Detroit: Steel, Soul & a Second Wind

Michigan Central

Michigan Central is exactly the kind of building that could have been left to ruin if it wasn’t for a massive restoration in 2024. The Beaux-Arts train station has been returned to full glory, minus the trains, as a tech and innovation hub. Sign up for a historical walking tour or just grab a coffee and doughnut from Yellow Light and pop a squat in the open atrium to admire the grandeur. Thank the Ford Motor Company for making such a huge investment in saving the building and giving it a new lease on life. Jaw-dropping is an understatement.

The Shepherd

A former Catholic parish turned contemporary art space is one of those “think outside the box” places, thanks to the Liberty Street Collective. Located in Detroit’s East Village, the gallery has kept the beautiful stained-glass windows and married them with wide-scale visual art pieces and sculptures centering Black artists, including Nina Abney, Charles McGee, and Beverly Fishman, among others. The altar has been converted into a performance and music space, and the Shepherd is part of a larger campus that includes a skatepark designed by Tony Hawk, a sculpture park, and another sacred space—a wine bar/restaurant called Father Forgive Me (see more below).

The Detroit Institute of Arts

Call it the DIA, and, if the only reason you visit the distinguished museum is for the Diego Rivera Industry Murals, you won’t be let down. Rivera’s commissioned mural is a series of 27 fresco panels that depict workers and industry at a Ford plant in the early 1930s. It was considered blasphemous in its day, but viewing it now will give you a history, civics, and art lesson all in one. But seriously, stay a little longer. One can imagine that an inventory of art bequeathed by some of the wealthiest auto families in Detroit (Dodge, Ford, Penske, etc.) is quite remarkable—room after room of collections from antiquities to contemporary art, meticulously amassed from around the world.

Belle Isle

A trip across the bridge, to the charming Belle Isle, is worth a few hours. Rent a bike from MoGo and ride over (there are three docking stations within the park). Visit one of the oldest aquariums in the country, built in 1904—it’s still free. Next door is the Anna Scripps Whitcomb Conservatory, also ancient by U.S. standards. Check out the Palm, Cactus, and Tropical Houses, plus the Fernery. The Belle Isle grounds also house a lighthouse, a Piet Oudolf Garden, a museum, views of the Detroit skyline, and a 40-foot Giant Slide (only open in the summer).

RiverWalk

The Detroit RiverWalk is another outdoor spot that’ll have you adding to your step or pedal count. 100 acres of parks and green spaces are connected by eight miles of RiverWalk and greenways. The Ralph C. Wilson, Jr. Centennial Park was designed by the same firm behind Brooklyn Bridge Park and has a signature 23-foot-tall "Berenstain Bear" slide (with water features in the summer) and Detroit Pistons-themed basketball courts. Pack a towel.

Eastern Market

Even if you don’t have any room in your carry-on for any meats, vegetables, or spices, a stroll through the Eastern Market is a great start to Saturday (the only day the full market is open). The market spans 43 acres, has been around since the 1800s, and is on the National Register of Historic Places. It’s lively, crowded, and scent heavy, as any good market should be. Don’t miss DeVries & Co. for its cheese counter and one of the oldest working Otis freight elevators in the county.

Cliff Bell’s Jazz

Cliff Bell’s is what you picture when you think of a jazz club—a time capsule of Art Deco, mahogany, and brass, with round tables that start inches from the stage and skilled servers who know how to maneuver around them. Live jazz happens five nights a week at Cliff Bell’s, and reservations are strongly encouraged. Fun fact: The original Cliff Bell, who founded and operated the club through Detroit’s golden era, is also credited with inventing the bar stool (supposedly so women could sit comfortably at his bars and speakeasies).

Cass Corridor

Detroit’s renewal has also attracted some unique purveyors, so a few hours shopping in Cass Corridor makes a great activity (especially if you hit a rainy day). Hit up Third Man Records (Jack White’s record store and vinyl pressing plant), Bon Bon Bon for some creative and cute chocolate, Shinola for one-of-a-kind modern watches, Carhartt for original Detroit clothing that celebrates manual labor, and City Bird for local gifts and flare.

Baobab Fare

Founded by Burundian refugees, Baobab Fare is East African homestyle cooking at its finest. You can’t go wrong with any of the mains (Nyumbani is their signature) so pick your fancy and make sure to get a side of plantains, coconut rice, and a coffee or tea. The portions are generous, hearty, and 100% shareable, and they have great options for vegetarians and vegans.

San Morello

Southern Italian food and matching décor is at the heart of San Morello in the Shinola Hotel. Their dinner and breakfast menu both shine as they take full advantage of their brick oven for baked goods like classic pizza and Sicilian pistachio cake. Don’t skip over the cocktail menu—the Orange Ruby Fizz will have you savoring every sip and slurping the egg white foam.

Father Forgive Me

As mentioned above, Father Forgive Me is the aptly named wine bar at the Shepherd. Sit outside at umbrellaed tables on the gravel patio for all the Little Village action or inside the bar for a more intimate space with its oak bar and thoughtful millwork. The menu is seasonal and small-bite heavy, perfect for a long afternoon of nibbles and natural wine.

Warda Pâtisserie

Just around the corner from Father Forgive Me in a remodeled neighborhood home is a pastry shop run by James Beard-winning chef Warda Bouguettaya. Warda and her team balance Algerian, French, Middle Eastern, and Asian influences into an inventive menu—think almond- and honey-forward sweets, syrup-soaked pastries, and layered phyllo-style desserts. There is also another location in Midtown.

Grandma Bob’s

Just across the park from Michigan Central in Corktown, Grandma Bob’s is a casual neighborhood pizza spot, named after the owner’s grandmother. Chewy Detroit-style crusts and unique topping combinations like sausage and pistachio make for a fun casual lunch or dinner. They have vegan pizza options, too!

Lafayette Coney Island

Visually, you may be drawn more to American Coney Island with its big red, white, and blue signage, but, next door, Lafayette feels a little more authentic and understated (they don’t even have a website). Read up on the origin story for both (they are connected) and grab a stack of napkins for an original Detroit hot dog topped with chili and onions. No one tells you how to order, so just watch and do as the others do.