Kohama Island: On Island Time in Okinawa, Japan

Explore the island by e-bike

Kohama is small enough to circle by bike, and riding its quiet roads reveals sugarcane fields, grazing water buffalo, and sweeping views of impossibly blue water. It’s the most immersive way to experience the island’s relaxed pace and pastoral beauty, with plenty of natural pauses built in.

Snorkel or scuba dive

Kohama sits within the Yaeyama Islands, home to the largest coral reef in the Northern Hemisphere. Snorkeling and scuba diving here offer exceptional visibility and biodiversity, with vibrant coral gardens, tropical fish, sea turtles, and—on lucky days—manta rays just offshore. Depending on the season, a wetsuit may be required for cooler water or to protect against jellyfish.

Visit Phantom Island (Hamajima)

Accessible by boat, Phantom Island is a shifting sandbar that appears and disappears with the tides. Surrounded by shallow, luminous water and dramatic rock formations, it’s an ideal spot for photos, swimming, and snorkeling. Many snorkeling and scuba excursions include a stop here.

Unwind at the pool, spa & sauna

Time at the pools, spa, and sauna is essential to the Kohama experience. The Japanese love their baths, and at Haimurubushi (where I stayed), there’s no shortage of options. You can rotate between the cold plunge, sauna, heated quiet pool, ambient-temperature pools, the ocean, and the traditional public bath for a deeply restorative reset.

Enjoy classic Japanese treats in town

Stopping in one of Kohama’s small villages for brown sugar soft-serve ice cream or shaved ice is a rite of passage. If you see a bakery or dessert shop open, stop in then—opening hours are more of a suggestion than a rule, and they may not reopen during your stay.

Kayak or paddleboard the shallow coastal waters

Paddling along Kohama’s coastline allows you to glide above shallow reef flats, clear lagoons, and mangrove forests. A peek below the surface reveals what feels like a natural aquarium, teeming with marine life and coral. Currents can be strong, so it’s best to paddle into the current or wind first and drift back rather than fighting it on return.

Bike through local farms

Sugarcane farming shapes much of Kohama’s landscape and identity. Riding through the fields offers insight into the island’s agricultural heritage and daily rhythms, and you’ll likely see locals harvesting by hand or transporting sugarcane to the local mill.

Nature abounds

Birders will want to keep an eye out for rare migratory shorebirds to add to their life lists. Wander white-sand beaches and look for coral fragments and unique shells (admiring only—removing anything from the island is prohibited). Expect butterflies everywhere, and be mindful around tall grass and non-paved paths, as venomous snakes do exist on the island.

Stargaze

With minimal light pollution, Kohama’s night skies are strikingly clear. Outdoor lighting is intentionally sparse, allowing constellations to shine brightly.

• Yorokobi: Definitely the hottest reservation in town. This local chef worked in Europe for numerous years and has brought his talents back to Kohama. He is opening a restaurant in London, so make sure to stop by while you still can.

• Yuuna: A more upscale (but still casual) Izakaya known for its beef tataki and warm atmosphere.

• Sanufa: A casual Izakaya known for its tempura and warm hospitality. It’s a shoes-off restaurant, but they provide slippers.

• 島夢人: Located across from the ferry terminal, this yellow-painted Izakaya has ordering via iPad and brown sugar soft-serve ice cream available to go.

• てぃーだ食堂: Located in town, look for the turquoise door. Only open for weekday lunches, their dan dan noodles are exceptional. Save room for their homemade brown sugar coffee ice cream float.