Curator’s statement
I had heard whispers that the Azores were “the next Iceland” in terms of hot travel destinations and knew I wanted to see it at its mostly unspoiled. I spent an enchanting five days exploring the island of São Miguel and fell in love with the verdant nature, stunning coastline and welcoming people.
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Where to stay in São Miguel
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Things to do in São Miguel
Lagoa do Fogo — Lagoa do Fogo, or Lake of Fire, is a volcanic lake with perfectly blue water and stunning vegetation. There are multiple options to view the lake, but my favorite was the 11km (around four hours) out-and-back hike. Part of the hike runs parallel to a levada or irrigation channel, which provides a peaceful soundtrack to what can be a strenuous walk. Bring a picnic and take in the views at the lake before your way back.
Ermida de Nossa Senhora da Paz — A twisting road filled with hydrangea bushes leads to Ermida de Nossa Senhora da Paz, a hilltop church that is home to one of the best views of the island. The terraced staircase to reach the church is a stunner in its own right, filled with azulejos (the famous blue and white tiles) decorated with Christian imagery. Sit a spell and take in the tranquility that abounds on this island.
Sete Cidades — The town of Sete Cidades sits at the junction of two crater lakes (Lagoa Azul and Lagoa Verde) and is the descent point for one of my favorite hikes, The Vista do Rei, which takes you to a ridge above the caldera and provides to most amazing views of the lakes and the ocean further off in the distance.. I recommend doing the hike in the opposite direction so that you end up at Vista do Rei. Suddenly all that exertion seems more than worth it.
Mosteiros - A seaside village home to a stunning black sand beach with water in the most vivid, brilliant shades of blue. Small inlets and sea stacks create tide pools that are fun to explore. A 40-minute drive from Ponta Delgada, this spot deserves at least a few hours of your time. There is a food trailer on the main beach where you can order a drink and watch people surf. Island life at its finest.
Furnas - A valley home to a volcano that last erupted nearly 400 years ago, the village of Furnas is home to geothermal hot springs and pools and is a must-visit when in São Miguel. While swimming in the nearby Lagoa das Furnas is not allowed, a circular loop around the lake provides for an easy hike with no shortage of points of interest. Mata Jardin Jose do Canto is a private park with a stunning chapel, a valley of ferns and the Salto do Rosal waterfall. Well worth the couple-euro entry.
Parque Terra Nostra — Also located in the town of Furnas, Parque Terra Nostra is home to both a stunning botanical garden (filled with animal topiaries, native Azorean plants, bromeliads and so much more) and a large thermal bath whose healing properties draw hordes of locals and tourists alike. Wear a dark swimsuit (the minerals in the water can cause slight discoloration) and spend the day in a tropical paradise.
Arnel Lighthouse - Arnel Lighthouse opened in 1876 and was the first lighthouse on the Azores and was selected because it was the first part of the archipelago that would be seen when coming from mainland Portugal. These days, visitors can enjoy the architectural beauty of the lighthouse itself, as well as the views it affords. A word to the wise: the road down to the lighthouse is steep and it is highly recommended to park at the top of the road where there is ample parking. In the 30 minutes I was there, I watched three or four different cars nearly get stuck when the traction in their rental cars was not enough to go back up the hill. Save yourself the hassle!
Miradouro da Ponta Sossego - Pro tip: miradouro means viewpoint in Portuguese. Any tip you see one labeled on a map, it’s worth your time to stop. I happily spent many hours in my rental car, Miradouro hopping. One of my favorites was the Miradouro da Ponta Sossego in the less visited Nordeste region of the island. In addition to the stunning views, there are landscaped gardens so beautiful they are worth the visit alone. Bring some libations and enjoy their picnic area for the best al-fresco dining of your life.
Parque Natural da Ribeira dos Caldeirões — If strenuous hikes aren’t available to you but you still want to get a close look at the stunning Azorean landscape, Parque Natural da Ribeira dos Caldeirões is a great option. Located right off one of the island’s main winding roads, this natural park has plenty of parking and has five waterfalls all within a short walking distance. The hydrangeas are resplendent— this is a great spot for a photo op!
Places to eat & drink in São Miguel
Louvre Michaelnese — The restaurant whose name is on everyone’s lips, locals and tourists alike, Louvre Michaelnese is a beloved French-style bistro with an interior reminiscent of a turn-of-the century general. Reservations are a must. The cocktails are delightful (I adored the kinda sangria and I still have dreams about the seafood rice. Best enjoyed after a day of strenuous hiking, when you have more room to sample their delicious offerings.
Casa do Abel — Located about 20 minutes outside of Ponta Delgada in the town of Agua de Pau, Casa do Abel is known for its selection of grilled meats, most of them local to the Azores. I am not a big red meat person, but on an island where cows are a common sight, you know it’s going to taste good — and it proved to be one of the best steaks of my life. Many thanks to the couple from Michigan I met on the top of Ermida de Nossa Senhora da Paz for sharing this place with me. They said it was the best meal they’d had on the island and was facilitated by a bartender at another restaurant who was so insistent they try it that he called the restaurant himself to make them a reservation. With reviews like that, you know it’s going to be good.
Restaurant Tony’s - While in the town of Furnas, Cozido das Furnas is a must. Cozido is a stew of meat and vegetables cooked in holes in the ground next to the lake. The geothermal steam works its magic over the course of seven to nine hours and results in a dish that must be tried. While most restaurants in Furnas serve this local delicacy, Tony’s is one of the biggest and best.
Chá Gorreana — Open since 1883, Chá Gorreana is the oldest tea factory still operating in Europe. Two trails run through the tea plantation and are well worth the walk— when I was visiting, the workers were out working and it was fascinating to see the process. When you’re done, there is a self-guided tour through the factory outlining the steps of processing tea. The tea shop overlooking the plantation also has stunning views of the ocean and is the perfect place to stop for some tea and pastries.
Restaurante Gastronomo — This family-owned restaurant is known for its great hospitality and even better food. A great place to try many of the Azorean staples, including the freshest fish available.
Quinta dos Sabores — Since 2002, husband and wife Inês and Paulo have operated this organic farm-come restaurant. Bringing a new meaning to farm-to-table all of the vegetables are grown locally and other components are hyper-local as well. Reservations are a necessity, and if you find yourself absolutely in love with the property, they have two houses that can be rented.
Azorean Pineapple Plantation - Azorean pineapples are beloved on Sao Miguel and are grown one many plantations around the island. The Azorean Pineapple plantation provides tours that walk you through the cultivation process. In the end, the opportunity for sweet treats abound.
A Tasca — This no-reservations restaurant often has two-hour wait times but is still consistently rated as one of the best restaurants in Ponta Delgada. If you don’t mind the wait (and the sometimes surly wait staff) the traditional Portuguese menu is sure to impress.
Travel Advisor
Emily Stowell-Bui
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This guide is part of our ongoing series on travel to the Azores. Looking for more travel inspiration? Check out my guide, Pleasures of Porto.