A Dolomites Adventure: Where Michelin Stars Meet Mountain Peaks

The Great Ladin Valleys Traverse

This multi-day hiking adventure takes you through the heart of Ladin culture, a unique ethnic and linguistic minority that has inhabited these valleys for over a millennium. The Ladin language—descended from Latin mixed with Celtic and Germanic influences—is still spoken daily, a living connection to the Roman Empire that refuses to fade into museum exhibits.

Highlights along the route:

• Puez-Odle Natural Park: The dramatic Odle mountain group (meaning "needles" in Ladin) reveals millions of years of geological history through visible rock strata. In 1968, erosion exposed skeletal fragments of an Ichthyosaurus—a porpoise-shaped marine reptile—proving these mountains once formed an ancient seabed.

• Sassolungo-Sassopiatto Circuit: High-altitude traverse around two iconic massifs through the Città dei Sassi (City of Rocks), an otherworldly boulder field. Summer meadows explode with wildflowers and marmots whistle from rocky outcrops. Spend the night at Rifugio Sassopiatto at 2,300 meters for an authentic mountain hut experience and witness the Enrosadira—when pale Dolomite limestone turns brilliant pink and red at sunset.

• Catinaccio/Rosengarten Massif: This challenging traverse rewards experienced hikers with Rifugio Bergamo, the oldest mountain shelter in the area (and my favorite of our trip), perched dramatically in a rocky valley. According to Ladin folklore, the Rosengarten was once a real garden belonging to the dwarf king Laurin. When captured, he cursed the roses so they could never be seen by day or night—but he forgot twilight, which is why the mountains still glow pink at dawn and dusk.

• The Viel del Pan: This spectacular trail was once used by flour merchants from Belluno as a shortcut to the Ladin valleys for bartering goods. During WWI, it served as the demarcation line between Italy and the Austro-Hungarian Empire. Austrian troops excavated the ingenious "City of Ice," a 12-kilometer network of tunnels deep inside the Marmolada glacier, to shelter soldiers. The path offers unparalleled views of the Marmolada at 3,342 meters, the "Queen of the Dolomites."

The food alone justifies the journey. Mountain rifugi serve hearty regional dishes—canederli (bread dumplings), kaiserschmarrn (shredded pancake), wild game, speck (smoked ham)—made from local ingredients. Then, you return to hotels with Michelin-starred restaurants and wine cellars that make oenophiles weep with joy.

Alto Adige produces exceptional Gewürztraminer, Pinot Bianco, and Lagrein. Both Grödnerhof and La Perla offer cellar tours and tastings that make excellent rainy-day activities.

Fine dining & Michelin-starred

• Anna Stuben at Hotel Gardena Grödnerhof, Ortisei
  Chef Reimund Brunner's one Michelin-starred restaurant serves forest-to-table cuisine using wild herbs, foraged mushrooms, and local game. The tasting menus change with the seasons and showcase the precision of modern Alpine cooking. The wine cellar is exceptional.

• La Stüa de Michil at Hotel La Perla, Corvara
  This one Michelin-starred restaurant offers refined takes on mountain cuisine in an elegant setting. The presentation is artistic without being fussy, and the 28,000-bottle wine cellar provides plenty of pairing options. Reserve well in advance.

• Albergo at Hotel La Perla, Corvara
  The original hotel building houses this more casual dining room that feels like stepping into Dolomites history. The atmosphere is warmer and less formal than La Stüa de Michil, with traditional Ladin and Tyrolean dishes prepared beautifully. The menu focuses on regional classics—think perfectly executed canederli, game dishes, and house-made pastas. Still has access to that remarkable wine cellar. This is the place locals go for special occasions.

• St. Hubertus at Rosa Alpina, San Cassiano
  Three Michelin stars under chef Norbert Niederkofler, who pioneered the "Cook the Mountain" philosophy using only ingredients from the surrounding region. This is destination dining that draws food lovers from across Europe. Expensive and worth every euro.

• Restaurant de Len at HOTEL de LEN, Cortina d'Ampezzo
  Modern mountain dining with a Michelin Guide mention. The farm-to-table menu is seasonal and refined, featuring locally sourced meats, fresh pastas, and regional produce presented with artistic flair. Good for a special dinner after exploring Cortina's town center.

Traditional mountain huts (rifugi)

• Baita Sofie Hütte, above Seceda
  At over 2,400 meters, this mountaintop refuge offers traditional fare—goulash, dumplings, grilled sausages—with panoramic views that stop you mid-bite. Accessible via cable car or hiking. Perfect lunch stop after a morning on the ridgeline.

• Alpina Chalet, Alpe di Siusi
  Traditional South Tyrolean comfort food in a warm, rustic setting. Handmade dumplings, rich polenta dishes, tender venison, homemade apple strudel and kaiserschmarrn. During ski season, it transforms into a popular après-ski spot with a DJ. The kind of place you linger with wine in hand, watching light change on the peaks.

• Rifugio Emilio Comici, Sella Pass
  Perched at 2,153 meters with dramatic views of the Sassolungo massif. The food is straightforward mountain fare done well—polenta, speck platters, hearty soups. The location and atmosphere make it memorable.

Casual & family-friendly

• Restaurant Pizzeria Al Passetto, Cortina d'Ampezzo
  A hidden gem for celiacs and gluten-sensitive travelers. They take cross-contamination seriously and serve excellent gluten-free pizza with crispy thin crusts and traditional toppings. They also offer regular pasta and pizza, so there's something for everyone. Casual, welcoming atmosphere.

• Malga Fane, Valles
  Remote mountain dairy farm accessible by hiking or shuttle. They serve simple, exceptional food made from what they produce on site—fresh cheese, butter, yogurt, grilled meats. The setting in a high Alpine meadow surrounded by peaks is unforgettable. Cash only.

• Ütia de Göma, Val Badia
  Traditional Ladin cuisine in a cozy mountain hut atmosphere. Known for excellent canederli (bread dumplings) and game dishes. The restaurant maintains authentic recipes passed down through generations. Good wine list featuring Alto Adige producers.