Velázquez & A Magnificent Courtyard: A Stay at Palacio de los Duques in Madrid

This is the rare hotel where everything feels polished and refined, but not overly formal. Housed in a former palace and convent, the building wraps around a peaceful inner courtyard that becomes a magical gathering spot at night. The location couldn’t be better—it’s just behind the Opera House and a few minutes’ walk to the Royal Palace and Gran Vía, yet it is a calm and peaceful retreat from bustling Madrid. There is a luxury car that is available to drive guests around Madrid, so calling the concierge a bit before you want to head out (or before you want to be picked up) will allow you to skip an Uber.

The MAGICAL courtyard in the evening

The standout feature is the above-mentioned courtyard. By day, it’s a leafy hideaway with a mix of sun and shade. By night, it transforms into a lively, elegant scene filled with locals and guests enjoying cocktails or dinner under the trees. You’ll also find a bright interior solarium lounge (often with mellow live music), and up on the rooftop, a lovely teak-surrounded pool, hot tub, and bar with sweeping views of Madrid. Bali beds are available to reserve—definitely do so in advance if you’re visiting in summer.

The solarium off the lobby

The rooftop pool, Bali beds, and Palace rooftops

The hotel’s elevated service tier is called RedLevel, and it is absolutely the experience I would recommend. RedLevel rooms include an exclusive lounge and terrace area (with all-day snacks, top-shelf drinks, and one of my favorites: Ruinart champagne), a dedicated check-in experience and early check-in when available, priority concierge support, and a refined VIP check-in process. The private little wing of the courtyard for RedLevel guests was worth the price of admission on its own, but overall it really felt like true VIP status across the board.

RedLevel Lounge all-day snacks

I stayed in a RedLevel Deluxe Room, which was spacious, modern, and extremely comfortable. The bed was incredibly plush but firm enough that I slept like an absolute rock; the freestanding soaking tub was deep and filled up quickly; there was an enormous closet with a robe and slippers; and the toiletries were locally produced and luxurious.

RedLevel Deluxe, featuring Velázquez and a fantastic soaking tub (heavy curtains separate the glass-enclosed bathroom from the bedroom as desired)

RedLevel Deluxe seating and welcome champagne, personalized note, and snacks

One thing to note about the rooms: All rooms (and the hotel’s common areas) prominently feature artwork by Velázquez, in keeping with the hotel’s theme. Some pieces can feel dark or dramatic, so it may be worth requesting a room with more neutral artwork depending on your taste. If you are looking for extra space or privacy, the RedLevel One-Bedroom Master Suite is located in a quieter wing and offers a more tucked-away experience with a similar aesthetic.

The on-site restaurant El Jardín de los Duques is upscale and absolutely fantastic in both the vibe and quality of the food. Service across the board was excellent: warm, polished, and quietly attentive. The neighborhood around the hotel feels authentically European and wonderfully walkable. You’re just minutes from some of Madrid’s biggest sights, but the hotel still feels like a true retreat.

A typical Palacio street

I absolutely recommend booking a RedLevel room if you’re staying here. The upgraded check-in, dedicated concierge team, quiet lounge with champagne and snacks, and private courtyard terrace access all add up to a much more elevated (and relaxing) experience.

A few practical notes: Ópera metro station is just steps from the hotel and makes getting around the city easy, but this is also a very walkable area. You can reach the Royal Palace, Gran Vía, and Plaza Mayor on foot in minutes. If you’re visiting during high season (May through early fall), it’s worth reserving a rooftop Bali bed in advance.

And one Madrid tip in general for what quickly became a surprise-favorite European city: Make sure to build in some time to simply stroll around. This is a city that really lends itself to wandering—with stops for coffee, jamón ibérico, or a delicious vermut as you meander the picturesque streets from museum to market to garden.

For more inspiration and insider recommendations, visit our Madrid page.