Curator’s statement
It's no secret that Spanish wine is my absolute favorite, so it only makes sense that driving through the Rioja region of Spain (twice!) was a dream come true. You can easily spend two to three days in the region, and it is perfectly situated between other must-see cities such as Barcelona, San Sebastián, Bilbao, and Madrid. The landscape is stunning, the people are charismatic, and, of course, the wine is spectacular.
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Where to stay in Rioja
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Things to do in Rioja
Hotel Marqés de Riscal, voted the number-one winery in the world
Visit the "Haro Triangle," aka "Rioja Row," to find the heavy hitters of Spanish wine, including Muga, La Rioja Alta, CVNE, and R. López de Heredia.
Book as many winery tours as you can! Many of the wineries offer tours in English at least once per day, and it's a good idea to book in advance. We opted for tours at CVNE and Bodegas Manzanos, and we visited several others for tastings. Most tasting rooms open around 11 am.
Book a stay and visit the Spa at Marqués de Riscal. Designed by Frank Gehry, this is perhaps the most unique hotel in all of Spain. Each stay includes a winery tour, and special perks often include a spa credit. We swam in the delightfully warm indoor pool and booked massages at the spa. And, this year, we took the time to walk through the quiet village of Elciego, where the aroma of fresh baked bread is all that fills the narrow streets in the early morning.
Take a stroll around Haro, the capital of Rioja. Sit outside on the plaza for a late lunch accompanied by excellent wine and intriguing people-watching.
Places to eat & drink in Rioja
Nublo Restaurant is located in a stunning 16th-century palace
Nublo: Located in Haro, our first Michelin-star experience did not disappoint! Our visit included an introduction to the kitchen where the delicious 16 (!) courses are prepared, and where you'll only find wood-burning ovens. The service was impeccable and the pricing was quite reasonable!
1860 Tradición: Located in the Hotel Marqués de Riscal and featuring an à la carte menu. Pro tip: if you don't want to pay extra for a bottle of wine with dinner, you may bring the complimentary bottle from your room! We ate perfectly prepared fish dishes and an incredible baked apple dessert with honey ice cream.
Gran Reserva Restaurant: Located in the Palacio Tondón Hotel, we had a casual yet delicious dinner. The hotel sits on the Ebro River, which provides the most serene view from both the restaurant and the guest rooms.
Restaurante Popy's in Haro: We desperately needed a good lunch in between wine tours, and thank goodness we stumbled upon this gem! We ate a very satisfying meal that included a large salad and pizza to share, and it was just what we needed to refuel mid-day. If you're headed to Bodegas Manzanos, Popy's is conveniently nearby!
Need to know
I definitely recommend renting a car and driving through Rioja. The roads are easy (and fast!), and this allows the most flexibility when visiting several different towns. Parking at Marqués de Riscal was complimentary, as was parking at Palacio Tondón; however, there is no designated lot. We happened to have dinner reservations in Haro during a local festival (there are SO many local festivals in Rioja!), so parking was tough, but we were told that there were only five taxis in the area, so driving was our best option.
I recommend booking winery tours in advance as they tend to fill up during the busy season, but if you want to squeeze in a few tastings in between tours, it's super easy to just "winery hop" to the different tasting rooms. Many of the wineries also have outdoor patios where you can find lunch or a snack, and of course there is no shortage of wine shops if you want to pick up a souvenir or two.
Travel Advisor
Julia Booher
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For more inspiration and insider recommendations, visit our Rioja page.