Norway Is for Festive Season Too

Put on the winter gear and head out for a morning snowshoe tour in Oslomarka (the forest area around Oslo). An English-speaking guide will meet you in the center of Oslo and take you via public transit (a very scenic trip up the hills and to the station at the top with amazing views down over the city). You’ll strap on some snowshoes and take a leisurely walk through the woods, past cross-country skiers and around a lake. And just when you need a warmup, they’ll pour you some hot chocolate.

When you get back to Oslo city center, it’s a good time to walk around the contemporary Operastranda (Oslo Opera House) on the harbor. Due to the snow and ice, you may not be able to head to the slanted roof, but it’s still an architectural marvel to enjoy from the ground. Then, take in the Munchmuseet, dedicated to Edvard Munch’s art. You can see versions of The Scream here, but you’ll have to save time for the National Museum if you want to see the original.

The first evening is a good time to head to Spikersupp for Jul i Vinterland, the Christmas market. Wander and shop, drink gløgg, ice skate, and ride the Ferris wheel (it’s worth it to splurge for the express entry and the cushioned seats). This market typically runs from late November into early January each year.

Spend the daylight hours in two museums that highlight Norway’s folk and nautical history. That may not sound cool, but take my word for it, they are—but leave the thermals on because the first museum is an outdoor history museum. Wander through time from the Middle Ages to present and through over 160 different structures that represent all regions of the country in the open air Norsk Folkemuseum. Then, warm up at the Fram Museum, where you’ll learn about polar exploration and get to board a giant replica of the ship made famous by Roald Amundsen, the Fram—the building was designed around it.

Head over to the Grünerløkka to find dinner with a more neighborhood vibe, maybe at Delicatessen (for Spanish tapas) or Villa Paradiso (for brick-oven pizza). Keep your eyes out for stolpersteine (stumbling stones), as this was a neighborhood where many Jewish families lived before World War II.

After dinner, get into the holiday spirit with some jazz and Christmas tunes at the Amerikalinjen Hotel. Make sure to grab your tickets/table in advance for their holiday shows.

You don’t have to be a history buff to appreciate the Nobel Peace Center, both inside and out. It’s a great museum to learn as much or as little as you want about all the past Nobel Prize winners, their place in time, and their contribution to world peace. There are special rotating exhibits as well.

Take a stroll along the water, past other important landmarks (stop to see The Scream at the National Museum), and stop for lunch at the Vippa Food Hall.

Spend your last night in Oslo seeing the sculptures at Ekebergparken Sculpture Park with a guided flashlight tour of one of the top five sculpture parks in the world (make sure to bundle up). You’ll see pieces from Rodin, Louise Bourgeois, and so many more. The tour ends with a glass of champagne inside the James Turrell installation—it really is a one-of-a-kind art experience. And the nighttime views over Oslo are icing on top. Make sure to book in advance as the tour isn’t offered every evening.

Take the train to Myrdal, where you’ll switch to the historic Flåm Railway, one of the world’s steepest stretches of standard gauge line. You’ll have so many panoramic views out of the window, you won’t want to look away—so make sure to get your seats early. It’s a popular route, even in the winter, so book early.

The train ends in the very, very small town of Flåm, where most only stay for a few hours, but I suggest you book overnight accommodation so that you can experience the remoteness of the area and book an appointment at the floating sauna.

To get to Bergen, you can retrace your steps back to Myrdal to catch the train onto Bergen, or take a boat through the fjords. We had to do an extra night in Sogndal to make the boat ride work, so there’s a little bit of logistical planning that’s needed in the winter.

Either way, you should arrive a day or two later in Bergen, close to lunchtime. Since it’s on the coast, I recommend trying the sushi from one of the restaurants or stands at the picturesque Bergen Fish Market.

In the afternoon, take the Fløibanen funicular up to Mount Fløyen to enjoy epic views of the city. There are trails at the top to stroll along and grab a warm drink at the café when you get cold. Since Bergen is on the coast and because it’s winter, you’ll likely encounter some rain or snow, so make sure you have an umbrella and waterproof parka or poncho. Don’t skip the troll forest, which is right behind the café.

Bryggen (a UNESCO World Heritage Site) is the historic heart of modern Bergen and one of North Europe’s oldest ports. You’ll recognize the colorful wooden houses. Fuel up with a skilingsbolle (cinnamon bun) from Baker Brun (the local favorite). Take your time stopping at shops and snapping photos. Don’t miss the Telefon library as you walk by the harbor. Take lunch (hit the fish soup) at Bryggeloftet, the oldest restaurant in Bergen—family owned since 1910.

Head across town to Festplassen for Bergen’s version of the Christmas market. It may feel repetitive, but it’s the holidays, so you can never celebrate them too much. And speaking of more festive spots, plan to check out Pepperkakebyen. Every year, school kids make gingerbread homes and buildings to create the world’s largest gingerbread town. The location changes yearly, so make sure to visit the website for details.

Like Oslo, Bergen has several wonderful museums. As a seaport, the National Aquarium is top-notch, with several exhibits focusing on Norwegian marine life, but it also has crowd pleasers like penguins, otters, and sea lions. Or, maybe you didn’t get enough at the open-air museum in Oslo and want to check out the Bergen version at Gamle Bergen Museum.

Spend the afternoon meandering around the cobbled streets and hills of Klosterstat and Nordnes. The residential neighborhoods are full of colorful houses, beautiful buildings, and charming parks and pocket squares.

Toast to celebrate your last night in Bergen, where there is a great local cocktail and wine bar scene. Visit one or all of these spots: Pergola Mat & Vinbar, No Stress (try the Lemon Pie-Tini), Pinnochio, or Lampemannen Bar.