Glacier National Park: A Lodge-to-Lodge Adventure

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  • Adventure Travel

  • Active Travel

  • Nature Escapes

  • Off-the-Beaten-Path Travel

  • Montana

  • Mountains

Advisor - Glacier National Park: A Lodge-to-Lodge Adventure
Curator’s statement

Glacier Nation Park is one of America’s most breathtaking national parks-where rugged mountains, icy-blue alpine lakes, ancient forests, and ample wildlife meet legendary hikes, historic lodges, and the renowned Going-to-the-Sun-Road. Called the “Crown of the Continent,” this park is full of gems wherever you look!

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Day 1: Getting there, getting settled

View of Lake McDonald from Village Inn at Apgar

Our party of 3 flew into the Missoula Airport: a small, but well thought out location with rental car counters on site. Our first stop was Big Sky Brewing Co. for a local beer while making a grocery list followed by Wally and Buck (amazing!) for a late lunch. We then made the 2.5-hour drive north to Apgar, with a stop in Kalispell at Albertsons for groceries and Murphy's State Liquor & Wine Store for drinks.

Once at Apgar, we checked in and explored the quaint village, ate ice cream on the edge of Lake McDonald while marveling at the rainbow stones, souvenir shopped, and hit the hay. Pick up Bear Spray from Glacier Outfitters

Night one: We stayed at the Village Inn at Apgar in the family room. Our room had a queen bed in a sperate bedroom, a queen bed and twin in the main room, and a private bathroom. It was on the second floor (no elevator) and had the most amazing views out the panoramic window. The hotel was dated but clean, and WiFi was available (not the case farther in the park).

Day 2: Exploring West Glacier

Dipping my toes in at Avalanche Lake

For West Glacier, you need a park entrance and timed entry pass. After check out, we ate breakfast in the car and then we headed into West Glacier to hike the Trail of the Cedars/Avalanche Lake (5 miles). Pro tip: There will be a crowd where the trail meets the lake so keep walking around the edge until you find a quieter spot. Explore and enjoy lunch at Lake McDonald Lodge. Drive the Going-to-the-Sun Road, stopping at overlooks along the way. Stop at Logan’s Pass Visitor Center to hike Hidden Lake Overlook (2.5 mile boardwalk path with lots of stairs). Pro tip: Scope out parking and bathrooms since you will be back tomorrow!

Enjoy dinner at Two Dog Flats Grill and watch the sunset at Wild Goose Island Overlook.

Night two: We stayed at the Rising Sun Motor Inn in a motor inn room (2 double beds, bathroom). The three room options are all rustic at this no-frills property, but there is a restaurant, general store, and gift shop. Pro tip: Pack your hiking backpack for tomorrow, you want as early a start as possible.

Day 3: Exploring Central Glacier

View from the Highline Trail

Get out the door early for parking at Logan’s Pass Visitor Center. If you don’t want to deal with parking, you can take a shuttle that stops across the street at St. Mary’s Lake. The shuttle is convenient, but getting back adds one or more hours just waiting in line.

Hike the Highline Trail (15 miles). There are 2 routes:

  • To Granite Park Chalet and back: we did not do this, but wished we had!

  • To Granite Park Chalet and down the Loop: we equated the Loop to hell-walking in full-sun downhill (kills your legs) with no views for hours, then fighting crowds of tired hikers to board a shuttle back to Logan’s Pass. Pro tip: Bring lots of water, food, and layers. Send one of your party to grab a pie-to-go from Rising Sun Pizza while the others shower, then enjoy it in your room or on the porch (watch out for bears-they like pizza too!)

Night three: We continued our stay at the Rising Sun Motor Inn.

Day 4: Soak it in

St. Mary Falls

Pack it up, check out, grab a to-go coffee and breakfast from the general store, then drive across the street to the Rising Sun boat dock at St. Mary’s Lake for a breathtaking boat tour. This is a scenic 1.5-hour boat ride or 3.5-hour tour and hike (St. Mary’s Falls-3.2 miles). We opted for the tour and hike, and hustled to see Virginia Falls too.

Head out of the park and enjoy lunch in Browning or Babb. Pro Tip: Fill up with gas in Browning! We then went south to visit Two Medicine, and while it was beautiful, I do not think it was worth the drive. I would suggest moving on to the Many Glacier area and see if your room is ready for check-in. Explore the Many Glacier Hotel and grounds, rent a kayak and navigate Swiftcurrent Lake, or grab a cocktail and relax on the deck-you earned it!

Eat at Two Sisters Café for dinner and ask if they have any breakfast items you can get to-go (the breakfast at Many Glacier Hotel is underwhelming).

Night four: We stayed at the Many Glacier Hotel, a grand Swiss-chalet style National Historic Landmark Hotel on the shores of Swiftcurrent Lake, in a room with two double beds. There are a variety of rooms–all comfortable, but historic. Bookings are competitive, and you may have to split your stay into two separate rooms. This is not uncommon and the hotel receptionists and bellman are rockstars and will handle logistics while you hike!

Day 5: Explore Grinnell Glacier

Grinnell Glacier Trail

Grab a coffee or breakfast then get to the dock early for the Many Glacier boat tour and Grinnell Glacier hike (7.5 miles, 1,840 ft elevation gain). Don’t forget to look forwards and backwards while you hike–the views are life-changing. Keep your eyes peeled for wildlife! We saw mountain goats, big horn sheep, and a moose. Plan to eat a packed lunch at the glacier. Dip your toes in the glacial water if you’re brave enough! Return to the hotel, freshen up, and eat at the Ptarmigan Dining Room for dinner

Night five: We continued our stay at the Many Glacier Hotel.

Day 6: Back again

Deer on trail at GNP

Take your time saying goodbye to Glacier National Park, then make the 4.5-hour drive back to Missoula Airport. You can drop off your bear spray in St. Mary or Apgar Village. Stop at Flathead Lake Brewing Co. for lunch if time permits.

Need to know

Getting there

  • Missoula Montana Airport (MSO): Best balance (140 miles/2.5 hours south of the West Entrance). Served year-round by major carriers, better ticket prices. Pros: More flight options and competitive car rental availability. Cons: Requires a roughly 2.5-hour drive north to get to the park.

  • Glacier Park International Airport (FCA): Best for convenience (30 miles/45 mins from the West entrance). Seasonal flights are offered by Delta, United, American, Alaska, and Allegiant. Pros: Most time-efficient option. Cons: Flights are usually more expensive during peak summer months, cars are more competitive to rent.

  • Spokane International Airport (GEG): Best for budget (270 miles/4 to 4.5 hours west of GNP). Pros: As a major hub, it frequently features the cheapest flights and widest variety of rental cars. Cons: Longest drive to the park.

Additional tips

  • Montana state law requires alcohol to be sold in liquor stores, not grocery stores. So if you are wanting to partake without paying restaurant prices, I suggest a stop in any of the towns leading into GNP.

  • I highly recommend traversing GNP from the West to the East. The accommodations, hikes, and sights get better as you go, and you end on the highest note.

  • If you want to experience the most of what GNP has to offer, staying within the park is your most efficient and effective method. This way you skip the driving times, traffic, and entry requirements, and experience the park in all its varied glory (sunrises, sunsets, star gazing, etc).

  • For this trip, we stayed at each hotel for only 1-2 nights, so we were strategically located for our preferred hikes. It made packing harder, but was worth it.

  • National Parks are always evolving their traffic management systems. It is best to check their most current rules directly before traveling.

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