Home on the Herengracht: A 3-Week Stay at the Waldorf Astoria Amsterdam

We chose the Waldorf Astoria Amsterdam because we wanted a real sense of place for an extended stay, and the surrounding neighborhood made that easy. It’s close to the major tourist experiences without ever feeling too touristy. The hotel itself was converted from a row of townhouses along the Herengracht, and that history shows: It feels like staying in a home rather than a hotel, which matters enormously when you’re there for three and a half weeks.

The neighborhood itself sits beautifully within the canal ring, about a mile from the Albert Cuyp Market, an easy walk to the Museum Quarter, and within reach of the rest of the city on foot or by tram. There’s a strong cluster of restaurants, speakeasies, and bars nearby. This is a fantastic property for honeymooners, couples, and remote-working stays. I don’t think many travelers will spend three-plus weeks in Amsterdam itself, but as a home base and jumping-off point for the rest of Europe, it’s outstanding.

We stayed in a Junior Suite with a garden view, which was less expensive and felt like a secret hack. The canals are busy and boats go by en masse, so looking over a UNESCO World Heritage Site each day was not only more serene but also allowed us to “upgrade” a bit. Each Junior Suite has a different layout; ours had a lovely, oversized walk-in closet, which mattered for a stay this long. If I were booking again, I’d consider stepping up to an even larger category (garden view, of course), though the Junior Suite more than worked.

Canal views

Service at this Waldorf was second to none. The entire concierge team holds Clef d’Or certification and knows the city inside and out. From insider restaurant recommendations to obscure clay-court tennis lessons in the suburbs, there wasn’t a thing they weren’t happy to assist with. At night, walking through the main entrance always felt like a game of “show and tell”: They were anxiously awaiting our review of the evening, the restaurant, and any insight we could share from our experiences.

The room service team was a particular standout. Each night, they brought small treats, from stroopwafels to marzipan clogs. One night, while at the restaurant downstairs, I noticed another guest’s birthday cake (a vanilla berry cake, my favorite) and asked where it came from. They were “unable to find out” but offered me a piece of the guest’s cake, which I declined. On our final night, the team quietly arranged for the exact same cake, in mini form, from the same baker, to be sent up for us as a goodbye gift.

The property itself is gorgeous throughout and meticulously maintained. As with all Waldorf Astorias, Peacock Alley is the main bar, but, in Amsterdam, it functions more like a communal living room. We worked there during the day, had snacks and drinks in the evening, and had high tea on Sundays.

The spa is the one soft spot. It’s small and set in a lovely space, but the service level felt less polished than the rest of the property, and they only have a handful of treatment rooms available. The indoor pool is modest, not much larger than a large hot tub, plus a sauna and steam room, but it’s paired with an indoor seating area that opens onto the garden.

Indoor pool

Things to do in Amsterdam

Three and a half weeks gave us time to move past the highlights and into the city’s rhythm. Here’s what’s worth your time, and why.

• Stroll the canal ring

You could spend all day just wandering the canal ring and never get bored. It’s the single best way to understand how this city actually lives.

• Private canal boat tour

Public canal tours run the gamut from party boats to something closer to Manhattan’s Circle Line. A private boat gets you into the smaller, quieter waterways and gives a real sense of life on the water, rather than a scripted overview.

• Rijksmuseum

An institution. Extraordinary Dutch masters, and the building itself is as much a reason to visit as the art inside it.

• Van Gogh Museum

Fantastic, but manage expectations. If you’re hoping to see “Starry Night,” it isn’t here (it lives at MoMA in New York); the “Sunflowers” series is the museum’s real showstopper.

• Anne Frank House

The experience has changed a great deal over the years as the museum has expanded with new areas for visitors, but, at its core, Anne’s actual house, kept intact, remains incredibly moving, authentic, and devastatingly sad.

• STRAAT Museum

Built inside a former shipbuilding warehouse and shaped by the street art and artist community that grew up around NDSM, STRAAT is wall-to-wall work from graffiti artists from around the world inside one massive industrial hangar. Very cool, easy to get around, and reachable by a free ferry from Centraal Station.

• The Nine Streets

The place to shop for just about anything, from antiques to new jeans, without many major chain brands. It’s a proper afternoon of boutique-hopping between the canals.

• Albert Cuyp Market

A full tourist scene, no question, but not to be missed if you want to wander and take it in.

Pesca, Theatre of Fish

Where to eat & drink

• De Kas

A vegetarian’s dream, though not exclusively vegetarian, this was the most impressive vegetable-forward meal I’ve had in a long time, set inside a greenhouse garden. Good for lunch or dinner, and completely worth it; I’d go back every day if I could. It’s a bit of a drive, but worth the extra few minutes to get there.

• De Juwelier

One of the best meals of the trip. Around the corner from the Waldorf, Michelin-recognized, but completely laid-back. Sit at the bar and order the duck. You won’t be mad. If you love seafood, particularly oysters, head next door to their sister restaurant, Bistro de la Mer. Equally impressive.

• Pesca, Theatre of Fish

A little outside our neighborhood, but the most fun concept we found. Walk in and it looks like a fish market: The fishmonger tells you what’s fresh and how it can be prepared, you choose how many are eating and how you want it cooked, and they take it to the kitchen and cook it up for you on the spot.

• Char.d

The real winner of the trip. We rarely go back to a restaurant more than twice on a long trip. We went to Char.d three times in one week once we found it. Small, unpretentious, a great wine list, and outstanding food. As the name suggests, everything is done over their charcoal grill.

• Segugio

A true neighborhood find: Maybe five tables downstairs and five more upstairs, with fresh, delicious Italian food. Locally owned, with a longtime owner and waiter who’s just cranky enough to make it fun.

• BagelBoy

Outposts near the Museum Quarter and at Albert Cuyp Market. They only do bagels, eggs, and schmears, and there’s always a line. Excellent bagels.

• Pancake Bakery

A longtime Amsterdam institution for pannenkoeken (Dutch pancakes, savory or sweet). They have only five or six tables and are reservation-only. One note of caution: It’s recently changed ownership, so this is a mention for awareness rather than a personal endorsement of the current version.

Cocktails

While we were in Amsterdam, Europe’s 50 Best Bars announced their winners in the city, and the energy around town was fantastic, coinciding with the start of the World Cup. These are a few of our favorite bars.

• CUE

A vinyl listening bar on Utrechtsestraat with a Michelin-starred restaurant upstairs. A great stop for cocktails and good music.

• Door 74

A Prohibition-style speakeasy behind an unmarked door, one of Amsterdam’s most celebrated bars. Good luck finding it. Here’s a hint: It’s just down the street from the Waldorf.

• Flying Dutchmen Cocktails

A classic cocktail bar in the historic Odeon building on the Singel.

• Advocatuur (Rosewood Amsterdam)

The hotel’s own bar, set inside the former Palace of Justice, with an in-house Jenever distillery. Worth a visit even if you’re not staying there.

For more inspiration and insider recommendations, visit our Amsterdam page.