Curator’s statement
There is nothing particularly chic about elbowing your way past influencers in sequins dancing on tables. While I can absolutely curate that version too, this is not it. What I am sharing here is the understated South of France, for those who care more about design than DJ booths and more about long lunches than loud entrances.
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Where to stay in the South of France
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Saint-Tropez in August is a spectacle. Pampelonne is beautiful, the beach clubs are iconic, and yes, it can be fun. But if you are flying across the Atlantic: There is more to see!
If you want the French Riviera with depth and breathing room, here is how I would do it.
Start in Marseille
Tuba Club is the place to stay. Built directly into the rocks in Les Goudes, it feels raw and elemental—concrete, salt, fishermen heritage, and water so clear it looks unreal. Long seafood lunches slide naturally into afternoon swims, and aperitif is taken on the rocks, not behind velvet ropes. It is design-forward but unpretentious, the kind of place that feels discovered rather than performed. Plus, don't miss La Cabanon de Paulette, a local spot for sunset and the best mussels for super low prices.
Long lunches at Tuba Club
Mussel heaven in Marseille
Cassis
From there, head to Cassis and check into Les Roches Blanches. Perched above the sea facing Cap Canaille, it delivers Riviera glamour without the frenzy. Mornings are for quiet swims before the boats arrive, afternoons for exploring the calanques, and evenings for pétanque at golden hour. Take a boat to L’Île Verte for lunch and come back sun-soaked. Cassis has fisherman energy and pastel facades—elegant but grounded.
Saint-Raphaël
If you prefer something even more pared back, Les Roches Rouges between Cassis and Saint-Raphaël is terracotta minimalism at its best. The natural seawater pool carved into the rocks is reason enough to book. Days are simple here—strong coffee, long swims, coastal drives along the Corniche d’Or, and small villages that still feel local. It is the Riviera without choreography.
For something more romantic, Château de Théoule offers a completely different mood. A restored castle directly on the water with a private beach club and serious culinary ambition, it feels intimate and grown-up. Breakfast overlooking the sea sets the tone for slow days and elegant evenings in a two-star Michelin restaurant.
Dream pool at Chateau de Theoule
Breakfast at Chateau de Theoule
Need to know
I have been to the South of France over 10 times and would love to share my hidden spots with you!
For more inspiration and insider recommendations, visit our South of France page.
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Louisa Turner
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