An Incredible Week of Adventure, Camaraderie, and Wildlife in Alaska with UnCruise Adventures

A humpback whale lunge feeding in the sunset as we sailed away from Juneau.

From the time we booked, UnCruise was well-organized and had excellent communication. I arrived in Juneau a couple of days early, but my friend and travel companion was promptly picked up at the airport on the day of departure and whisked to UnCruise’s hospitality room in town, where she could check in and drop off luggage. We then spent a great afternoon exploring Juneau before it was time to depart. We had a short safety briefing on land, then were greeted by the expedition team and Captain Andy (who was fantastic throughout the voyage) on our way to board the classic Wilderness Legacy. They also took our picture to help the team recognize us throughout the trip, a great touch.

One of many incredible whale tails seen on this trip.

Not long after boarding and the mandatory safety drill, we had our first evening briefing (AKA the “six o’clock news”), which sketched out our loose itinerary for the week. Note that the itinerary on the website is only a vague outline whose details may or may not be followed; the expedition leader, in partnership with the captain, will determine the best course and stops based on conditions. (I learned later that the itinerary truly changes week to week; according to the first mate, the ship will rarely visit the same location more than twice in a season.) As would become habit, the expedition leader then came around and took our “orders” for which activities we wanted to do the next day. Then it was time for dinner and a late embarkation, with the sunset behind us and a humpback whale in front, lunge feeding in the golden light.

Our first morning, we woke in Neka Bay on Chicagof Island, famously home to many coastal brown bears. That morning, we had a briefing about skiff tours and safety (skiffs are stable, inflatable rafts). We went out on a morning skiff tour and cruised along the coast, then spent some time exploring a tide pool. Rachel, our guide for the excursion, hopped into the water and brought over some interesting specimens for us to examine. That afternoon, we had our first guided paddle (my friend and I love kayaking, so we chose that activity every time it was offered), during which we saw playful seals and stunning scenery. It was as we were about to turn back that I noticed two rocks in the distance that seemed to be moving. Upon closer inspection, it was a pair of bears! We didn’t get too close since we didn’t want to startle them, but what a rush for the first day of the expedition. We also enjoyed more whales blowing and fluking as we departed that evening.

An eagle dramatically catches a fish.

Day two took us to a place I’ve always wanted to visit and a well-known highlight destination in Alaska: Glacier Bay. UnCruise is one of the few cruise companies with access to this magical park, and one of even fewer with the ability to overnight there. Some itineraries spend two days; we had only one, but over the course of that day we saw nearly everything we’d come to Alaska to see. My friend and I signed up for the ambitious “all day yak ‘n whack”, where the plan was for us to kayak several hours, enjoy a light lunch on a beach, bushwhack for a couple of hours, then kayak back to the boat. This turned out to be one of the most amazing excursions I’ve done in years of adventure travel. There were only about ten of us, plus our terrific guide, Dana. In the first two hours of kayaking, we saw harbor seals, sea lions, porpoises, and a whale! We reached a beach, and pulled the kayaks up, then enjoyed some well-deserved tomato basil soup as we watched a bald eagle attempt to fish while being harassed by seagulls. After a while, we looked down and found that two river otters had come up on the beach and were staring at us in utter dismay. They scurried back to the sea, then spent about fifteen minutes swimming around, glaring at us for occupying their lunch spot. As if that wasn’t enough, I happened to look over and saw a black bear emerging from the tree line. It had no interest in us and continued to munch on grass as our group gathered together and hollered to let it know we were there. Eventually, it looked up, saw us, and turned to sprint into the woods. What an experience!

A charming sea otter holds up its paws as we admire it from a zodiac.

The bushwhack portion of the outing was tough, involving a climb almost straight up a hill through dense brush with a lot of ominously thorny devil’s club all around. We enjoyed frequent breaks, however, with Dana often stopping to point out an edible plant or fungus, or a big pile of moose poop (alas, no actual moose). After, we got back into our kayaks for the return paddle, during which we saw another whale, more porpoises, and a sea otter. Then Dana told us: there were two black bears near the ship we could go check out. Thrilled, we hurried off to spend about ten minutes with each bear, watching from a safe distance on the water as they went about their business.

