La Grande Bellezza: Rome's Aventine Hill & Beyond

Municipal Rose Garden

On ground dedicated to floral cultivation since ancient times, and that also housed a Jewish cemetery and vegetable garden, Il Roseto provides a perfectly scented ascent in May when the roses—over 1,000 varieties from around the world—are in full bloom. At your back, the emperor's palace; ahead, elegant tranquility. Beneath your feet, as everywhere in Rome, centuries of the cycle of life.

Giardino degli Aranci

This lovely little park is a simple treat at any time of the day. Come early and relax with the locals walking their dogs, and get the unforgettable vista all to yourself. Quench your thirst at one of the thousands of nasoni (drinking fountains). Let your bambini chase pigeons across the gravel while you inhale the orange blossom perfume and soak in the sounds of buskers that often frequent the overlook. Have an afternoon merenda e pisolino (rest) or golden hour photo shoot—Parco Savello is the perfect spot.

The Keyhole

This site features prominently on many tourists' must-do lists, but I wouldn’t recommend coming at the height of the day. While it is charming, you want to spend your time and energy wisely. Come early, walk right up to the door, and take your time with the magical, miniature view.

Basilicas of Santa Sabina & Santa Prisca

The first was founded in the early fifth century CE and offers an austere but welcoming respite from the Roman sun. The second is a humble monument to one of the first Christian martyrs of the city, baptized by St. Peter and beheaded nearby along Via Ostiense. The Vatican, they are not, but certainly have historic significance worth your time as you explore the neighborhood.

The Palatine Hill

This extensive site is part of the same ticket for the Forum and the Colosseum but offers a much more leisurely experience. While a guided tour is recommended to appreciate the profound history of the place said to be the foundation of Rome, it can be enjoyed for its sheer aesthetic majesty. With several dramatic lookouts across Circo Massimo, Piazza Venezia, and the Foro Romano, the Palatine offers a tranquil way to take in the magnitude of the ancient city without the lines and crush of tourists.

The Protestant Cemetery

Nestled within high walls that keep the bustle of Testaccio at bay, this small gem abounds with beautiful statuary and hushed shadows. Keats and Shelley are two of its most famous denizens, but perhaps not more so than the feral cat colony that rules the roost. The Piramide Caius Cestius soars dramatically up one side, contrasting with the quiet intimacy of the resting place. With palm trees and pomegranates, this remains a sweet place to beat the heat.

Mercato Testaccio

If you’re like me, heading to a neighborhood market is one of my favorite ways to encounter a city. While tourists certainly make their way here for a food tour and a famous panino, the market is very much an everyday Roman affair. From haircuts, scarves, and underwear, to produce, pastries, fish, and pizza, this market has something for everyone. Come for uno spuntino, stay for the ambiance.

Centrale Montemartini

Situated in a renovated power plant in Garbatella, just south of Testaccio, Il Centrale is a fantastic juxtaposition of the ancient and the modern. Part of the Capitoline museum complex, the soaring halls present antiquities against the backdrop of industrialization. If you come down this way, perhaps pop into Pantera for pizza al taglio, or La Casetta Rossa, a third space coop restaurant.

Baths of Caracalla

If you enjoy imagining the grandeur of Ancient Rome from within her ruins, the spectacular Baths of Caracalla are for you. An easy walk from Circo Massimo, you can breathe easy in the dark green shade of the spa complex and surrounding trees. Constructed in the third century CE, out of use by the sixth, and caving in by the ninth thanks to an earthquake, the Terme still stun and serve as the home of the Opera di Roma during the summer months.

Monte dei Cocci / Monte Testaccio

For true Romaphiles who like to dig a little deeper, a visit to this mountain of broken amphorae requires a special reservation and guide. First an ancient landfill, then in medieval times the site of public games, the hill gives insight into the daily appetites and mercantilism of l’ombelico del mondo (the center of the world).

Volpetti / Taverna Volpetti

A mainstay neighborhood salumeria, replete with prosciutto swinging from the ceiling, and now including the addition of a cozy taverna offering traditional Roman dishes and others with a twist. Although the family sold the business a decade ago, it endures as a perfect place to gather the makings of a picnic on a spring day, when flowers are bursting out and spilling over every wall. If Volpetti is anything less than perfect, I don’t want to know—nostalgia burns hot with this one.

Piatto Romano

In this neighborhood known for its quinto quarto (“fifth quarter”) cuisine, meat—especially organ meats—takes center stage. Testaccio was Rome’s slaughterhouse and Rome’s poor ate the offcuts, building a formidable cuisine from the bottom up. This lovely ristorante does many of the classics well, but also offers a welcome selection of seasonal veggies. Sit outside along the sidewalk and enjoy a real buona sera.

Trapizzino

The Testaccio location of the famed street food institution, you cannot go wrong with an Ichnusa and a couple trapizzini. Whether you’re just too full for a multi-course sit-down, or you’ve been out late at a club, nothing beats a fluffy-crispy bread pocket stuffed with white wine chicken cacciatore, scapece e stracciatella, or a variety of other Roman faves. Quick, easy, filling, satisfying. Bullseye.

Ruver Teglia Frazionata

If you’re a fan of pizza al taglio / in teglia (pizza by the cut, baked in a shallow rectangular pan), swing by this microscopic pizza laboratory, right around the corner from the Metro and across from the FAO (UN Food and Agriculture Organization). Its founder is a disciple of the famed pizzaiolo wizard Gabriele Bonci, and the quality ingredients and imaginative combinations do the maestro proud. As they say right on the kiosk, “Less Drama, More Pizza.”

Claudio Torce

In a sea of neon tourist gelato, Signore Torce is a true genius, sourcing premium ingredients that sing out with the flavors of exactly what they are. Whether classic or imaginative, his flavors will leave you satisfied that you have tasted some of the best on offer. His flagship is in the EUR district and offers a larger variety, but with around 40 flavors at the Aventino location, you will have more than enough to tantalize you.

Pasticceria Barberini

After your early-morning visit to the Keyhole, you may want a cornetto e cappuccino al bar. Pasticceria Barberini has it all—pastry delights, gelato, an un buon caffè. Watch the passersby as you fuel up for the next stop on your walk.

Trattoria Perilli

An old-school neighborhood haunt with white tablecloths, charming service, and those classic Roman dishes you crave. Not flashy, but just the sort of place your thoughts will drift back to when reminiscing about your Roman days.

Flavio al Velavevodetto

If you did somehow make it to Monte dei Cocci, perhaps you also made a reservation for Flavio’s, built right into the side of the mountain. Another popular destination with locals and tourists alike, it’s had its ups and downs over the years, but persists as a quality mainstay of cucina romana.