Aurora Expeditions: Svalbard In Depth Aboard the Sylvia Earle

MS Sylvia Earle

I sailed Aurora Expeditions' "Svalbard In Depth" itinerary aboard the Sylvia Earle, and it was the clearest demonstration of why Svalbard is a perfect expedition destination. Over 15 days, we reached pack ice, glacier faces, walrus haul-outs, bird cliffs, and remote landing sites that simply aren't accessible any other way—and the trip's entire shape bent around what the weather, wildlife, and ice were doing on any given day, not the other way around.

Aurora is an Australian company, and that personality came through clearly on board. The expedition team was relaxed, funny, and unfussy without ever compromising professionalism. They were clearly experienced and safety-minded, but never stiff—the right mindset when weather, ice, and wildlife can change the plan at any moment.

Group photo: Expedition team and guests

The trip began in Oslo, where we caught a charter flight to Longyearbyen, the world's northernmost airport. Our short introductory tour was a fascinating introduction to Svalbard's history, with stops at the Svalbard Global Seed Vault and the Svalbard Museum. A small detail I loved: you take your shoes off before entering any home or business in Svalbard, museums included.

Ice landing at 81 degrees north

Our voyage was very lucky with both wildlife and weather. We saw two polar bears on and around the pack ice, including one unforgettable encounter with a curious male who walked and swam remarkably close to the ship to investigate us.

The captain was willing to adjust the itinerary whenever conditions or wildlife warranted it, and that's exactly what clients are buying on an expedition like this. Flexibility matters, and the best moments are often the unplanned ones—like the 6:45 a.m. ship-wide wake-up call because a pod of belugas with calves is most definitely a "PANTS ON" situation.

We also saw multiple walrus haul-outs, pods of belugas, minke whales, dozens of seals, herds of reindeer, Arctic fox kits, millions of guillemots and other seabirds, puffins, gulls, and even a remarkably rare Greenland bowhead whale. (Whale nerds rejoiced!) Even on disembarkation day, Svalbard still had one more perfect moment: two reindeer crossing the street in "downtown" Longyearbyen.

Arctic fox kit

Walrus haul out

There was an average of one landing and one Zodiac cruise per day. Most landings involved wet landings and uneven terrain. Land-based activities are offered in activity tiers: short hike, medium hike, long hike, or beachcombers. Landings typically lasted 1.5–3 hours. For biosecurity, there were boot wash stations after every landing.

Zodiac cruise at Alkefjellet

Cabins

The balcony staterooms on Sylvia Earle are comfortable and spacious, with smart layouts, private balconies, and mini fridges. Storage was generous for expedition gear, and the heated bathroom floors were especially useful for drying boots and clothing overnight. The Junior Suite was the standout. We all preferred it to the Captain's Suite, even though the Captain's Suite is the largest and most expensive.

Service

Onboard service was highly personalized and polished. The entire hospitality team knew all our names and learned our preferences quickly. Pel made me iced coffee every day and sent me off with an extra Coke Zero to fuel my afternoon. Tony serenaded us with crooner classics at dinner, and the crew-hosted BBQ night at the aptly named Hambergbukta was a joyful, silly standout. It was easy to see why so many guests on board had sailed with Aurora before.

BBQ night

The polar plunge

The polar plunge is a rite of passage on any polar voyage, and ours did not disappoint. Our onboard expedition leader doubled as the ship DJ, blasting "Ice, Ice Baby" before 19 lunatics jumped into the Arctic Ocean untethered in exchange for a single shot of ouzo.

Sustainability

Aurora Expeditions became a Certified B Corporation in January 2024, making it one of only two B Corp-certified operators sailing in the Arctic and Antarctica. That's not a marketing label; it's a rigorous third-party assessment that matters.

Svalbard landings

Norway has significantly reduced the number of approved landing sites in Svalbard recently, so operators are adjusting itineraries accordingly, and the right operator and itinerary matter more than ever.

Expedition logistics

Guests should be comfortable stepping into a moving Zodiac using the expedition team's "sailor's grip." Expect wet landings and uneven terrain. Pack layers you don't mind getting wet or muddy, and don't expect much (or any) onboard entertainment beyond good company and a fabulous view—which is the whole point.

For more inspiration and insider recommendations, visit our Norway page.