The coastal brown bear we got to see on foot!

The next morning, my travel mate braved the cold waters for a brief snorkel adventure, while I went on a four-hour bushwhack in Pavlof Harbor. It was an enjoyable trek through the woods, with quite a bit of time on the spongy muskeg (a sort of marsh) until we reached a serene lake with swans. We continued to where the lake turns into a creek with a salmon ladder built in. Our guide explained that during salmon season we wouldn’t be able to walk here because of the high risk of encountering bears. And, in fact, she received a message over the radio warning that there was a bear between us and the ship. We proceeded with caution and had the great joy of observing the coastal brown bear foraging at the tree line for a bit before it swam across the creek and disappeared. This would turn out to be the last bear of our trip, and what a great one to end on.

Later, as we were on our way to our afternoon destination of Basket Bay, we crossed paths with another UnCruise ship, which delivered exciting news: there was a pod of orcas nearby! We sailed that way swiftly and spent a fantastic 20 minutes or so watching them frolic around the ship. There was even a mother with a calf who swam directly under us. Another enjoyed slapping the water with its tail, putting on a show. After, we did an open paddle, free to kayak within a set boundary and explore an interesting cave.

Mother and calf orcas who swam under the ship!

The next morning, we received a 5:45 a.m. wake-up call in our staterooms over the PA system (a feature you can turn off if you don’t want to be alerted to animal sightings): there were orcas again! I threw on some warm clothes and ran outside, watching with glee as a trio of orcas showed off for us, with another four off in the distance. Later, once we arrived in Thomas Bay, we had our other “yak ‘n whack” of the trip, which was lower-key than the previous one. We enjoyed visiting a salmon hatchery and getting to speak with the manager and learn about the business. This is the longest excursion they offer, and the final stretch of paddling puts our muscles to the test.

Harbor seals posing on a rock.

Another highlight of the expedition was the next day, when we visited the Five Fingers Lighthouse, which was a first for everyone on board except for one expedition member. The lighthouse is located in the middle of a whale highway and has been used as a base for humpback research. First, though, we spent the morning at the nearby Robert and Crow Islands, where we had a guided paddle, with numerous whales spouting in the distance and a pile of harbor seals on some rocks. Over lunch, as we sailed to the lighthouse, I was delighted to catch a video of a whale “tail slapping” repeatedly—how fascinating! Upon arrival, they put us into two groups: mine went to the lighthouse first and got to explore the little island, which is home to a bald eagle couple with a nest (and hatchlings, though we couldn’t see them), as well as viewing a lot of whale activity from land. The other went out in the skiffs first for close-up experiences with whales and sea otters. We then switched places. When we returned to the ship, I saw something I’d only witnessed once before (and then from much further away): a whale breaching! It did it twice in a row, and I was filled with glee.

When we reluctantly said goodbye to the lighthouse, we began making our way to Endicott Arm; however, the captain came onto the speaker to announce that the six o’clock news would be delayed due to a large group of whales surrounding the ship. There were more than we could count. We stood at the bow, unsure of where to look with them spouting and fluking all over. I’ve sailed through the Girlache Strait in Antarctica and this was comparable. Mind-blowing.

On our last day, we sailed up Endicott Arm towards Dawes Glacier (our only glacier of the trip, though I’d visited Mendenhall in Juneau). First, we had an optional 6 a.m. skiff outing to Fords Terror, which must be accessed via a shallow waterway that’s only navigable for short periods each day. Inside, we were awed by the numerous waterfalls and mystical scenery. After breakfast, we went on an open paddle, where we soaked in the scenery and spent some time admiring a not-too-distant whale. Then it was time for the polar plunge. Passengers went singly, in pairs, or even in groups of three to jump off of a zodiac into the frigid water, earning well-deserved bragging rights.

A beautiful iceberg near Dawes Glacier.

