Curator’s statement
When someone says “wellness retreat in Iceland,” you probably picture hot springs, a sleek Nordic spa, and a fluffy robe—I certainly did. Yet, somehow I found myself climbing aboard a bus, yes, a bus, albeit a tricked out one that ended up being my magical home. The ESJAN Glamping Buses at SÓL Retreat Centre, a former farm just outside Reykjavík where restorative workshops delivered the most unexpected wellness experience. And when the week was up, I ended my Icelandic adventure at the polar opposite—The Retreat at Blue Lagoon, where the robe was indeed waiting. Same country, different universe. And yes, I would hop on that bus again!
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Iceland leaves you in awe—vast open spaces, dramatic contrasts at every turn, and a peacefulness that stays with you. It is the kind of place you could return to a dozen times and still find something that stops you cold. Cue: the Northern Lights.

Turns out serenity for me was parked at the foot of Mount Esja in a glamping bus—and it was the best.decision.ever. Linda—the wonderful owner has created something genuinely unlike anything else in the country. Attend a drumming ceremony that connects you to something ancient, take a constellation meditation walk under an Icelandic sky that has absolutely no business being that beautiful, or learn the art of geothermal cooking. Worth knowing: the buses can also be rented independently, making this the perfect base for anyone wanting a unique, characterful stay near Reykjavík without a structured program.

Esjan Glamping Buses

Hop on the bus

A quaint sheep shelter
After a week of glaciers, geysers, black sand beaches, and life at my bus stop, there was only one way to end my Icelandic adventure—The Retreat at Blue Lagoon. Here’s what the guidebooks don’t tell you: the public Blue Lagoon is mobbed. Tourists elbow to elbow, selfie sticks everywhere! The Retreat is the secret—exclusive access to your own section of that famous milky blue water, floating in near silence. The bus had a kitchenette. The Retreat had a Michelin star restaurant. It was a final reminder that in Iceland, rustic adventure and refined luxury can exist side by side.

The Blue Lagoon
Need to know
Blue Lagoon hair warning: The minerals in the water are no joke—they will do crazy things to your hair. Load conditioner in before you get in, and if you have thick hair, do not be shy about it. Pro tip: It is very windy and can be quite cold while soaking, so I wore my North Face beanie, kept my conditioned hair dry, and my ears warm. I looked ridiculous, but it was the best beauty decision I made all trip.
Geothermal cooking: We participated in one of the most memorable meals—digging a hole in steaming, bubbling ground, placing a cast iron pot of raw eggs inside, covering it back up, and returning just 10 minutes later to perfectly hard boiled eggs. Iceland also bakes its famous hverabrauð—or Thunder Bread—the same way. Eaten with Icelandic butter and smoked trout. Delicious. The earth is literally the oven here.
Weather and sheep houses: The sweetest discovery of the entire trip? The sheep houses. Every September, Icelandic farmers round up their sheep from the mountains in a tradition called Réttir, before tucking them into winter farm shelters until spring. We saw them everywhere, the little shelters are equal parts practical and completely adorable. Arguably the most Icelandic thing I saw the entire trip.
Getting around: Renting a car works, but if you really want to understand Iceland—hire a private guide or join a small group tour and let someone else do the driving. They will take you on off-the-beaten-path experiences you simply cannot plan. Our guide knocked on a stranger’s farmhouse door mid-route and somehow got us a full farm tour from a completely charming Icelander who welcomed us like friends despite being uninvited guests!
Snorkeling between two tectonic plates: Hands down the best excursion in Iceland. Silfra is a glacier meltwater-filled rift between the Eurasian and North American tectonic plates—meaning you are literally snorkeling between two continents. Guide, dry suit, and equipment all included. Do not skip this one.
For more inspiration and insider recommendations, visit our Iceland page.

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Kate McGregor
Kate McGregor
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