One Journey, Two Legendary Ski Destinations: Exploring the French Alps With Kids

Our first day in Méribel

Méribel

We arrived in Geneva, hopped seamlessly into our transfer, and about 2.5 hours later were welcomed by the warm and hospitable team at Le Coucou Méribel. The drive itself felt like part of the experience. Passing through the French Alpine countryside, including villages preparing for the 2030 Winter Olympics, along with endless postcard-worthy chalets tucked into the mountainsides, made the journey feel far more enjoyable than simply getting from point A to point B.

I had skied in Méribel as a child and teenager, but this was the first time I decided to bring my husband and children across the pond for a ski trip. Packing the gear and committing to ski travel with three children felt like a big step. At the time of the trip, our kids were 7, 10, and 12, and we felt they were finally ready. We were right. Le Coucou embraced families in a way that immediately put us at ease. The children were welcomed with letters and treats, and the ski butler and locker room experience was a luxury they still talk about today. The ski-in/ski-out access simply cannot be overstated. There is a chairlift just steps from the hotel and access to the larger lift system only a short ski away, connecting you to the endless terrain of Les Trois Vallées.

Exhausted, but satisfied and waiting for their ski butler

One recommendation I always make to friends and clients is to hire a mountain guide or instructor for at least part of the trip, and for us that proved invaluable. We reserved Jules through Maison Sport, and he became essential to the success of our experience. While we were fortunate to receive incredible snowfall in late March and early April, we also faced some challenging visibility on certain days. Jules guided us around the three interconnected resorts and helped us make the most of conditions that we would have struggled to navigate on our own.

With our coach, Jules

We spent our days skiing and stopping at mountain restaurants, including Le Soucoupe, Le Pierre, and L’Altitude. Le Coucou is also located just a quick ski from the famous La Folie Douce, and one afternoon we let Jules ski with the kids while my husband and I celebrated our parenting success. Our favorite après spot, however, was Le Rond Point, lovingly known as “The Ronnie,” just a short walk from Le Coucou. After four days in Les Trois Vallées, the children were already asking when we could return.

Legendary après party at La Folie Douce, just minutes from Le CouCou

Chamonix Valley

For the second half of our trip, we wanted a completely different experience and made our way to Chamonix Valley, where we stayed at Hameau Albert Premier in the lovely Chalet Soli. The contrast was immediate. Rather than ski-in/ski-out convenience, Chamonix offers a village-centered experience where shuttles to the various ski areas are simply part of the rhythm of the destination. The chalet fit our family of five comfortably, and my children loved the lofted sleeping spaces and fireplace. The pool overlooking Mont Blanc creates a type of magic that feels uniquely Chamonix.

Ski in the morning, lay out and swim in the afternoon

We spent time skiing Brévent, which offers less terrain than Les Trois Vallées but delivers excellent advanced intermediate runs and absolutely breathtaking views across the valley toward Mont Blanc. The children loved the mountain coaster and exploring the shops and restaurants in town.

View of Mont Blanc from Brevant

View of Mont Blanc from the Hotel Hameau Premier playground

To end the trip, we rode the Aiguille du Midi and completed what became a true full-circle moment for our family: skiing the legendary 20-kilometer (12.5 mile) Vallée Blanche descent through the Mont Blanc massif. Years later, I realized my father had skied the very same route decades earlier. It was an unforgettable ending to a trip that gave us not only two iconic ski destinations, but two completely different perspectives on what makes the French Alps so special.

Tubing on the air pillow—you can also ski jump onto it!

If you’re worried about traveling with ski gear, don’t be. Renting equipment in Europe is incredibly easy, with high-quality gear and convenient service available throughout the region.

I also cannot stress enough the value of hiring a ski coach or mountain guide, especially if it is your first time in a destination. Even one or two days can dramatically improve your experience by helping you understand the terrain, mountain layout, weather patterns, and the hidden gems you might otherwise miss. In Les Trois Vallées we skied with Jules, and in Chamonix we worked with Gaelle at Brévent and Brice for our off-piste Vallée Blanche adventure. Each of them transformed our experience and helped us maximize our time on the mountain in ways we simply could not have done on our own.

For more inspiration and insider recommendations, visit our France page.