For the afternoon, we repositioned as close as the boat could get to Dawes Glacier. The only activity here was skiff tours. We went out in staggered groups to zip around towering icebergs and admire the glacier from a distance. We really enjoyed it when they stopped the zodiac so we could partake of some hot chocolate—a surprise treat that was perfect with the cool glacial breeze blowing on us.

Alas, that was the end of our adventure. The next morning, we put our bags out just after wake-up, arrived at Juneau around breakfast, and then disembarked at 8:15 a.m. The expedition team, crew, and entire staff gathered to see us off, and Captain Andy made sure to wish us all a warm farewell. We had some time in Juneau before the included airport shuttle.

The food throughout the expedition was delicious. Breakfast tended to be of limited variety, but the staff are very accommodating to requests. Lunch was usually themed, with a meat or veggie option (and always a salad + protein combo available). Dinner was always the highlight, however, with three courses and high-quality ingredients. You’ll be given a choice of meat, seafood, or veggie entrée, but don’t be shy about asking for “surf n turf”! The seafood options were all local and wild caught. We were thrilled by Dungeness crab night, an all-you-can eat extravaganza. And desserts, both for lunch and dinner, were very good. There were also afternoon snacks: cookies that came out around 3 p.m. and hors d’oeuvres around 5. Coffee and tea were always available.

The tables at meals all seat 6+ people, so plan to sit family style and make friends with fellow guests.

There are different lectures each evening, with topics such as kelp forests, salmon, whales, and glaciers. These were all quite interesting.

If you think “cruises aren’t for me”, this may be the cruise for you. No one on our sailing had been on UnCruise before, and for many it was a first cruise—chosen for the adventure and the location in spite of it being a cruise. A lot of the passengers were already talking about their next UnCruise before the trip was even finished!

I did as many activities as I could, as most people did, but remember that you can be as active or as relaxed as you want. There were always more laidback activities available, such as “meanders” (easy walks) or skiff rides.

Shuttle times are prompt. I was a minute late and missed my airport shuttle (oops). However, UnCruise was amazing and paid for my taxi to the airport even though it was my fault.

The Wilderness Legacy is a converted river boat, and she retains the stately appearance and classic elegance. Cabins are very small, especially the bathrooms, so travelers who prefer greater comfort will benefit from upgrading their stateroom. UnCruise’s other ships vary in size and age, so work with your TA to choose the best option for yourself.

Similarly, there are a number of itineraries available. This was the Wild, Woolly, and Wow with Glacier Bay itinerary.

You’ll likely have downtime in Juneau before embarking. Deckhand Dave’s and Tracy’s Crab Shack are two dining options I’ve really enjoyed. If you come after late May, go to the second location for Tracy’s, which is further from port and much quieter.

Many of our guides and hospitality staff had earrings and other decorations from WM Spear in Juneau, a shop with great Alaska-themed designs. Many people from our cruise went there first thing after disembarkation (and they were one of the only places open at that time).

The slideshow the last night of the trip is a real highlight; don’t miss it. And don’t worry—you’ll get the pictures by email afterwards. I was surprised they came within four days of departure, as most expeditions send them much later.

The open bridge policy is the most welcoming of any ship I’ve been on. The crew really encourage you to come in and hang out. They’ll point out wildlife as they spot it, and if you catch them at a calm time, you might even be able to get a quick lesson and then take the wheel. (“Try not to think about the fact that you’re driving an $18 million boat,” Captain Andy said.)

The hardest part of the trip was finding ways to dry our clothes, which got soaked almost daily. There is a clothesline in the shower, but I also recommend bringing magnetic hooks (the walls are metal) and some twine to make your own.

A guest on our sailing took it upon themselves to collect email addresses of passengers so we could all share pictures later on. This was a great idea, as we all had so many great shots to share.

On the flight home, I met someone who had just finished a Seaborn cruise in Alaska. She raved about the luxury of the ship; however, she'd seen only a couple of whales and no bears at all.

For more travel inspiration and insider recommendations, check out our Alaska page.