Wild Beauty: Calabria, Italy’s Rugged Gem

Arco Magno

With the sheer geological majesty near Scalea, this great arch is the perfect destination for those who enjoy a short hike with an amazing payoff followed by a refreshing dip. The views across the lido and the endless azzurro from atop the arch are stunning, and bathing in the cool shadows beneath it is an excellent way to beat the heat. You can also approach by boat or SUP, but the lifeguards will make sure you don’t bring your craft into the protected cove. Due to ecological rules, you cannot camp out on towels like you would at a beach club—come here for a simple swim in one of the most glorious locations the region has to offer.

La Catasta

Part cultural center, part departure point for a variety of bike trips and outdoor excursions in Parco Pollino. This is the perfect place to explore the natural and culinary history of the Pollino, one of the three national parks in Calabria. “The Stack” so-called because the building resembles a modern log cabin or woodpile—offers various educational and social events, exhibitions, nature tours, and a self-service tavola calda, bar (for coffee), and enoteca all rolled into one. The region boasts Slow Food designated products like fagioli poverelli (a local white bean), as well as salumi, grains and breads, cheeses, and wine. All can be sampled in the soaring cafeteria, like a cathedral to local cuisine. Alternatively, you can picnic outside and take in the breathtaking surroundings. Many super local products can be purchased in the store.

Parco della Lavanda

Nearby La Catasta, this lavender park grows a specific variety native to the Pollino. While open year-round, if you come between mid-June, and mid-August, you’ll enjoy the full flowering, a violet ocean in the mountains, and its heady fragrance intensified by the fierce Calabrian sun. Boasting a range of homemade products for home and body, a visit to the park’s shop will stock you up with the pure essence of the Pollino.

Camigliatello Silano

A small ski town in the northern part of Parco Silano, this popular village can prove a surprise to those who associate the region with its 800 kilometers of gorgeous coastline. Picture alpine lodges with towering firs—this isn’t Switzerland. It’s Calabria! Whether you need a break from the sweltering heat at sea level, or you are partial to hitting the slopes, the Sila is a nature lover’s dream. Come up just to visit I Giganti, the massive 350 year-old Larch pines in their own preserve down the road. Even during peak tourist season, you’ll be hard-pressed to hear English spoken as the locals and tourists alike enjoy a passeggiata down Main Street in the cool evenings—sometimes a 30-degree (Farenheit) drop from the beach. At the end of summer, the town celebrates one of the area’s main products—potatoes. Not far out of town, you’ll see farm dogs guarding acres of spuds. Come October, Camigliatello is home to a mushroom festival (sagra), lauding the beautiful porcini that plays an important role in the Calabrian cuisine.

Diamante, Città di Murales

While Tropea and Scilla have rightly captured the tourist’s imagination, Diamante is a glittering destination on the Tyrrhenian coast all its own. With a full exhibition of street art and murals covering everything from politics to poetry, you can easily wander away for a carefree afternoon. Start with a stroll along the lungomare (seafront), then get lost in the literal maze of paintings, some fresh, some faded, many referring to the town’s fishing history. Diamante is also known for its peperoncini - hot peppers strung into sarte, or hanging bundles, that are visually synonymous with the Mezzgiorno. Advertised as “Calabrian Viagra,” these peppers should not be mistaken for the peperoni cruschi, dried sweet peppers found throughout Calabria and neighboring Basilicata and served as antipasti or garnish. Great for a break between beach time, Diamante is truly an unforgettable gem.

Biking the Ciclovia Parchi Calabria

Road warriors on two-wheels with a spirit of adventure will thrill to the incredible vistas to be found riding through Calabria’s three national parks (Pollino, Sila, and Aspromonte), from the toes of Reggio Calabria up to the border with Basilicata. With support centers along the route and rifugi (mountain cabins) for rustic accommodations, the Ciclovia offers the possibility of a very special perspective on one of Italy’s best-kept secrets. Let the aria fresca ruffle your hair as you reenact your own Giro d’Italia that passes through Calabria every May.

The Riace Bronzes and Reggio Calabria

Discovered in 1972 off the coast of nearby Riace, the provenance of these two ancient sculptures is still the subject of scholarly debate. Il Giovane (the young one) and Il Vecchio (the old one) are as striking in their way as “The David” all the way up in Florence. While you’re visiting, make a passeggiata on the sea, walk and gaze across the Strait of Messina to Sicily, or even take a ferry over for the day. Check out the Bergamot museum, the Aragonese Castle, or take a drive to nearby Pentedattilo, a Greco-Calabro ghost town with stories of love and bloodshed.

Dip into thermal springs

One of the great pleasures of visiting Italy is time spent relaxing in natural hot springs or the thermal spas built up around them. Whether soaking out in the wild or at a more upscale facility, little is more soothing, especially after a day spent hiking or biking around the region. Some inspiration from north to south: Cerchiara, Sibarite, Luigiane, Caronte, Sambiase, Bivongi, Galatro, and Antonimina. From “Holy Water” and the Grotto of the Nymphs to the “City of Wellbeing,” (Lamezia Terme), and the “City of Longevity,” (Bivongi), a Calabrian vacation is one that heals from the outside-in.

