Wandering Through Rioja: Spain's Wine Wonderland

Haro wine row:

• R. López de Heredia Viña Tondonia: Start your Rioja adventure in Haro, the region's wine capital, at this historic gem. As you wander through the different cellars, you're walking through centuries of winemaking tradition. While I’m still debating how I feel about the cobweb-covered, moldy ancient vault full of dusty bottles, the tasting at the end eased my arachnophobia — and made it all worth it!
  
  Pro tip: Reservations are essential for this memorable experience.

• Gómez Cruzado: Just steps from Viña Tondonia, this hospitable winery offers an inviting terrace that’s perfect for enjoying a tasting flight or a leisurely glass. When traveling with a furry friend, welcoming spots like this make all the difference.

• Bodegas Muga: Another Haro staple just a 2-minute walk from the others. If you’re a fan of bubbles, don’t miss their cava, a Spanish sparkling wine! While the property wasn’t a scenic standout, the wines made up for it. Muga wines are widely available back home, so you can relive your Rioja adventure anytime.
  
  Ali's Haro flight favorites: Viña Cubillo Crianza, Viña Tondonia Red Reserva, Muga Selección Especial, and Cava Conde de Haro.

Rioja Alavesa gems:

• Ostatu: September and October are ideal months to explore the Rioja Alavesa area and this charming winery. Enjoy a seamless experience with a private driver while you sip your way through crisp blancos and fruity, medium-bodied Tempranillo.

• Luis Cañas: Family-run and one of the oldest, top wineries in the town of Villabuena de Alava. Fuel up on their local meats and cheeses to go with this generous tasting.

• Marqués de Riscal: Founded in 1858, this award-winning winery has evolved into the “City of Wine." Boasting a luxurious hotel designed by Frank Gehry (check out my recommended accommodations!). Take a vineyard tour and see why it's ranked among the world's best. Finally, indulge in three (or more) exceptional wines from this town of Elciego, paired with local meats and cheeses.
  
  Ali’s Rioja Alavesa flight favorites: Ostatu Blanco, Gloria de Ostatu, Luis Cañas Reserva de la Familia and Marqués de Riscal Reserva — their classic red.

The showstopper in Logroño:

• Marqués de Murrieta: My personal favorite! Reserve ahead for an unforgettable experience featuring a tour through their vats, barrels and wine museum. Choose from several curated experiences and take home beautiful literature about their stories and wines. Celebrating my birthday (and my friend’s) in their private tasting room with personalized place settings at the round table made us feel like royalty, while wandering the estate grounds was like stepping into my very own wonderland!
  
  Ali’s Logroño flight favorites: Marqués de Murrieta Gran Reserva and Castillo Ygay. Make sure to grab Castillo Ygay while you're there — it's so limited, it’s tough to find once you’re back home.

Day trips:

• Pamplona: Just over an hour from Rioja, Pamplona is best known for the Running of the Bulls. If you’re visiting during the San Fermín Festival (annually July 6–14), expect 1 million spectators and participants, along with heavy crowds and road closures. It’s best to plan accordingly or avoid the area during this time if you're not into chaos. Outside festival dates, you can tour the Plaza de Toros bullring.
  
  Take a journey and step back in time as you stroll around Plaza del Castillo and grab a seat at Café Iruña. Here Ernest Hemingway not only sat but also spent a great deal of time writing about his experiences in the city for The Sun Also Rises.
  
  For lunch, head to Bar Casa Jesús Mari and grub on a classic bocadillo. My personal favorite is the Bocadillo Sobrasada with cheese and green piquillo peppers (Sobrasada con queso y pimientos verdes del piquillo).

All food recommendations are located in Rioja’s capital, Logroño:

• Umm Food and Drink: With a great vibe and outdoor seating (perfect if you have your furry companion with you), this spot offers a variety of tapas and dishes. The tortilla española and bocadillo are highlights, offering those classic Spanish flavors you crave.

• Tio Agus Bar Lorenzo: A no-frills, local pinchos spot with a simple menu featuring just four meat options. The lively atmosphere, enhanced by both the patrons spilling onto the street and the neighboring bars’ crowds, makes it a fun place to be. Eat and drink like a local — order the Tío Agus, which consists of marinated pork served on a roll. I don’t even eat pork, but I had to try this. Definitely worth it!

• Restaurante Tondeluna: Offering a range of options from Albóndigas (meatballs) to Tempura De Rape (breaded monkfish), this place is perfect for anyone craving variety. It strikes a great balance between casual and refined dishes.

• Taberna del Tío Blas: Endless fun with drinks, tapas and plenty of chatting with locals. As the sun goes down, don’t be surprised if standing outside becomes your only option. This is the place to be for an authentic Riojano experience.