Curator’s statement
If you think Venice is all gondolas and pastel sunsets, that’s only half the story. The other half is dramatically slashed horizons, figures tumbling from shadow into light, and one Renaissance painter who turned the city into his stage. That painter was Tintoretto—Jacopo Robusti (1518–1594)—a man who famously wanted “the drawing of Michelangelo and the color of Titian.” Instead, he gave Venice something bolder: art that feels like motion, urgency, and narrative lightning. His work doesn’t just live in churches and palaces—it haunts them. And this is why I adore Venice!
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Things to do in Venice
2023 Venice, Joyce Johnson
Get lost on purpose in Cannaregio. This is where Venice exhales. I love wandering the quiet canals near Madonna dell’Orto and imagining Tintoretto walking these same streets—it feels intimate and unfiltered.
Spend an unhurried morning inside Scuola Grande di San Rocco. This is my favorite immersive art experience in Venice. The scale, the shadow, the chaos—you don’t just look at the paintings, you feel surrounded by them.
Stand beneath Il Paradiso inside Doge’s Palace. It’s overwhelming in the best way. I always tell clients to look at the motion before the faces—Tintoretto painted power as movement.
Take the vaporetto down the Grand Canal at golden hour. It’s the most affordable “tour” in Venice, and I genuinely think it’s better than a scripted experience. Watching palazzi glide by as the light shifts is cinematic and grounding all at once.
Cross to San Giorgio Maggiore for the quietest wow-moment. Tintoretto’s Last Supper here feels radical and modern. Afterward, I climb the bell tower for one of my favorite panoramic views of Venice.
Do a slow cicchetti crawl in Cannaregio. I love starting at Al Timon or Vino Vero and letting the evening unfold naturally. Small bites, great wine, zero rush—it’s how Venetians socialize.
Arrive (or depart) by private water taxi at least once. Yes, it’s a splurge—but gliding up to your hotel by boat feels like entering your own film. I recommend it especially for first arrivals or milestone trips.
Take a day trip to Burano for color after shadow. After days of dramatic Renaissance paintings, Burano’s saturated houses feel joyful and restorative. It’s a perfect visual reset.
Sit in a quiet campo at dusk with no agenda. Some of my favorite Venice moments aren’t “sights” at all. Just a glass of wine, the sound of footsteps on stone, and watching the sky soften over the canals.
Places to eat & drink in Venice
Venice 2023, Joyce Johnson
Ristorante Riviera (Dorsoduro): I love this for a refined Venetian dinner with Grand Canal views. It feels elegant but never stuffy, and the seafood tasting menus are beautifully executed.
Enoteca Ai Artisti (Dorsoduro): Intimate and thoughtful, this is one of my favorite spots for a slow, wine-forward dinner after an art-heavy day at Scuola Grande di San Rocco. It’s creative without being precious.
Vino Vero (Cannaregio): Natural wines, excellent cicchetti, and a relaxed local crowd—this is exactly where I love landing after exploring near Madonna dell’Orto. Casual, cool, and unfussy.
La Zucca (Santa Croce): Venetian cooking that feels warm and homey. It’s a great reset after a dramatic day inside Doge’s Palace.
Gelateria Nico (Zattere): My go-to sunset gelato stop. Order a gianduiotto and sit facing the water—it’s one of those simple Venice moments that stays with you.
Trattoria al Gatto Nero (Burano): If you take a day trip to Burano, this is the lunch reservation I recommend. Classic lagoon seafood, colorful surroundings, and worth the boat ride.
Sullaluna (Cannaregio): Part wine bar, part bookshop, part cozy hideaway. I love it for a relaxed evening that feels slightly removed from the main tourist flow.
Hotel bar at Palazzo Venart Luxury Hotel: Even if you’re not staying here, it’s a beautiful place for a quiet cocktail. I often suggest one elevated hotel bar moment during a Venice trip—it balances out the casual cicchetti nights.
Need to know
Practical travel notes
Vaporetto: Multi-day passes are worth it if you’re hopping between islands and neighborhoods.
Private water taxis: Perfect for arrivals, departures, or dramatic moments that feel intentional.
Fees: Churches generally ask modest donations (€3–€5). Scuola Grande di San Rocco and Doge’s Palace require tickets.
How to use the Vaporetto in Venice
The easiest way to move through the city like you know what you’re doing. It’s part of the experience. It’s the most affordable way to glide through Venice, and if you use it well, it feels effortless.
Here’s exactly how I approach it.
Buy the right ticket
This matters. If you’re staying more than a day, do not buy single tickets unless absolutely necessary.
Single ride: ~€7–8 (valid for 75 minutes)
Multi-day passes: 24, 48, 72 hours, or 7 days (much better value if you’re island-hopping)
Where to buy
ACTV ticket machines at major stops (San Marco, Rialto, Accademia, Fondamente Nove)
Ticket booths at larger docks
Venezia Unica app (convenient if you prefer digital)
I usually recommend a 48- or 72-hour pass for clients doing San Giorgio, Murano, or Burano.
Validate before boarding. This is key. Before boarding, tap your ticket or scan your pass at the small electronic validator on the dock. If you don’t, you risk a fine—and inspectors do check.
The takeaway
Venice rewards those who look twice—at shadows, angles, and motion. Tintoretto didn’t just paint Venice—he choreographed it.
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