Insider's Saigon
Curated By
Tim Russell
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Ho Chi Minh City
City Travel
Food & Wine
Couples Travel
Sightseeing
Entertainment
Local Food
Curator’s statement
Vietnam's southern metropolis is hot, chaotic, confusing, dizzying...and a whole load of fun. I lived there for over a decade and know the city intimately, from its mainstream tourist sites — the War Remnants Museum, Notre Dame Cathedral, the Post Office — to its little known alleyways, street food joints, hidden away bars and other off-the-beaten-track spots. Join me as we explore one of Asia's most exciting cities.
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Where to stay in Saigon
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Things to do in Saigon
SCOOTER TOUR
You can’t fully experience life in Saigon from the inside of a car or tour bus. The only way to fully immerse yourself in the city is to gird your loins, put on a helmet and jump on the back of a scooter with an experienced driver/guide.
MAGICAL MARKETS
Ben Thanh Market is one of the city’s icons, but it’s not the only market in Saigon. Ba Chieu Market is a huge wet market where the locals shop, eat and gossip, while the historic Binh Tay Market is the heart of the city’s Chinatown.
VESTIGES OF WAR
While modern Saigonese people rarely talk — or even think — about the war, its remnants are all around the city. Be sure to visit the disturbing but essential War Remnants Museum, as well as Dan Sinh army surplus market, the Reunification Palace and the numerous wartime bunkers dotted across the city.
MORNING EXERCISE
Saigon gets up early, and if you head to Tao Dan Park as the sun rises, you’ll see the locals doing Tai Chi, badminton, shuttlecock and a lot more. Have a coffee at the nearby “bird cafe” to see locals airing and showing off their prized pet birds.
CHINATOWN
Yes, Saigon has a Chinatown. Once a city in its own right, Cholon is now part of the HCMC metropolis but retains much of its own character, with narrow alleyways, historic pagodas and of course, plenty of great Chinese food.
STREET FOOD TOUR
Street food is nothing to be scared of, but it can be a confusing world to negotiate, so taking a street food tour — ideally on the back of a scooter — is a great introduction to the Vietnamese way of dining.
NGUYEN HUE WALKING STREET
Head down to central Nguyen Hue Street after dark and throw yourself into the colorful crowds, where you can mingle with balloon sellers, street performers, snake handlers and Vietnamese families out for the evening.
PHOTOGRAPHY TOUR
With everything happening on the streets, Saigon is one of the world’s great photography cities. Book a local photographer and be taken deep into the city’s picturesque alleyways where you can meet and photograph some amazing characters.
HO CHI MINH ALE TRAIL
Saigon is arguably the craft beer capital of Asia, with numerous microbreweries producing some fantastic brews. Several of them have collaborated to form the Ho Chi Minh Ale Trail, a walking route taking in eight breweries. Complete the set to get a free t-shirt!
Places to eat & drink in Saigon
HONG HAI SEAFOOD
A Saigon institution, this mid-range seafood joint has been serving up fresh seafood, fish and shellfish for decades now, and offers great dishes in a typically lively Vietnamese ambience.
LE JARDIN
Located in the gardens of the French Cultural Centre, this authentic French bistro offers classic French dishes at prices that will give you a very pleasant surprise. The cheapest steak-frites in Asia? Very possible.
OC DAO
If there’s one food that is very typically Saigonese, it’s oc — shellfish and snails eaten on the street, perched on a tiny plastic stool, washed down with cheap local beer. It’s THE quintessential Saigon dining experience, and Oc Dao is the best place to try it.
BANH XEO 46A
Banh xeo, a crispy pancake stuffed with pork, shrimp and beansprouts (think Vietnamese tacos), is one of the most popular dishes in the South, and 46A is the place to try it. You’re not here for the surroundings, which are basic at best — you’re here for one dish done right.
PHO QUYNH
There are hundreds, maybe thousands, of joints serving up Vietnam’s national dish in Saigon, and picking the best is impossible. Pho Quynh is central, hygienic, lively, and their pho is among the best I’ve tried. But really, every street has a pho stall worth trying.
BANH MI HUYNH HOA
Like pho, you’ll find great banh mi — Vietnamese baguette sandwiches stuffed with goodies such as roast pork, grilled chicken, pickles, chillis, pate, egg and more — on every street. I’ve eaten at so many different places I can’t remember them all, but Huynh Hoa seems to be a local favorite.
QUAN UT UT
A temple to the humble pig, Quan Ut Ut offers US-style barbecue and great craft brews in a very Vietnamese setting. The owners have pitched it right in the sweet spot where comfort food and wacky experimentation meet, and the food is delicious.
BIA CRAFT
Welcoming chain of craft beer outlets with branches across the city. They sell their own brews as well as guest brews from other breweries, and their snacks are excellent too. My personal favorite is the canalside Truong Sa branch.
EAST WEST BREWING CO
Probably the classiest microbrewery in Saigon, East West offers a comfortable, stylish taproom just behind Ben Thanh Market, and also offers tasty snacks and brewery tours and tastings.
Travel Advisor
Tim Russell
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This guide is part of our ongoing series on travel to Ho Chi Minh City. For more travel tips, check out Fora Advisor Jennifer Schwartz’s guide, Best Hotels & Things to Do in Ho Chi Minh City.