A Ligurian Love Story: Portofino, Paraggi & Santa Margherita Ligure

Explore Portofino

Tiny, glamorous, and impossibly beautiful, Portofino is the postcard version of the Italian Riviera—and absolutely still lives up to the hype. Luxury yachts float beside traditional fishing boats, designer boutiques line cobblestone lanes, and every angle feels straight out of a Slim Aarons photograph.

• Wander the Piazzetta: The heart of Portofino is tiny but magical. Grab an espresso and simply people-watch from the harbor square.

• Lunch at DaV Mare: For a chic Riviera lunch, book a table at DaV Mare. The must-order here is the famous Pasta DaV—a decadent, delicious pasta served with an actual bib… which, trust me, you will absolutely need. It’s playful, indulgent, and one of those memorable vacation meals you’ll talk about long after the trip ends. And because no Italian lunch is truly complete without dessert, stop for a gelato right next door before continuing your stroll along the harbor.

• Hike to Castello Brown: Perched above town, Castello Brown offers panoramic Riviera views that are worth every step. The walk itself is stunning—shaded by Mediterranean greenery with glimpses of the sparkling coastline along the way.

• Visit San Fruttuoso by boat: A secluded abbey tucked into a turquoise cove only accessible by boat or hiking trail. Spend the afternoon swimming in impossibly clear water before heading back along the coast.

• Sunset aperitivo at Splendido: Even if you’re not staying there, an aperitivo is pure Riviera fantasy. Breathtaking views, elegant gardens, perfectly chilled spritzes, and one of the dreamiest golden hours in all of Italy. Arrive just before sunset and linger as long as possible.

Sunbathe in Paraggi

Think sparkling water, loungers, chilled wine, and that effortless Italian summer feeling.

• Spend the day at a beach club: Paraggi is made for a full, lazy beach day. Book loungers in advance, arrive early, and settle in for the day The bay is small, so it feels intimate and buzzy in the best way. Insider tip: Beach club reservations are a must in peak season. Ask for front-row loungers if available (price changes depending on which row you book!). Bring water shoes if you’re sensitive to pebbles, and go for a swim early in the morning before the bay gets busier.

• Lunch by the water: Think fresh crudo, pasta with clams, grilled fish, and chilled Vermentino with sea views that make you want to stay all afternoon. Book a table at Lo Scogliero or La Langosteria for the best people watching!

• If you feel the need to move to work off all these extra calories, walk the Coastal Path. The scenic path connecting Santa Margherita, Paraggi, and Portofino is one of the prettiest Riviera walks you can do—easy, scenic, and filled with incredible photo stops.

Wander Santa Margherita Ligure

This is the perfect home base for exploring the Riviera thanks to its beautiful waterfront, incredible restaurants, and slightly more relaxed pace. It feels effortlessly sophisticated—less flashy than Portofino but equally charming in its own way.

• Stroll the waterfront promenade: The "passeggiata" here is peak Riviera energy. The promenade is especially beautiful in the early evening, when locals come out for their nightly strolls and the entire town glows golden. Insider tip: Grab a cone of fresh fried seafood from one Il Pescetariano near the harbor. Simple, salty, fresh from the sea - absolute perfection!

• Shop the local boutiques: Santa Margherita has some fantastic boutiques selling linen pieces, Italian leather goods, ceramics, and chic resort wear that somehow make you want to completely reinvent your summer wardrobe. Insider tip: Skip the obvious tourist shops and wander the smaller side streets just off the waterfront.

Take a boat along the coast

Seeing the Ligurian coastline from the water is an absolute must. Private boats, ferries, and day charters make it easy to explore hidden coves, beach clubs, and nearby villages like Portofino and San Fruttuoso. Insider tip: Book a late afternoon boat ride if you can. The light along the Riviera at golden hour is dream worthy

Enjoy a long Riviera dinner

Fresh seafood, homemade pasta with pesto, chilled Vermentino, and no such thing as rushing the table.

Italians dine late here, so embrace it. Aperitivo first, dinner around 8:30 or 9, and a waterfront stroll after is the ultimate Riviera rhythm.

Cuisine

Liguria’s cuisine is simple, fresh, and deeply tied to the sea.

Must-try dishes:

• Trofie al pesto (the pesto here is unmatched)

• Fresh focaccia

• Seafood linguine

• Anchovies from Monterosso

• Fritto misto

• Farinata (crispy chickpea pancake)

• Local Ligurian olive oil

Portofino

• DaV Mare: Order the Paccheri alla Vittorio—simple, perfect, and memorable.

Paraggi

• Langosteria: Book for lunch rather than dinner and stay through the afternoon. Insider move: reserve sunbeds in advance and order the shrimp gnocchi or blue lobster paccheri.

• Vesta Portofino: Time your reservation just before sunset and ask for an outdoor terrace table facing Paraggi Bay.

• Lo Scogliero: Best enjoyed for a relaxed seafood lunch.

Santa Margherita Ligure

• Vistamare at Grand Hotel Miramare: The sea-facing tables at dusk are some of the prettiest on the Riviera.

• Ristorante Beppe Achilli: This is the spot for serious Ligurian seafood lovers and a true local gem. Let the team guide the crudo selection instead of ordering à la carte.