Curator’s statement
The Louvre is sensational. It really is. I’ve got nothing against it. But it’s big. And overwhelming. And, if you want to see every room, it’ll easily gobble up at least one whole day of your precious Paris time. If you’re only in Paris for a few days—a city with so much art of every format coming at you (the smells wafting out of restaurants on Boulevard Saint-Germain, the musicians playing guitar in Le Marais, the stunning architecture everywhere, the street artists in Montmarte, the flavors of the brasseries), it’s just a bit of a shame to spend so much time in one place. I recommend a whole day (or even two or three) at the Louvre if you’re in Paris for two weeks or more. If you’re in Paris for a shorter stay, here are nine smaller, cuter museums and attractions for visitors with time constraints.
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Things to do in Paris
Musée Carnavalet
Musée Carnavalet (23 Rue de Sévigné) is a gorgeous museum, housed in a former hotel, dedicated to the history of this splendid city. Learn everything about how this town was built and how it’s evolved right up to the present day.
Nearby, you’ll find the Musee National Picasso (5 Rue de Thorigny), an entire museum dedicated to the work of non-French artist Pablo Picasso.
In the very same neighborhood, you’ll also find the Maison Européenne de la Photographie (5/7 Rue de Fourcy), an excellent collection of photography from around the world.
It’s a bit of a trek away from the center of town, but the La Cinémathèque Française (51 Rue de Bercy), housed in a trippy Frank Gehry-designed building, is well worth a visit. It’s both a museum and movie theater covering the great history of French film.
Also on the outskirts is the Musee de la Musique (221 Avenue Jean Jaurès), a museum exhibiting musical instruments throughout history and honoring French composers and musicians.
Pop music fans should not miss Maison Gainsbourg (14 Rue de Verneuil) and the Serge Gainsbourg House across the street for an homage to the lives of iconic pop star Serge Gainsbourg and model/pop star Jane Birkin. Be sure to get tickets in advance. The museum is small and popular.
It’s not a museum, but right in the center of town you have Palais Garnier (Pl. de l’Opéra), Paris’ historic opera house and one of my favorite structures in the whole city. Ideally, go to see a concert, opera, or ballet, but if you can’t make it to one of those, they’ll let you in just to gawk at the architecture too.
My favorite non-Notre-Dame and non-Sacré-Coeur church in Paris is the Église Saint-Étienne-du-Mont (1 Place Sainte-Geneviève). With its rood screen and stone lace spiral stairways (carved from limestone), this Catholic church is in a class by itself.
A second Paris museum celebrating Spanish artist, the Dali Paris boasts a fine collection of Salvador Dali sculptures, drawings, paintings, and even short films. The cave-like lower lever makes it a fittingly surreal venue to appreciate this work.
Places to eat & drink in Paris
Fromagerie Laurent Dubois
What can I say about food in Paris that you don’t already know? Absolutely nothing. It’s easy to Google Paris’ many Michelin-starred restaurants. It’s a cinch to come across a phenomenal 5-course gourmet meal at a white-tablecloth bistro. Beautiful rooftop restaurants with a view of the Eiffel Tower? Dime a dozen. Wine bars? Trillions. You are not running out of amazing culinary options in this city. But, if you’re like me, there is just nothing better than a really good piece of French bread and a really good piece of French cheese. Fancypants expensive restaurants be damned. I’ll take the simple pleasures of French bread and cheese for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. The thing to do in Paris is stop at a great bakery like Land & Monkeys (2 Rue de Turenne) and fine cheese shop like Fromagerie Laurent Dubois (97–99 Rue Saint-Antoine), get what you need for a little sandwich, make your way to the Seine or Jardin du Luxembourg, sit, enjoy your surroundings, and let your tastebuds be transported to another stratosphere.
Need to know
Language basics:
Hello = Bonjour
Goodbye = Au revoir
Please = S’il vous plaît
Thank you = Merci
Where’s the bathroom? = Où sont les toilettes?
How much is it? = Combien ça coûte?
Some Paris movies and music:
Movie binge list: Breathless, Amelie, Last Tango In Paris, Before Sunset, Charade, Paris Je T’aime, The Dreamers
Music playlist: “La Vie En Rose” Edith Piaf, “La Boheme” Charles Aznavour, “Je T’aime Moi Non Plus” Serge Gainsbourg, “Quelqu’un M’a Dit” Carla Bruni, “Les Moulins De Mon Coeur” Juliette Armanet, “Derniere Danse” Indila, “La Foule” Edith Piaf
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Eva Dilmanian
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