In Search of the Northern Lights: Seven Days in Norway with HX Expeditions

This was an extended Spring Break trip. The bulk of it was a week-long cruise on HX Expeditions’ MS Spitsbergen. This was my first time sailing with HX and I was eager to try them out. Before getting on board, though, we spent two nights in Tromsø on our own and went on Northern Lights chasing trips each night. Both outings were successful, and both were with companies I’d recommend.

The MS Spitsbergen

The first night, we went with Arctic Explorers. They gathered our small group promptly at the meeting point and walked us to their offices, where we were outfitted with warm jumpsuits and boots. We then headed out to a minibus and took to the streets. You’re required to bring your passport on these tours because there’s a chance you’ll go all the way to Finland or Sweden in search of the lights. One of our guides referred to this as “chasing the gaps in the clouds”; the goal is to find clear skies, thus greatly increasing your odds of seeing the lights.

That first night, the lights came out very quickly, when we weren’t far from the city. Our guide navigated us to a pleasant, snowy hillside near a lake, where he first took some excellent pictures of us with the lights then lit a fire for us to sit around and enjoy some soup and hot chocolate while soaking in the aurora. The light show was spectacular and went on for a long time. We were thoroughly relieved to have success on the first night; we’d gone into this trip knowing there was a decent chance we wouldn’t see the lights at all in nine nights. When we got back to our hotel, we were startled to look up and see the lights right above us!

The second night, we went with Boreal Quest and were in a minivan with an even smaller group. The weather was not as cooperative; we spent a lot more time driving around looking for the lights, and the first couple of times we had a moment of luck, there was nowhere to park (remember, these are snowy, dark, winding roads). Once, we parked across the street from a house and the homeowner shone a floodlight on us to make us go away. Eventually, we found a spot where we got some decent views and decided to head home after that. It was as everyone else was dozing and we were nearing the city that I caught a glimpse of color in the sky. I glanced over at the driver. “Was that—?” I asked. “It was!” he confirmed, and quickly pulled over. We enjoyed a stronger light show and then called it a night for real that time.

Yours truly against a Northern Lights backdrop

Incredible Northern Lights over Lofoten

With two successful outings under our belt, we boarded the MS Spitsbergen the next afternoon after dropping our bags off earlier. HX often has no solo supplement offers; we’d taken advantage of this to book separate rooms, which we loved. The rooms were well-appointed, but the design of the ship is such that many of the windows are obstructed view, and/or passengers walking outside can see in if the light is on. I’d hoped to be able to glimpse the lights or other views from my cabin, but that was impossible. In my room upon arrival was a box of welcome chocolates (a nice touch!) as well as the included HX branded raincoat and water bottle.

Meals on board were buffet style in the dining room, although there was also a small café that ran during other times and had some of the best food on board. The variety of offerings was strong. Tables were not assigned until arrival each time, so we ended up sitting at various tables around the room, usually by ourselves but sometimes adjacent to others. We made friends on board and enjoyed several meals with them.

On expedition cruises, it’s traditional that each night the guests and expedition team gather for a briefing about what happened that day and what to expect tomorrow. As our first briefing began, however, a voice came over the PA system with an exciting announcement: the lights were out, and we hadn’t even left port yet! We all raced up to the top deck and were rewarded with a spectacular show directly over the city, with jagged streaks of green that made the nearby mountain look as if it were erupting. The juxtaposition of nature and city was striking. We soaked in the sight, taking many pictures and videos. I ended up staying out into the wee hours of the morning, reveling in each minute change in the lights. At times, it was possible to see them dancing with the naked eye. Another highlight was when a thick swath of green became clearly reflected in the ocean, magnifying the effect.

The next day, we arrived in Svolvær, a town located in the beautiful Lofoten Islands. We’d planned to repeat an excursion we loved when we visited previously: taking a boat out to see the majestic sea eagles. Unfortunately, conditions were poor, with wind and a lot of rain, and the excursion was cancelled. Since we knew our way around, we decided to explore on our own, pulling up the hoods of our raincoats and walking to town. We remembered a delicious meal we’d had and decided to try it again. The fish soup at Bacalao restaurant was, I’m delighted to say, exactly as good as we remembered. Hot, creamy, and generously filled with fish. Yum!

Our favorite fish soup in Svolvær, at the restaurant Bacalao

That evening, as we were leaving, the lights came out again. Little did we know that it would be the last time of the trip. Once again, I was one of the few who stayed out past midnight to enjoy the show. I’m not sure I’ve ever felt as awe-struck as I did for the ten minutes when the lights suddenly expanded fill the entire sky, such that everywhere I looked there was something spectacular happening.

The remaining evenings would all turn out to be cloudy. Luckily, since this was an expedition cruise, there were many other activities planned for the daytime, such as zodiac rides out among the fjords—including a memorable occasion when they surprised us with hot chocolate while we were out on the zodiacs—short hikes to enjoy the landscapes and brisk Norwegian air, and kayaking. I even went skiing in a nearby ski resort at one stop!

A zodiac out among the fjords

We enjoyed all of the activities but sometimes felt communication wasn’t as clear as it could be. The staff onboard were attentive and hard-working. The sailing was all-inclusive, except for top shelf liquor and some excursions; we always appreciate it when cruise lines take the guess work out of things.

Overall, we had a great experience. Except for one thing: instead of satisfying my itch to see the Northern Lights, this trip just made me want to travel to Finland and other places to see them again!

After dancing here and there, the lights lit up the entire sky for about ten minutes on the second night. Absolutely awe-inspiring!

A glimpse of the stunning Norway landscape

Wear layers! Temperatures can fluctuate wildly. A raincoat is essential.

If photography is important to you, a tripod is essential to avoid blurring your Northern Lights photos due to the long exposure needed.

Be flexible—conditions in Norway are notoriously changeable.

If you book with a Virtuoso advisor, such as myself, you’ll receive onboard credit that can be used towards any paid excursions, spa purchases, the onboard store (which has a decent selection of outdoor clothing, among other things), or as additional gratuity for the staff.

Be aware that the Northern Lights always look more intense in pictures than they do to the naked eye, due to how light is processed.

Be careful about group sizes if you do a “chasing the Northern Lights” tour; many were on massive buses, which would greatly lessen the experience. Additionally, check the description closely to see whether the tour includes free pictures, as this adds immensely to the value!

Don’t rent a car if you’re going in winter. Due to the difficult driving conditions, it’s not safe. Take an Uber around town and book tours that include pickup.

If you have a GoPro, the night timelapse mode works well to capture the lights.

For more inspiration and insider recommendations, visit our cruises page.