Lisbon With a Little One: A 5-Day Baby-Friendly Itinerary

We flew into Lisbon and quickly learned our first lesson: book a private transfer if you’re traveling to Portugal with a baby. We opted for the metro instead and ended up lugging suitcases plus baby gear up and down stairs. Thankfully, locals were incredibly kind and helped us along the way—but next time, we’d absolutely pre-arrange a transfer.

Martinhal Lisbon Chiado

We walked from the metro to our hotel, Martinhal Lisbon Chiado, and couldn’t have picked a better home base. This family-focused aparthotel is designed with parents in mind. Our room had in-unit laundry (a lifesaver for baby blowouts), a kitchenette with a dishwasher for bottles, and thoughtful baby amenities including a crib, bottle warmer, high chair, changing pad, kids’ utensils, and more.

The hotel also offers a kids club, babysitting services, and an on-site restaurant with breakfast included. We didn’t use the babysitting services, but it’s a great option for parents wanting a night out. I can’t recommend Martinhal enough for families.

Exploring Chiado

The rest of the day was spent casually exploring the Chiado neighborhood. For dinner, we headed to Time Out Market, which is perfect after a travel day—no reservations required, plenty of food options, and an easy in-and-out experience.

Here we also went to Manteigaria, where we had our first of many Pasteis de Nata, a traditional Portuguese egg custard pastry. Highly recommend sprinkling some cinnamon on top! We wrapped up the evening early and made it back just in time for Baby K’s bedtime.

We booked a private tour to Nazaré and Óbidos, which made the day incredibly smooth with a baby. Our guide, Andre, was fantastic, and the private setup allowed Baby K to nap and feed comfortably in the car. A car seat was provided, which made everything feel seamless and stress-free.

Nazaré

Our first stop was Nazaré, about 1.5 hours drive from Lisbon. Known for its dramatic coastline and world-famous big-wave surfing, Nazaré attracts surfers from around the globe. My husband grew up surfing, so this was a bucket-list item for him!

We first grabbed a quick breakfast at Terrasse, a charming café in town, then placed Baby K in the carrier and walked down to the lighthouse to watch the surfers. It can get extremely windy along the coast, and you’ll often feel ocean spray in the air, so layers are essential—ideally something warm, windproof, and waterproof. We were lucky enough to catch a prime surf day and watched surfers tackle waves close to 60 feet tall!

Afterward, we wandered through the town center, did a bit of shopping, and then continued on to Óbidos.

Óbidos

Óbidos is a beautifully preserved medieval walled town. We had lunch at Capinha d’Óbidos, recommended by our guide, and it did not disappoint. The bread is baked fresh in a traditional medieval oven, and we enjoyed simple but delicious sandwiches. After feeding Baby K, we explored the town at a relaxed pace.

Before leaving, be sure to try Ginja, the local cherry liqueur served in a chocolate cup!

Evening in Lisbon

Back in Lisbon, we rested briefly at the hotel before heading out for dinner at Sacramento do Chiado, just a short walk away. Portugal is famous for bacalhau (codfish), and I ordered a dish featuring cod prepared three different ways—it truly felt like three cuisines in one plate.

We ended the evening early and got Baby K to bed at a reasonable hour, with all naps that day happening either in the car or in the carrier.

We went on a free guided walking tour with a local tip-based tour operator led by Lisbon natives. It’s a great way to experience multiple neighborhoods and learn about Lisbon from a local perspective—and yes, it really is free (tips encouraged).

• Parent tip: This tour lasts 2.5–3 hours and involves a lot of walking, so it’s best done with a baby carrier rather than a stroller.

The tour ended at Miradouro da Graça, a scenic terrace beside a historic church with panoramic views of the city. Comfortable walking shoes are essential, and breaks are limited, so plan feeding and diaper changes ahead of time.

Afternoon

After the tour, we grabbed lunch at O Satélite, a no-frills, cash-only local spot recommended by our guide. The food was simple, quick, and satisfying—perfect after a long morning on your feet.

We then made our way toward Castelo de São Jorge, Lisbon’s iconic hilltop castle offering insight into the city’s Moorish history. The steep climb and uneven paths make this a carrier-only stop. We found it very manageable but wouldn’t recommend it with a stroller.

Evening

After exploring, we headed back to the hotel to rest and freshen up. For dinner, we kept things easy with another visit to Time Out Market, followed by a relaxed nightcap at ByTheWine, a cozy wine bar just across from our hotel—Baby K in tow. It was a later night than usual, but she handled it beautifully.

We spent one day exploring Belém, an easy train ride from central Lisbon and one of the flatter, more stroller-friendly areas around the city.

Our first stop was Jeronimos Monastery, a UNESCO-listed site dating back to the 1500s. We downloaded an audio guide and wandered the cloisters while Baby K napped in the carrier.

For lunch, we headed to A Marítima do Restelo for a comforting fish stew (the restaurant’s most popular dish, and I can definitely see why!). The dining room was packed with locals (always reassuring), and the staff kindly seated us in a quieter corner where we could tuck our stroller out of the way. Cozy, unfussy, and genuinely welcoming.

Then, of course, we made our way to Pastéis de Belém, the original bakery serving pastel de nata since 1837! The line was long but moved fast.

• Pro tip: If you take your pastel to the park across the street, guard it with your life. The birds are aggressive, and one swooped down and took my tart straight out of my hand—and we watched it happen to several other tourists. Consider yourself warned!

If you have extra time in Belém, you could also visit the Quake Earthquake Museum or stop at Mirari or LX Factory on the way back for shopping, coffee, or a casual drink.

Return to Lisbon

After a quick hotel reset, we had dinner at Páteo, a stylish yet relaxed spot serving modern Portuguese dishes—elevated but still comfortable with a baby in tow.

For our final full day, we booked a private tour to Sintra and Cascais (the same company we used for Nazaré).

Sintra

Sintra feels like stepping into a fairytale with the Pena Palace, perched above the town. The morning was gray and drizzly, but our guide, Miguel, timed it perfectly to avoid the crowds and—even better—dropped us right at the entrance so we could skip the steep uphill walk.

After touring the palace, we stopped at a local restaurant that Miguel grew up visiting and tried Vinho Verde for the first time. We loved it so much we brought a bottle home!

Cascais

We ended the day in Cascais, a charming coastal town with beachy energy and colorful streets. We strolled the lively town center, grabbed gelato, and soaked in the ocean views before heading back to Lisbon.

If I could redo one thing? I’d stay overnight in Cascais. After a few busy sightseeing days, a slower ocean evening would have been a perfect addition to our trip.