Globally Gluten-Free: Greater Tokyo

I am going to lead with I am a card-carrying nerd and not ashamed. Some of my suggestions for things to do, are not on many lists, but should be tried by more people with adventurous souls. I offer the trifecta: a place to stay, an activity in the vicinity, and a dietary destination.

Ginza: Art Aquarium and Kabukiza Theater were surprise stops on my Tokyo journey. The Art Aquarium takes less than an hour but was brilliant. It was a fish tank meeting a light show. Take note: for Kabuki Theater, the tickets can be for just one act. That was ok for me to just get an intro. If you want to see the whole 4+ hours, you will need to buy accordingly. Snack at Ginza Imoyama and dinner at Tsukiji Tama Sushi. Hotel: Courtyard Tokyo Ginza

Kichijoji: Head to the Gibli Museum (navigating those tickets is its own science, order early) and walk around the lake or rent a “swan” at Inokashira Park. Short train from Shinjuku. Meal at a dedicated gluten-free restaurant "Where is a Dog?" Hotel: Hilton Tokyo.

Yokihama: Many flock to the Cup Noodle Museum. As a kid whose family grew up alongside Issei, Nisei, and Sansei, I think the Japanese Migration Museum (just down the street from it) is brilliant. Not flashy, but gave an incredible narrative. We then watched the sunset at Landmark Tower. Teddy’s Bigger Burger with rice flour bun for dinner (they asked if I was celiac, prepared a bun separately, and said no fries). Hotel: Hilton Yokohama.

Ueno: Pearl harvesting experience at Picolabo. A small location that showed me a bit about their hatchery and cultured pearls. I prefer a pearl over a diamond any day and can clutch them like a social media meme on cue. Navigator note: Uber got confused. It is across the street from the Ueno Best Western. For lunch, head to Gluten-free T’s a few blocks away. Hotel: Moxy Tokyo Kinishicho.

Asakusa - I loved Senso-Ji for many reasons. The architecture was mindblowing. But, watching the people dressed in Kimono celebrating the tradition and facilitated by local members of the fabric trades, filled my soul. People from all over the world felt beautiful and encouraged to be part of the place. I delighted in stopping to take people’s pleasures in this sacred area. Both Fleu de Sarrin and Tempura Asakusa Sakura are stars for dinner. Hotel: Moxy Tokyo Kinishicho.

Kamakura: Between the archeology and gardens, both the Great Buddha and the nearby Temple, were sublime. Short train from Yokihama. Depending on the weather, stop for cold sweet potato sundae at or hot udon at Juwari Soba Koga Kamakura. Hotel: Hilton Yokohama.

Top restaurants serving gluten-free options

Fleur de Sarrasin: This was a Michelin twinkle without the star. It is a restaurant which is dedicated to buckwheat and apples. The French Brittanny crepe made with buckwheat—the gallete — is central to the menu. Alongside duck confit and pork belly crepes, we enjoyed buckwheat whiskey and apple brandy. Some of the best bites of food ever—gluten-free or not. 2-14-2 Nishiasakusa 1F, Taito 111–0035, Tokyo Prefecture.

Tsukiji Tama Sushi: Blocks from Tsukiji Fish Market, this place was a religious experience. So fresh, gorgeous cuts of fish, with traditional accents. Everything was clearly marked with allergens. Bring your own soy sauce. Restaurant highlight: When I went to dip my sashimi into my soy sauce, the chef ran over to stop me and told me it was not GF. I showed him my packets. He was relieved. They were vigilant in keeping me safe. I was very touched. 2-15-19 Millennium Tsukiji B1-2F, Tsukiji, Chuo 104-0045 Tokyo Prefecture

Juwari Soba Koga Kamakura: Just across the street from the Great Buddha exit by the bus parking. Their udon is 100 percent buckwheat and neither miso nor thickener is used in their scrumptious broth. I slurped like a local. 3-1-7 Hase, Kamakura 248–0016 Kanagawa Prefecture.

Tempura Asakusa Sakura: We had a massive multi-course meal. Get reservations. Halal menu. Lovely plating. With celiac, I often feel deep-fry deprived. Just sayin’, I should have worn an elastic waste band for all that I ate. 〒111-0034 Tokyo, Taito City, Kaminarimon, 2 Chome−18−16 THE CITY 浅草雷門 7F.

Teddy’s Bigger Burger: Due to the affinity of Japan and Hawaii—this Hawaiian chain is found all over. Like McDonald’s having GF buns in many locations in Europe—Teddy’s served up a GF rice flour bun. It really looked like it was going to weep under the Wagu, but I gotta say—it didn’t fall apart or get soggy and even better > I didn’t get sick. Would go back over and over. 2-2-1 Shinko, Naka-ku Yokohama World Porters 1F Honohono Street, Yokohama 231–0001 Kanagawa Prefecture

Top gluten-free restaurants

Where is a Dog? I had the Rice Bread Doria. It was phenomenal. Doria is a Japanese Italian Fusion dish (one of my son’s favorites). It is noodles doused with cheese, but this version with the GF rice bread was phenomenal. Japan, 〒180-0004 Tokyo, Musashino, Kichijōji Honchō, 2-chōme−24−９ SUNO Ecru 103 180-0004

Gluten-Free T’s: Two locations, Roppongyi and Ueno. I would suggest the egg rolls and dumplings. They also sell small bottles of gluten-free soy sauce. New location in Ueno: 5 Chome-3-3 Sotokanda, Chiyoda City, Tokyo 101–0021.

Behold the sweet potato!

The Japanese yam or sweet potato is often served hot out of paper or in a French dessert called Monte Blanc. Tokyo is renowned for its exquisite Mont Blanc desserts, where French desserts meet Japanese refinement. In Japan, it’s not uncommon to see Mont Blanc desserts be made with purple yam (ube), Japanese yam (yamaimo), or sweet potato (satsumaimo). Careful, sometimes it is made with a sponge cake, but not always or can be omitted.

Two locations of note:

• Kamakura Chacha: I got matcha tea monte blanc dessert without cake. It was so refreshing on a really hot day! Located in Kamakura between the big temple and Buddha. 1 Chome-6-8 Yukinoshita, Kamakura, Kanagawa 248-0005, Japan.

• Ginza Imoyama: They had a three part platter with monte-blanc, fries, and a bruleed sweet potato slice. I went back a second time! Everything is gluten-free and available for Uber Eats! 〒104-0061 Tokyo, Chuo City, Ginza, 5 Chome−9−19 銀座ＭＣビル 1階