Ski Zermatt: Where Alpine Adventure Meets Quiet Luxury

Getting to Zermatt is part of the magic. I took the train from Zürich (Geneva’s also a great option) and, honestly, I’ve never seen landscapes quite like this. Lakes, mountains, alpine meadows—it’s like watching Switzerland show off.

Once you arrive, don’t expect the hum of engines—Zermatt is completely car-free. Electric taxis met me at the station and guided me to my hotel. (Pro tip: Request a taxi in advance if you’re arriving with luggage.)

After checking in and unpacking, I wandered down the main street and stopped for a cozy late lunch at Le Petit Royal. Their hot chocolate is pure heaven: thick, dark, and topped with clouds of whipped cream. I could’ve stayed there all day watching the snow fall, but the ski gear was calling. There are plenty of stylish shops just steps away for rentals.

Dinner was the perfect Swiss welcome: bubbling fondue at saycheese!, tucked inside the Grand Hotel Zermatterhof. I ended the evening just upstairs at Stars Bar, sipping a Negroni while a pianist played. The vacation had officially begun.

I’m always up early on ski days, but today was something special—my first run in Zermatt, with the Matterhorn watching over me.

I headed to the Sunnegga-Rothorn area, which I loved for its gentle blues and wide, sunny reds—perfect for a warm-up day. But it’s the views that stayed with me. Every time I turned a corner, there it was: that perfect, pyramid-shaped peak.

Lunch was a highlight: Chez Vrony is one of my all-time favorites. It’s family run, effortlessly stylish, and the terrace views are unreal. I had the famous veal burger and a glass of wine, and I didn’t want to leave. (Definitely book ahead—this place fills up fast.)

After skiing, I couldn’t resist stopping by the Champagne Bar—it’s basically a party in the snow with music, bubbles, and deck chairs. For something more refined, CERVO's après-ski terrace is just steps away, with signature cocktails and firepits.

Today was all about the big adventure: skiing to Italy. I took the Matterhorn Glacier Paradise lift—Europe’s highest cable car—and crossed over to Cervinia. Make sure the weather is good—high winds can close the crossing (I checked the night before, just to be safe).

Cervinia’s vibe is a bit more relaxed, with long, cruisy runs and unbeatable food. I stopped at Baita Cretaz for lunch: wood-fired pizza, an Aperol spritz, and that classic Italian hospitality. There’s something so indulgent about eating this well mid-ski.

By afternoon, I made my way back to Zermatt just before the lifts closed. That night, I dressed up for dinner at After Seven, a Michelin-starred spot with a creative tasting menu that’s as fun as it is delicious. Afterward, I took the elevator down to Vernissage, a stylish lounge with live music and moody lighting. It felt like stumbling into a secret after-party.

After two full days of skiing, I needed a little reset, so I booked a spa day at Riffelalp Resort, perched high above town with the most breathtaking views.

I spent the morning floating in their outdoor pool, surrounded by snow and steam, sipping herbal tea between sauna sessions. I also treated myself to a massage using alpine botanicals—it was hands down one of the most relaxing spa experiences I’ve had.

Back in town, I spent the afternoon meandering through Zermatt’s charming streets. I always stop at Fuchs Bakery—the truffles and handmade chocolates are incredible, and I never leave without a few chocolate Matterhorns to take home.

Dinner that night was at Grill Le Cervin, a cozy spot for traditional Swiss fare. The hot stone grill is fun, interactive, and perfect for a slow, savory evening.

I couldn’t leave Zermatt without skiing the Gornergrat side. I took the cogwheel train from town—it’s slow, scenic, and every minute is worth it.

The views from the top are jaw-dropping: you can see 29 peaks over 4,000 meters. I spent the day weaving through powdery runs, stopping mid-mountain for lunch at Iglu-Dorf—yes, an actual igloo restaurant. It’s whimsical, icy-cool, and unexpectedly cozy. Book a table in advance—it’s popular for good reason.

After skiing, I returned my gear and prepped for my last evening. I chose Marmo for dinner—a chic, modern spot with a laid-back vibe. Thursday night is schnitzel night (don’t miss it), and afterward I sledded back into town. Yes, sledded. Marmo can reserve sleds for you in advance.

My final morning came too quickly. I took one last stroll through town, coffee in hand, and soaked in the calm, snow-covered quiet that makes Zermatt so special.

Then it was time to catch the train—reliable, smooth, and just as scenic on the way out. I had booked my return to Geneva in advance—(tip: you’ll save a little by prebooking)—and as I watched the mountains fade behind me, I already knew I’d be back.

Zermatt has a way of lingering with you long after the snow has melted and the suitcases are unpacked. If you’re dreaming of alpine charm, world-class skiing, and quiet luxury, this little village at the foot of the Matterhorn might just steal your heart, too.