Sagre of Cipolle Rosse and ‘Nduja

Come August, Calabrians begin to celebrate some of their materie prime, the local products and produce for which the region is known. Ricadi, quite close to Tropea, hosts a party in honor of the town’s famous red onion, sweet enough to chomp raw (check out Stanley Tucci’s experience for proof). Spilinga, also nearby, is the home of ‘nduja, the spicy, spreadable pork sausage found on pizza, in pasta, and everywhere else in between. Potatoes and porcini make an appearance later and further north, with the parties lasting well into autumn.

Make bread with Asfalantea

A local community association in Zungri preserving the old ways of the region, Asfalantea offers bread, pasta, and soap-making workshops, along with the priceless wisdom of the nonni. If you join the association as a supporting member, you may be able to take home some of their homemade products, from ‘Nduja and soppressata, to Vino Nero di Macrone, and local olive oil.

• Almost any agriturismo: While everyone is drawn to “best of” lists, Calabria can be a little impervious to this tactic. The cuisine is deeply traditional, closely tied to the land, extremely flavorful, and reminiscent of your Italian nonna if you are fortunate enough to have one. While there is fine dining in Calabria, some of the most special meals will be humble ones, on farmstays, mingling with Italians on vacation and the family who grows the food. Ask around, get a little lost, and have a long, lingering lunch. Maybe try Agriturismo Costantino or La Rondinella.

• Hotel Barbieri (Altomonte): Located in the Parco Pollino near Cosenza, don’t be misled by the slightly corporate-looking facade. The Barbieri Family grows and produces much of what their kitchen brings to the table, and the result is a close connection to the land. With their own vineyards, salumi, breads, and cheeses on display, Hotel Barbieri provides an authentic Calabrian dining experience.

• Qafiz (Santa Cristina d’Aspromonte): This culinary laboratory deep in the Aspromonte was featured by Stanley Tucci. Self-taught Chef Nino Rossi returned to his native Calabria and re-rooted himself to the land after years away. Foraging for the wild flavors that conjure the natural diversity of the region, he plays with color, texture, and aroma to delight with the unexpected while sharing what is most elemental and seasonal about the place. A different but equally authentic portrayal of Calabrian cuisine.

• La Tavernetta (Camigliatello Silano): Located within a boutique hotel in the heart of the upper Sila, this trattoria offers the bounty of the region’s produce. Expect the famed potatoes, porcini, salumi, caciocavallo, and steaks from the Podolico cows that graze the highlands - true farm-to-table dining with a cozy ambiance.

• Laboratorio del Gusto (Ciro’ Marina): After a hot day baking on the Ionian coast, drop into this little wine bar for Ciro’ DOC wines and traditional Italian recipes with a twist. What could be better than salty breezes, sardella, and a beautiful glass of Calabrian wine, from the nearby Menat vineyard? Come for a coffee in the morning, or an aperitivo in the afternoon—no matter when you drop by, this adorable enoteca has something delicious for everyone.

• DiSotto Wine Bar (Rende / Cosenza): While we’re on the subject of stylish and homey wine bars, this one run by a husband and wife team leaps to mind. Wine is undeniably the star at DiSotto, both regional and from further afield. Small plates compliment the thoughtfully selected vintages, so come unwind and treat yourself to warm, easy hospitality. The proprietors live upstairs, so it genuinely feels as though you’re relaxing in a friend’s kitchen.

• Lo Sputino / aka Paninazzo Silano (Camigliatello Silano): Swing by this local, rustic paninoteca for a very typical Silano sandwich of roasted sausages and potatoes. High-quality ingredients, massive proportions, and fast service are the hallmarks of this tiny ski chalet of a restaurant. Have a beer and enjoy the chatter of this small-town sweet spot.

• Ristorante da Lucio (Cirella): If you’re visiting Diamante for the afternoon, this nearby open-air restaurant on the beach serves a nice seafood lunch with a top-notch atmosphere. The muscardini (tiny fried octopi) are a real treat. This place screams Italian summer.

• Ristorante Dattilo (Strongoli): Come for a tasting and tour of the vineyard and olive grove. Stay for a romantic dinner. Get lost here forever. Dattilo offers a beautiful farm-to-table experience with most of the raw materials cultivated and processed on the property. This is an elegant and tasteful agriturismo and destination wedding venue. The family’s motto says everything about their attitude towards hospitality: Felice e’ colui che fa felici gli altri (happy is the one who makes others happy.)

• Bar Gelateria Ercole (Pizzo): Said to be the birthplace of the tartufo di gelato (ice cream truffle), Bar Ercole is a wonderful place to stop when exploring the string of small west coast towns along the Tyrrhenian coast. Whether filled with chocolate or studded with pistachios, you cannot go wrong with the homemade treats at this family establishment that has been operating since the ‘60s.