Mekong Reflections: Cultural Discoveries on a 7-Day AmaWaterways Cruise

This was our first river cruise, and AmaWaterways more than lived up to its reputation.

Our stateroom was spacious and inviting, with mahogany finishes, a king bed, a seating area, and a private balcony. Meals brought all 124 guests together in the dining room, while the upper deck offered a small pool, bar, and open space for yoga at sunrise or sunset.

All excursions were included in the cruise fare. Each excursion on the AmaWaterways itinerary comes with a listed activity level. I didn’t find any of them overly strenuous, though I could see how some ports might be more difficult for travelers with mobility issues. The Vietnamese and Cambodian guides were excellent—informed, friendly, and able to make every excursion both meaningful and fun.

Whether you’re traveling as a couple, on your own, or with a group of friends, the AmaDara creates a lovely environment where travelers can feel at home while discovering the cultural, historical, and natural beauty of Vietnam and Cambodia.

Our voyage began in Cai Be at the historic Kiet’s House, a beautifully preserved traditional home.

In the afternoon, we explored Sa Dec, where we visited the beautiful Cao Dai Temple with its amazing stonework and colorful religious decor.

We learned about Cat Daoism—a religion that blends elements of Buddhism, Taoism, Confucianism, Christianity, and Islam—as well as aspects of Hinduism, Spiritism, and Vietnamese folk beliefs.

This day was devoted to nature.

We entered the Tra Su Forest and Bird Sanctuary in small rowboats, guided by women whose oars rowed quietly through the water. Birds flew overhead and chirped in the distance, tall river grass surrounded us, and lotus flowers emerged along the banks.

It was one of the most peaceful and beautiful excursions of the cruise.

Arriving in Cambodia’s capital, we toured the Royal Palace and National Museum, both showcasing the beauty of Khmer workmanship.

The afternoon was somber with visits to the S-21 Tuol Sleng Detention Center and The Killing Fields. At S-21, we met Chum Meh, a genocide survivor, who told his story through our guide’s translation. Listening to him was profoundly moving—an encounter that depicted both the tragedy and resilience of Cambodians like Chum Meh.

The Killing Fields reminded me of my visits to Bergen-Belsen and Theresienstadt, sites that, like Cambodia’s memorials, stand as solemn reminders of mass atrocities.

We traveled to Oudong Monastery, where a quiet Buddhist blessing ceremony offered a moment of reflection. Climbing the 509 steps to Oudong Mountain provided panoramic views of the countryside from the top.

Back in Phnom Penh, we hopped into tuk-tuks for a ride through the busy city streets. Motorbikes and fast-moving cars zipped past us during our tour of Phnom Penh.

On Silk Island, we saw women weaving silk on traditional looms. One weaver invited me to try. With two foot pedals and a wooden shuttle to send the threads back and forth, it was much harder than it looked. At one point I dropped the shuttle and quickly apologized, worried I had spoiled her work. She only smiled, took it back, and continued the beautiful pattern on her silk tablecloth.

We also visited a local school supported by AmaWaterways. Sitting at simple tables and chairs in the bare classroom, we spoke with children who were eager to practice their English by asking me my name.

In Angkor Ban, we walked through dirt streets where local residents traveled by oxen drawn carts. Families shelled peanuts outside wooden homes on stilts, and we visited the house of a woman who had fled during the genocide.

Later, we visited Wat Nokor, a Buddhist temple that blends ancient temple ruins with later Buddhist additions, before gathering for our farewell dinner onboard the AmaDara.

After a final sunrise yoga session on deck and one last breakfast, we disembarked in Kampong Cham.

A 4-hour scenic bus ride carried us through the countryside to Siem Reap, where our group said farewell to AmaWaterways and we continued onward to Siem Reap and Hanoi.