Banyan Tree AlUla: The Ultimate Desert Escape

AlUla had been on my radar for a while, but nothing really prepares you for driving into the Ashar Valley for the first time. The cliffs rise up on both sides and the resort sits tucked between them, 47 tented villas spread out so generously that you barely notice your neighbors. My villa had its own pool, a fire pit on the terrace, and a view I kept coming back to at every hour of the day. The light changes constantly here. Sunrise turns the rock orange, by evening everything goes deep red, and at night the resort lights up parts of the cliff face, which sounds like a gimmick but works beautifully in person.

The rock pool is the thing everyone photographs, and for good reason. It sits wedged in a natural crevice between two canyon walls and swimming there feels slightly surreal. Dinner at Saffron was another highlight for me, proper Thai food cooked by Thai chefs, something you would not expect to find in the Saudi desert. Harrat is the more casual option and does Arabic dishes well. My advice: book at least one destination dinner out in the dunes, it costs extra but you will remember it long after the room rate is forgotten.

Plan a minimum of three nights. Hegra alone deserves half a day, and you want time left for Elephant Rock at sunset, the old town and a stop at Maraya, the mirrored concert hall that photographs like nothing else on earth. Tours to the heritage sites need to be booked in advance, this is not a destination where you wing it on arrival. Getting there is easier than most people think, with direct flights into AlUla from Dubai and quick connections via Riyadh or Jeddah.

I would send couples here first, especially anyone who has already done the Maldives and Dubai circuit and wants something with more substance behind the luxury. It also works surprisingly well for small groups of friends, the two and three bedroom pool villas are built for exactly that. Skip it if you need a big resort with endless facilities and nightlife. AlUla is about silence, scale and history, and Banyan Tree understood that assignment completely.

Most nationalities can get a Saudi tourist visa online in a matter of minutes, so the paperwork is far less complicated than people assume. The best time to visit runs from October through April. Summer temperatures regularly climb past 40 degrees, while winter evenings in the desert get genuinely cold, so pack layers even when the forecast looks warm.

Saudi Arabia is an alcohol free destination, which surprisingly few travelers realize before booking. The mocktail programs at the resort are excellent, but set that expectation upfront. Dress codes are relaxed for tourists these days, though modest clothing is appreciated when visiting the old town and heritage sites. Around the resort and pool, normal resort wear is completely fine.

Book your Hegra and Dadan tours before you arrive, entry is only possible with an official guide. Finally, do not underestimate distances. The sights look close together on a map but you will want a car to move between them comfortably.

For more travel inspiration and insider recommendations, check out our Saudi Arabia page.