The Best of Slovenia: Choose your Own Adventure

For anyone who wants their trip to taste as good as it looks: Goriška Brda wine country down to the Adriatic coast. This is an easy first stop if you happen to fly into Venice (direct flight from the East Coast) like we did.

Reya Vineyard, Goriška Brda: A three-generation, small-production winery, is one example of the wine tasting experiences in Slovenia. Brda is the kind of place where, if you want wine, you drive around and knock on winemakers’Don’t doors; some of the tasting rooms are stunning, and the hospitality matches. Don't be surprised if you are offered a glass of bubbles, several tastings, and a lovely snack tray.

Vintage Bus Gourmet Food Tour: A gourmet food tour run out of a vintage Fiat bus, built around a stop at Lisjak Olive Oil, a cold-press extra virgin producer that pairs tastings with a scenic hillside picnic lunch. Harvest runs October–November, and they hold up to 100,000 liters in the cellar at a time. From there, you can head into Piran, a medieval seaside town and genuinely one of the best in Slovenia to walk. Climb the upper perimeter of the castle walls for a full view of the coastline, then grab a crisp glass of white wine and a delicate cheese burek in town.

Portorož: Where we stayed, felt a bit more upscale than Piran. Dinner at La Mar Portorož, right on the main promenade (Obala), was a highlight.

Insider tip: If you're doing this in early June, keep an eye out; we stumbled on an annual vintage VW campout on June 6th, the same day as our tour, and it was a genuine treat.

For the underground world beneath all that scenery.

Postojna Cave: Carved by the Pivka River over millions of years. The full system runs 24 kilometers, though only five are open to the public. Your tour starts with an underground train ride that was honestly one of the most fun experiences. The cave sits 120 meters below the surface, holds a steady 50°F year-round, and its largest chamber doubles as a concert hall.

Predjama Castle is close by and also not to be missed. This magnificent castle is carved dramatically into the mouth of a cave. You can explore both finished rooms, and areas that bleed into the caves openings. Like everything else in Slovenia, the views from the wall walk at the top are breathtaking.

Slovenia’s one true city (population under 300,000) is deeply walkable. The Ljubljanica River splits the historic district from the commercial hub, with umbrella-lined cafés along the riverside and fruit and vegetable stalls setting the pace. Look for the hearts and dragons, Slovenia’s recurring motifs, worked into the city everywhere you look.

Central Market is a lively open-air market with stalls for produce, cured meats, flowers, and a milk vending machine where you can fill your own bottle with fresh milk.

And if you happen to be in Ljubljana on a Friday, March through October, be sure to check out Open Kitchen. It is a street-food market with stalls from restaurants across the city. I sadly did not get to experience this, but our guide told us that it is incredibly popular with the local community.

For the Sound of Music and nature fans: Lake Bled, Lake Bohinj, hay racks, and mountain farms doing full-board tourism with homemade schnapps.

Hay racks at Stara Fužina: The traditional Slovenian hay rack is a distinct piece of architecture that peppers the countryside, and Stara Fužina is one of the best places to see them up close.

Škofja Loka is a beautiful town with ironwork history and a well-preserved town square; worth a stop en route.

Bled: The lake that has stolen your imagination in pictures is even more magical in person. Be sure to take a pletna boat to the island church, and at the castle, don’t skip the Bled cream cake (kremšnita).

Bohinj: The equally gorgeous and often overlooked little sister of Lake Bled. There are several hotels to choose from and I would highly recommend an overnight or two here to take your time enjoying the lake, the turquoise river feeding into the lake, and all of the hiking and boating activities the town supports.

Tourism farms: The biggest surprise of the trip. These working farms offer full-board, more affordable stays, and everyone makes their own schnapps.

Worth the detour: Hiša Franko, in Kobarid in the Soča Valley. This is chef Ana Roš's three-Michelin-star restaurant, Slovenia’s first, and one of the best meals you'll have anywhere in the country.

Logar Valley is a pure hiking and scenery valley, ringed by peaks and threaded with waterfall trails. On our way to the hotel, we did a short hike to Rinka Waterfall, which would be worth timing around lunchtime. Eagle’s Nest Bar is up many precarious steps and is perched right next to the waterfall. It was somehow both beautiful and naughty to enjoy a beer or shandy at the top.

This is also where Hotel Plešnik becomes a destination in its own right: the rooms aren’t the point, but the lake-fed pool, spa rooms, and full-board meals are some of the most relaxing (and best-eating) hours of the whole trip.