An Italian Riviera Town for Foodies & Focaccia Lovers

Take a focaccia to the beach. Liguria is the birthplace of focaccia, so it only feels right to enjoy a slice of fresh bread, made that morning, while soaking in the Ligurian sun. The public beach is right in front of my favorite Focaccieria Revello, easily accessible when you need to go back for seconds.

Walk a half-day trek through the hills to Punta Chiappa, a rocky cliff swimming spot. The path is sharply uphill to San Rocco and winds through backyard olive groves and tiny villages. Walk in the morning for ideal shadiness and stop in San Rocco for lunch on the way back. Expect one and a half hours each way.

Walk a longer trek to San Fruttuoso, a small village with a Benedictine monastery, accessible only on foot or by boat. This trek shares the same uphill journey to San Rocco from Camogli and then breaks off into an inland trail or a more challenging coastal trail. Expect at least two hours either way. Start early and bring a picnic or enjoy pesto pasta at one of the few restaurants in San Fruttuoso. Return by foot or by ferry, which doesn’t run very late, so be sure to check the schedule.

Enjoy a sunset aperitivo on the promenade. Camogli faces west, with an unbeatable view of the sunset next to the church’s clock tower. The promenade is lined with aperitivo bars—slip in wherever you can get the best view, and slow down for the evening.

Focacceria Revello is well-known for a variety of high-quality focaccia by the beach. A line builds around lunchtime, but it moves quickly and is well worth it. Focaccia Camogliese is the local specialty, of course, but don’t miss Focaccia di Recco, a wildly different bread from just the next village over. It is a much thinner, cracker-like version of the bread, filled with melty, gooey cheese.

Il Bricco Caffè is the perfect marriage of classic Italian espresso drinks with sweet and unique flavors. The Pur i Buoni is flavored with orange and flowers and is sweet without being cloying like other mixed coffee drinks. On the street above the beach, it bustles with just as many locals as tourists early in the morning.

Tucca e Leva is in the hills above Camogli, in San Recco, about a 30-minute trek uphill (including many stairs). Homemade mandilli al pesto, daily specials, and crispy focaccine are stars of the simple, local menu.

La Bossa di Mario is a wine cave with exceptional local cuisine. The wine selection includes local and international offerings. The fried anchovies are a delightful starter, crusty and salty like they have just been pulled from the sea. Reservations are recommended during peak season.

Fermento is a uniquely modern restaurant for the small town, with a menu not divided by antipasti, primi, secondi, and so on, but by fish, meat, and vegetables. Portions are small and ideal for sharing a few things.

Cooperative Pescatori Pesce Pazzo is a literal boat parked in the harbor, where you can buy cones of fritto misto directly from the pescatori who caught it themselves. Opening hours are variable, depending on the catch, so don’t count on a meal here. However, if you do find them operating, you are in for a unique experience.

Latterie 1978 offers artisanal gelato at the end of the harbor. The amarena variegato flavor (sweet-and-sour cherry swirled in cream) has whole pieces of bright cherries and hits the spot on a sticky, sunny day.

Bar Aguria is the beachside spot for granita, a semi-frozen dessert—coarser than sorbet or gelato—served with a spoon and a straw because of how quickly it melts. Fruit flavors like lemon and strawberry are especially popular, but my favorite here is the rich, nutty mandorle (almond) granita.