San Sebastián: Anything but Ordinary

Glittering with 18 Michelin stars, San Sebastián ranks among food capitals like Kyoto and Lyon for the highest concentration of gastronomic excellence per square meter. What makes this city truly special, though, is how its exceptional food culture extends far beyond these acclaimed establishments.

The pintxos culture (Basque-style tapas) transforms eating into a social adventure. Join locals in the evening for a txikiteo (pintxos bar-hop) through the cobbled streets of the Old Town (Parte Vieja). Each bar specializes in its own signature bites—from simple anchovy and olive skewers to elaborate culinary creations that push the boundaries of what bar food can be.

If you’re looking to experience San Sebastián at its most vibrant, plan your visit during Semana Grande (Aste Nagusia in Basque). This nine-day festival kicks off the Saturday following August 15th and transforms the entire city into a non-stop celebration. This remains one of our favorite travel memories. Each night at 10:45 pm, we joined locals and visitors gathering along La Concha Bay for what quickly became the highlight of our trip—the International Fireworks Competition. Teams from different countries created spectacular displays that illuminated the night sky, reflecting magnificently off the bay’s waters. The city pulses with an electric energy that’s impossible to describe but unforgettable to experience.

If jazz is your vibe, time your visit for the San Sebastián Jazz Festival – Donostiako Jazzaldia, Spain's oldest jazz festival held annually in July. Founded in 1966, it features around a hundred concerts across twelve stages throughout the city, with both free and ticketed performances. San Sebastián shines year-round, but summer brings the perfect beach weather and major festivals.

When you need a break from the city’s energy:

• Cross into France to visit Saint Jean de Luz and Biarritz.

• Visit historic Gernika (Guernica) to see the legendary Gernika Tree, a symbol of Basque freedom, and learn about the tragic 1937 bombing during the Spanish Civil War that inspired Pablo Picasso’s most iconic work.

• Challenge yourself with a pilgrimage to San Juan de Gaztelugatxe, hiking on a hand-built stone bridge and 241 zigzagging steps lead to the 10th-century hermitage (made popular by Game of Thrones) perched dramatically above the sea—ring the church bell three times when you reach the top to make a wish, according to local legend.

• Escape to the charming seaside town of Zarautz, where you can wander through its lively center, get lost in the enchanting streets of its Parte Vieja (Old Town), and relax on Euskadi’s longest beach while soaking in magnificent views of the Bay of Biscay.

• Spend a day in vibrant Bilbao to marvel at Frank Gehry’s Guggenheim Museum—a masterpiece of contemporary architecture—and immerse yourself in the bustling Mercado de la Ribera, Europe’s largest covered market where you can sample local specialties and experience authentic Basque daily life.

• Sample the world-famous and iconic Basque cheesecake at La Viña, credited as its birthplace with the recipe passed down through generations.

• Don’t miss torrija (Spanish-style French toast) at Casa Urola, a well-kept secret of the Old Town—this lesser-known but equally delicious dessert features brioche-like bread, soaked in citrus-infused custard, with a crunchy brûléed sugar top.

• Savor wild mushrooms with foie gras at Bar Ganbara, an Anthony Bourdain–certified favorite. Don’t skip the razor clams (navajas al ajillo), and gooseneck barnacles (percebes).

• Queue up early at Bar Nestor, where there's no menu—just four perfectly executed dishes: tortilla (Spanish omelette), tomato salad, grilled padrón peppers, and the legendary txuleton (grilled beef rib chop).

• Discover anchovy heaven at Bar Txepetxa, where they serve 14 different varieties of pintxos featuring the freshest, plumpest anchovies you'll ever taste.

• Try kokotxas (hake cheeks) in salsa verde at traditional restaurants like Kupela.

• For a once-in-a-lifetime dining experience, book months ahead at Arzak, a temple of innovative Basque cuisine.