Into the Delta: Finding the Perfect Balance at Nxabega

The camp

Nxabega sits on a private, 25,000-hectare concession on the edge of the Okavango Delta, bordering Moremi Game Reserve. We flew in by light aircraft from Kasane, and, from the moment we touched down on the small airstrip, the seclusion was immediate. The camp feels completely removed from the outside world.

What struck us first was how beautifully the camp blends into its surroundings. The common areas are entirely open-air, overlooking a waterway that regularly draws elephants and other wildlife, so even your downtime at the lodge feels like part of the safari. The design is warm and earthy, elevated but never disconnected from the landscape.

The rooms

Nine tented suites are spaced generously apart beneath towering ebony trees, each raised on a wooden platform. The placement is so thoughtful that you genuinely feel like it's just you out there. Inside, you'll find a king-size front-facing bed with views over the delta's floodplains, both indoor and outdoor rain showers, air conditioning, a private veranda with a hanging daybed, and a private sala. The tents feel spacious and luxurious while still letting the sounds and sights of the bush in. For families, a two-bedroom unit connected by a walkway is available, though it's worth confirming age restrictions for certain activities.

The environment

Coming from Chobe, where the landscape was parched and golden, the Okavango Delta felt like stepping into a different world entirely. Water is everywhere at Nxabega, and it changes everything. Grass sways beneath crystal-clear channels, waterbuck leap through the shallows, elephants wade chest-deep, and, at one point, a massive catfish glided past our vehicle as we drove through a flooded crossing. The water brings life and energy into the environment in a way that feels completely distinct from a dry-season reserve. If you're building a multi-camp Botswana itinerary, sequencing a drier reserve with a delta camp like Nxabega creates a wonderful contrast.

The activities

Nxabega set the tone before we had even reached the lodge. Our guide Gee and tracker See greeted us at the airstrip and asked what we most wanted to see. We said wild dogs. Gee nodded, said, "I think I can do that," and drove us straight to a pack of 22 African wild dogs right beside the runway. The trip hadn't properly started, and Botswana had already delivered something extraordinary.

Game drives formed the backbone of each day, but the variety of activities is what sets Nxabega apart. The mokoro excursion was a personal highlight: gliding silently through the delta's channels, the focus shifts from big game to the intimate details. Reed frogs, kingfishers, dragonflies, and the delicate plant life that thrives in the waterways. It's a completely different perspective and one I'd encourage every guest to try. Our walking safari was similarly grounding, educational, and unhurried. One evening, Gee drove us to an open clearing, turned off every light, and guided us through the constellations above the delta. It was one of the quieter moments of the trip, and one of the most memorable.

The guide and tracker

Gee and See were our favorite guide-and-tracker pairing of the entire trip. See had remarkable spotting skills from the front of the vehicle, and Gee brought the bush to life in a way that went far beyond big game, highlighting tiny birds, insects, and details most people would drive straight past. He had a calm, authoritative presence that made you feel safe even in close encounters, quietly reassuring us when we got a little too close to lions for comfort.

Two moments will stay with us. A sundowner beside a pool of hippos, drinks in hand, while a female hippo opened her massive jaws to assert dominance just yards away. And being charged by Bruce, Nxabega's resident rhino. Gee handled it with total composure. We were never in real danger, but watching a rhino reach full speed in your direction is a thrill that doesn't fade.

Ideal for

Nxabega is ideal for anyone with a genuine interest in safari, whether it's your first time or your fifth. It may not offer the classic open-plains aesthetic that some visitors picture; the Okavango Delta's beauty is more lush, intricate, and water-defined. But that's precisely what makes it special. The combination of land and water activities, intimate camp size, and exceptional guiding creates an experience that feels complete.

• Access is via light aircraft followed by a game drive transfer. The seclusion is part of the appeal.

• Water activities such as mokoro excursions and boat trips are seasonal and depend on flood levels. Confirm timing with your advisor.

• Sequencing a drier reserve before Nxabega makes for a striking contrast. We came from Chobe, and the shift in landscape was one of the best parts of the trip.

• The camp runs largely on solar energy with a Tesla battery storage system, so the sustainability credentials are strong.

• Expert planning makes a real difference in Botswana. Charter flights, camp sequencing, and seasonal timing all matter. Work with an advisor who knows the lodges firsthand.

For more inspiration and insider recommendations, visit our safari page.