Croatia’s Dalmatian Coast: Dubrovnik, Split & Hvar for Food, Wine & Waterfront Wandering

Wander Dubrovnik’s Old Town & hidden alleyways

Dubrovnik’s Old Town is every bit as beautiful as you’ve seen in photos, but the real magic is found in the quieter back alleys away from the cruise crowds. I love pairing a gentle, locally led walking tour with strategic detours up side streets and staircases, where you can slip into tiny squares, peek behind stone walls, and feel like you’ve stepped into a lived-in, coastal village instead of a movie set.

Walk (or strategically time) the Dubrovnik City Walls

Walking the city walls is a must, but timing is everything. Go early or later in the day to avoid the sun and cruise-ship rush, and you’ll be rewarded with incredible views over the terracotta rooftops and the Adriatic. With the right planning, it feels more like a peaceful, elevated stroll than a crowded attraction.

Private boat day to a quiet island village

One of the most memorable experiences is gliding out from Dubrovnik’s port by private boat toward a tiny island village where life moves slowly. There, you can visit a local host’s home, taste house-made white, rosé, and red wine, sample olive oil and seasonal fruits straight from their garden, and hear stories from a former sea captain about his life at sea. It’s intimate, unhurried, and a beautiful way to experience everyday Croatian life.

Oyster tasting & bay cruise in Ston

Ston is a dream for seafood lovers. You’ll visit a family-run oyster farm, taste oysters plucked directly from the bay (raw and broiled with herbs and garlic), and then head out on a small wooden boat to see how the oysters are cultivated on vertical nets. It’s technical, fascinating, and delicious—and often followed by a simple, perfect lunch of sea bream and roasted vegetables from the family’s garden.

Explore Split’s Old Town & Diocletian’s Palace

Split’s Old Town is built around the remains of Diocletian’s Palace, so you’re essentially wandering through living Roman history. A knowledgeable guide can bring the palaces, narrow lanes, and hidden courtyards to life, while also helping you navigate the more modern side of the city: markets, marina-front promenades, and casual spots for coffee or spritzes.

Hands-on cooking class in a local home (Split area)

For travelers who love to cook, a private class in a local chef’s home is a standout experience. Picture a warm, art-filled kitchen with a long table, big windows, and a balcony with herbs growing just outside. You’ll work with seasonal ingredients from the market—things like figs, anchovies, local cheeses, and mussels—and learn how to turn simple, fresh ingredients into an elegant meal you can actually recreate at home.

Slow down at a design-forward villa or suite on Hvar

On Hvar, I love pairing sightseeing with genuine down time in a beautiful, sustainability-minded resort or villa. Think: private plunge pool, sea views, light-filled interiors, and thoughtful amenities like eco-friendly coffee pods and natural materials. It’s the kind of place where breakfast is unhurried, your pool is heated, and you actually have time to sit with your thoughts between activities.

“Secret lunch” at a mountaintop olive orchard

High above the sea, there’s an event-style venue with a small kitchen, bar, and long table looking out over the water and olive groves. A multi-course, wine-paired lunch might be served in different corners of the orchard—a little wander here, a new dish there—with hydroponic gardens humming away nearby. It’s intimate, scenic, and perfect for proposals, small groups, or anyone who loves long, thoughtful meals in beautiful settings.

Evening strolls & sunset drinks in Hvar Town

Once the daytime crowds thin, Hvar Town takes on a softer glow. I recommend a late-afternoon or early-evening walking tour to learn about the island’s history and then lingering afterward for cocktails at a flower-framed bar along the promenade. It’s the ideal way to soak up the atmosphere without rushing.

• La Mar Restaurant at Valamar Collection Dubrovnik President Hotel: Overlooking the Adriatic, this restaurant takes Croatian comfort food and elevates it into a polished, multi-course experience. Expect beautifully plated dishes that still feel soulful—the kind of meal that makes you linger over each course and truly lean into your first night on the coast.

• Posat Dubrovnik: Tucked among the stone walls and alleyways of the Old Town, this type of spot pairs refined Croatian dishes with an atmospheric terrace overlooking the streets below. I love it for a leisurely lunch after touring the city—think rich, hearty dishes, well-made cocktails, and a chance to people-watch without being right on the busiest squares.

• Family-run oyster farm dining in Ston: Here, lunch is an experience: raw and broiled oysters, fresh fish, roasted vegetables from the garden, and local wine poured generously. The setting is a simple home with a bar-like setup and a view over the bay—nothing flashy, but it’s easily one of the most memorable meals of the trip.

• Zrno Soli Restaurant: Along Split’s marina, you’ll find restaurants serving regional dishes that feel both comforting and elevated. A three-course lunch might include local starters, a hearty main, and a light dessert, served with the kind of warm hospitality that makes you feel like a regular, even on your first visit.

• Rooftop Bar & Restaurant at Cornaro Hotel Split: Cornaro’s rooftop bar is an ideal pre-dinner stop: blankets at the ready for cool evenings, views over the city, and a curated cocktail list. It’s a great place to unwind after a day of touring Split and to get a feel for the city from above before heading to dinner.

• Home-cooked dinner in a local chef’s kitchen: This is less a “restaurant” and more a hosted experience: wine flowing, small bites like bacon-wrapped figs and marinated anchovies, then beautifully prepared mussels and seasonal plates. The emphasis is on seasonal, simple ingredients cooked with confidence—a reminder that some of the best meals come from home kitchens.

• Long, home-style lunch in the hills above Hvar: At a family home in the hills, lunch is hearty, generous, and deeply rooted in local tradition. You might help prepare potato gnocchi or a slow-braised dish while learning about family history, then sit down to a table laden with food. It’s ideal for travelers who appreciate immersive, home-style dining.

• Secret mountaintop “event space” lunch near Hvar: This venue pairs chef-driven cuisine with sweeping sea views from high above the coast. Courses arrive one by one at different spots within an olive orchard, giving you time to wander, sip wine, and soak up the scenery. It feels tailor-made for special occasions and intimate celebrations.

• ANTIQUE SUSHI Split: For a change of pace after days of traditional dishes, a sushi dinner along Split’s waterfront hits the spot. Fresh fish, well-balanced rolls, and a breezy outdoor setting make it a fun “reset” meal before you head back into the rhythm of Croatian comfort food.

• The Bank Kitchen & Bar: Think ribeye and tuna steaks, outdoor tables right by the water, and a relaxed crowd lingering over dinner. It’s the perfect “last night” experience—watching the city wind down around 10 pm while you finish your meal under the night sky.