36 Hours in Lima: A Culinary Pilgrimage

Lima is the gateway to Peru's ancient wonders, yes, but an inspection trip earlier this year also revealed to me a vibrant gastronomic powerhouse. A mere 36 hours offers a tantalizing glimpse into why Peru has quietly positioned itself as South America's most compelling culinary destination.

Friday evening

• 6 pm: Coastal promenade and sunset aperitif
  Upon arrival, depending on your preference, settle into either the artistic elegance of Hotel B in Barranco, a stunning boutique hotel steeped in history and charm, or the contemporary chic of Souma Hotel in Miraflores, boasting excellent on-site dining options and a superb rooftop bar and lounge with expansive Pacific Ocean views. Once settled, orient yourself with a stroll along the Malecón (clifftop promenade) in Miraflores (easily accessible from Souma, or a short taxi from Hotel B). The Malecón offers sweeping Pacific views and dramatic sunsets. I recommend seeking out a local spot for an early evening chilcano, Peru's refreshing pisco-based cocktail, perhaps enjoyed at Souma's rooftop bar, accompanied by tequeños (crispy wonton wrappers filled with cheese).

The Souma’s sundowner views are beyond compare

• 8 pm: A revelation of Peruvian terroir
  For your inaugural Lima dining experience, venture to Kjolle. Helmed by chef Pía León, this establishment offers a profound exploration of Peru's diverse ecosystems through meticulously crafted dishes. Ingredients sourced from the Andes to the Amazon are treated with reverence and presented with an artistic sensibility. The tasting menu provides an immersive journey through the country's unique biodiversity. Making a reservation well in advance an absolute necessity. Kjolle is located in the vibrant Barranco district, sharing the same iconic space as Central (ranked number one on the World’s Best Restaurant list of 2023).

My mini-foodie 10-year-old was enthralled with Kjolle’s dish upon dish of Amazonian fare!

Culinary magic from the world’s 16th-best restaurant, Kjolle

Saturday

• 9 am: Historical immersion and morning fuel
  Begin the day in Lima's historic center, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Wander through the Plaza de Armas, admiring the colonial architecture of the Government Palace and the cathedral. For a traditional start, seek out a local panadería for a pan con chicharrón (pork belly sandwich) and a robust Peruvian coffee.

• 11 am: Pre-Columbian masterpieces
  A brief taxi ride will transport you to the Larco Museum, an essential stop for understanding Peru's rich cultural heritage. Its extensive collection of pre-Columbian artifacts, including an intriguing array of pre-Incan erotic ceramics, provides context to the country's history and artistry. Allow ample time to explore its well-curated galleries and colorful gardens.

The Larco Museum holds a staggering wealth of pre-Incan and Incan treasures

• 1 pm: The quintessential ceviche
  No visit to Lima is complete without experiencing authentic Peruvian ceviche. For lunch, walk a few steps to Larco Museum’s gorgeous garden café and indulge in this national dish. The interplay of fresh sea bass marinated in lime and spices (playfully called “leche de tigre” or “tiger’s milk”), the subtle heat of ají limo peppers, and the contrasting textures of sweet potato and corn create a vibrant and unforgettable culinary experience. Pair it with a glass of chilled chicha morada.

• 3 pm: Barranco's bohemian charm
  Dedicate the afternoon to exploring the artistic district of Barranco. If you've chosen Hotel B, you're already perfectly situated. If staying in Miraflores, a short taxi ride will transport you to its colorful streets, where you can admire the street art and browse the independent galleries. The Puente de los Suspiros (Bridge of Sighs) offers nice views and a touch of romantic lore.

• 8 pm: A pioneer of modern Peruvian cuisine
  For an evening of refined dining, secure a table at Astrid & Gastón. Chef Gastón Acurio is widely credited with elevating Peruvian cuisine to international acclaim. The restaurant's tasting menu offers a sophisticated exploration of Peruvian flavors, blending traditional techniques with contemporary innovation. (Astrid & Gastón is located in San Isidro, easily accessible from both hotel locations).

Sushi and a Pacific view at Hotel Souma’s Kimo

Sunday

• 9 am: Market exploration
  Experience local life with a visit to a traditional market. The Mercado de Surquillo offers a sensory feast of fresh produce, exotic fruits, and local delicacies. It's an opportunity to witness the vibrant energy of Lima's culinary heart.

• 11 am: Nikkei excellence, South America's finest
  Before departing, indulge in a remarkable Nikkei (people of Japanese descent living outside of Japan) experience at Maido in Miraflores. Currently ranked number five on The World's 50 Best Restaurants list and holding the coveted title of number one in South America, Maido offers a masterful fusion of Peruvian and Japanese culinary traditions. Chef Mitsuharu Tsumura's innovative tasting menus showcase the harmonious blend of these two distinct gastronomic worlds, providing a truly exceptional and unforgettable final meal.

I would add Lima at the end of a gorgeous Peru excursion. The food scene is without a doubt some of the best in the world, and what better way to end a memorable trip!

For more inspiration and insider recommendations, visit our Peru page.