Budapest with Kids: A 4-Day Family Adventure

We landed in Budapest mid-morning and took the 100E bus into the city center, which takes about 40 minutes. You can buy tickets directly on the bus using contactless payment. We started at the airport (Liszt Ferenc Airport Terminal 2) and got off at the last stop (Deák Ferenc tér), then walked to our hotel, Mamaison Hotel Andrássy Budapest.

We loved this hotel because it had two bedrooms—a nice change for a family of four. The location made it easy to get around to most major sights, and the hotel was clean and comfortable. There's also a playground right next to the hotel that the kids loved!

Note: The 100E bus costs 2,500 HUF (around $7.50) per person, and everyone needs a ticket. For a family of four, that's about $30. Check Bolt or Uber as the price might be similar and quicker.

We were able to check into our room early, which is always nice. We dropped our bags and headed out to explore.

Buda Castle & Fisherman's Bastion

Budapest has so many fun transportation options, which the kids love! We started by taking the funicular up to Buda Castle, then we explored the castle grounds and enjoyed panoramic views.

Next, we walked toward Matthias Church (Church of Our Lady), famous for its colorful roof tiles. Before we got there, we stopped for a famous chimney cake and a lángos at the park across the street. There are a few food stands and some tables, and we were lucky enough to be serenaded by a musician singing and playing nearby. Once we'd refueled, we walked around Fisherman's Bastion to enjoy the views, then headed back to the funicular to ride it down to the promenade.

Dinner & dessert

At this point, it was time for dinner, so we walked to a local recommendation, Menza. It's best to have a reservation, but we didn't, so we waited for a table at the bar. We enjoyed a traditional Hungarian meal, then walked back to the hotel for a good night's sleep—but not before stopping at Gelarto Rosa for their famous flower-shaped gelato.

Important: Budapest public transportation

Before we get into day two, let's talk about transportation in Budapest. Warning! Do not get on any public transportation until you've figured out tickets. It's not straightforward, and we almost got fined. Inspectors constantly check tickets, and being a tourist doesn't get you out of it.

You have a few options, and the best thing to do is find a customer service center so they can help you understand what's best for your situation and how to validate your tickets.

We chose not to get the Budapest Card, but if you think you might take advantage of the discounts, it could be a good option for you.

We bought a pack of 10 single tickets. I used the BudapestGO app and validated four tickets every time we took a journey. I don't necessarily recommend this option! I think the 24-hour travel card would have been far easier, even if it cost more. Again, go to a customer service center to understand your options.

Margaret Island

We decided to head to Margaret Island for playgrounds, bike rides, and thermal baths. We took the tram and then walked to the island. First stop: playground! My kids love exploring playgrounds in new places, and they've rarely disappointed us in Europe. Another great thing to do on Margaret Island is rent a bike and explore the island that way. There are bike rental options at either end of the island.

As is typical when traveling with kids, there are always food breaks. We settled on Hippie Island, which was one of the few places open. The food was just okay, but it was a nice place to warm up, rest our legs, get some food and caffeine, and play a game of Uno.

Platinus Strand

After lunch, we headed to Platinus Strand. Since we went in October, not all thermal baths were open to kids. Reflecting back, I probably would have skipped the thermal baths in the off-season. During summer, the kids would have had a blast, but in October, most of the fun kid pools were closed.

Evening: Sushi & river cruise

After the baths, it was time to eat again, so we took public transportation to a delicious sushi restaurant we found, Sushi Sei. It was worth the journey to get there. Japanese food is one of our family favorites, and we try to mix up local cuisine with things the kids are familiar with. We went for an early meal, then took the tram back to Chain Bridge and enjoyed the city lights at night.

We decided this was a good night to take a Danube River cruise. I tend to prefer smaller river cruises, but we were booking last minute, so we chose one at a time that worked and went for it. It was as expected—we were there for the sights, and we enjoyed those.

Our first stop was a crepe shop the kids had been eyeing. Not sure if it was breakfast or dessert, but so be it on vacation! Then we went to the playground by the hotel and, after they got some energy out, we headed to Central Market Hall via the pedestrian shopping street, Váci utca.

After saying no to a million chimney cake shops (because they'd just had dessert/breakfast), we finally made it to Central Market Hall. We explored the stalls and grabbed a bite to eat. The kids loved the hot dogs, which are inserted into a baguette rather than a standard, pre-sliced bun.

Gellért Hill Playground

Next, we headed to a playground I couldn't wait to show them: Gellérthegyi Playground with its amazing slides. The kids could have spent hours here—and they did—but eventually we forced them away from the slides for a hike to the top of the hill. They complained, they whined, but I know when they got to the top they enjoyed it.

Evening: Kiosk & Ikono

After we hiked back down, we headed to the hotel to freshen up for dinner. We had a delicious meal at Kiosk (reservations recommended), then headed to the immersive museum Ikono. There isn't much to do for kids at night, and I saw this activity when we were walking down Váci utca earlier. If I was on my own as an adult, I wouldn't do it, but the kids really enjoyed it and we enjoyed spending time together as a family.

After breakfast at the hotel, we headed out for the roughly 45-minute journey to reach the Budapest Children's Railway. The Children's Railway is one of Budapest's most unique attractions—the railway is actually run by children! Hiking, playgrounds, food stands, and other attractions make this a great day out.

Getting there

Check the timetables, but for us, all trains were leaving at 10 past the hour. We took public transport to Hűvösvölgy station, and you buy tickets when you get there. There are toilets, food, and coffee available, so if you arrive early, no problem! I'd read you needed cash, which was a hassle for me to get, but in the end they did accept credit cards. That said, cash is always fun for kids so they can see different currencies and practice their counting and math.

There's so much to do—you can easily spend a whole day here. If you're planning to stay all day, I'd buy the unlimited family ticket.

János-hegy Station & Elizabeth Lookout Tower

We ended up getting off at János-hegy station, which is right by Elizabeth Lookout Tower—the highest point in Budapest—and surrounded by forest trails, snack stands, and a playground where kids can run and explore safely. We had a snack, hiked up the tower, then realized we had to catch the Libegő Chairlift before it stops at 4 pm in late October. We took the calm, scenic 15-minute ride over the forest back down the mountain. Another good reason to have the travel card: my cell service wasn't working, so I had issues accessing my digital ticket to get back on the bus.

If we'd had more time, we would have explored the animal park and more playgrounds, and might have even taken the train to Csillebérc station to ride the Cogwheel Railway. See—so many transportation options!

City Park Playground

I had one more park planned for the girls, and since we were leaving the next morning, we had to squeeze this one in. In late October, it gets dark early, but we took the long (about an hour) bus ride to City Park. I knew it was going to be good, but it was so much better than I expected.

We could have spent all day here too, but, alas, we stayed until it closed at 7 pm, then went for our last meal.

Final dinner

I really wanted to try another restaurant, so we took a Bolt taxi to Twentysix, a cool plant-filled Mediterranean restaurant. Not as kid-friendly, but I wanted a good meal. I enjoyed my food and the ambiance, but at the end of the day I remembered why I don't go to nice restaurants with kids. They only ate bread and pasta, and on the way home they stopped for a slice of pizza.

We let them get one last chimney cake before we headed back to pack our bags for departure the next day.

Note: I didn't get to go to Mazel Tov while we were there, but I've heard amazing things about it, so try to get reservations if you can!