip to the charming, baroque city of Nardò located 15 minutes from Gallipoli.
Places to eat & drink in Puglia

Grotta Palazzese—Polignano a Mare
Mint Cucina Fresca—Polignano a Mare: One of our favorite meals was at this intimate, artistic bistro, known for its fresh, creative dishes made from organic, local ingredients. The chef personally greets each guest, but be sure to make reservations at least a week in advance.
Grotta Palazzese—Polignano a Mare: The famous cave restaurant in Polignano a Mare is Grotta Palazzese, renowned for its breathtaking setting inside a natural limestone cave overlooking the Adriatic Sea. It offers a very unique dining experience, but is pricey, requires reservations and only offers prix-fixe menus.
EVO Ristorante—Alberobello: Just outside the Trulli zone, EVO serves modern takes on Apulian classics with beautiful plating and a carefully curated wine list. Stylish yet unpretentious, it’s a must-visit for food lovers.
La Taverna della Gelosia—Ostuni: Situated in the historic center of Ostuni, shaded by bougainvillea, wisteria, and pink pepper trees with lovely views. The restaurant blends Apulian tradition and innovation: classic local dishes with creative touches and high presentation.
Amu Fish Restaurant—Gallipoli: Offers a refined seafood dining experience with a stunning seaside view. The restaurant boasts an elegant terrace adorned with lanterns, providing a romantic ambiance perfect for sunset dining as long as the weather is good.
Terrazza Laurus—Gallipoli: Located atop Palazzo Presta, the rooftop terrace offers an unforgettable experience with exceptional cocktails and a chic ambiance. The tapas-style menu features innovative dishes like monkfish polpette, popcorn tempura prawns, and salmon with guacamole tacos. We loved the hotel, and the rooftop bar was the perfect way to end the evening.
Need to know
When to go: May through mid-June or September through mid-October for best weather and smaller crowds.
Timing: Shops and businesses typically close from 1 pm to 4 pm for lunch and siesta, so the best time to visit is in the morning or late afternoon, when they’re lively with local energy.
Driving: Watch out for ZTLs (limited traffic zones) in the historic centers monitored by cameras—entering without a permit will result in an automatic fine to your rental car company.

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Kristine Duffy

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