Curator’s statement
There’s something about the air in Provence — a mix of sun-warmed lavender, ripe figs and dry pine — that stays with you long after you leave. I traveled through the region with one goal: to follow my nose. From perfumers’ ateliers in Grasse to open-air markets and olive oil mills, to tasting wine, this journey was a celebration of the senses and especially of scent. If you're drawn to aromatic trails and the slow beauty of the French countryside, this is your kind of escape.
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Things to do in Provence
A sun-dappled picnic in Provence, with the scent of strawberries, goatcheese, wild herbs and fresh bread in the air.
Wander the Lavender Fields of Valensole: Best from late June to mid-July, these endless rows of violets are as fragrant as they are photogenic. Go early in the morning for soft light and fewer crowds.
Pro tip: Bring a linen scarf to capture and carry the scent — it lingers all day.Visit the Fragonard Perfume Museum in Grasse: The hilltop town of Grasse is the heart of French perfumery. Fragonard’s museum and factory tours are sensory heaven, with hands-on experiences and a boutique full of small-batch perfumes.
Note: You can even create your own fragrance with a nose-led atelier.Take a Guided Foraging Walk in Luberon: Local guides lead aromatic herb walks through the hills, identifying wild thyme, rosemary and sage growing underfoot.
Optional extra: Add a picnic with goat cheese and local honey.Explore the Markets of Aix-en-Provence This town overflows with scent-rich moments: fresh baguettes, hanging vanilla pods, bundles of dried herbs. Don’t miss the Saturday market near Place Richelme. Sensory detail: The melons here are ridiculously perfumed — sweet and heady.
Olive Oil Tastings in Les Baux-de-Provence: Visit a family-owned mill to sample different olive oil varietals — each with its own nose, much like wine.
Pro tip: Ask about AOP oils made with the aglandau variety — peppery and lush.Shop for Fragrant Homeware in Isle-sur-la-Sorgue: Known for its antiques and brocante culture, this charming village also has great finds for candles, soaps and linens infused with lavender or verbena. The water wheels and shaded cafés make this a perfect afternoon stop.
Visit the Confiserie Florian, near Grasse to watch candy artisans handcraft old-fashioned sweets, from candied fruits to flower-infused pastilles. The lavender candies are delicate, floral and just sweet enough — like tasting Provence in a single bite.
Places to eat & drink in Provence
Food and Ambiance in Crillon le Brave is something else!
La Table de Ventoux (Crillon-le-Brave): Dine with views of Mont Ventoux and dishes infused with local aromatics like fennel, lavender and lemon thyme. The food here is exceptional — refined yet rooted in the terroir. Highlight: Their signature lavender crème brûlée.
La Bastide de Pierres (Gordes): Set on the main square across from the château, this lively Italian trattoria serves some of the best pizza in the region. Crisp, charred crust, rich tomato sauce, creamy mozzarella — simple and perfect. A personal favorite.
Chez Serge (Carpentras): Truffle season here is serious business. Come in the fall for black truffle everything — earthy, rich and unforgettable.
L’Oustalet (Gigondas): A wine-country gem where terroir translates into scent and flavor. Pair local rosés with wild herb-infused dishes.
Le Jardin de Celina (Flassans-sur-Issole): A modern Provençal restaurant and guesthouse surrounded by lavender fields. The air smells like summer itself.
Maison Brémond 1830 (Aix): For edible souvenirs: lavender-infused honey, fig jams and rose syrups to bring the scents of Provence home.
La Table du Pigonnet (Aix-en-Provence): Set in the serene gardens of Hotel Le Pigonnet, this refined restaurant blends Provençal tradition with a light Mediterranean flair. Dishes are delicate yet full of flavor — think courgette flowers, garden herbs and slow-roasted lamb. Dinner on the terrace, surrounded by roses and cypress trees, feels like dining inside a painting.
Need to know
Getting there: Fly into Marseille or Nice, rent a car and take it slow — the joy is in the winding roads and detours.
Great for: Solo travelers, couples and mother-daughter trips.
Sustainability: Many perfumers and olive mills are eco-certified and locally operated.
Insider tip: Avoid peak July if you’re sensitive to heat — late May or early September still smells amazing and is quieter.
Travel Advisor
Mirjam Shah
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