A Journey to Waterfalls, Volcanoes & Wellness: Your Guide to La Fortuna, Costa Rica
Curated By
Debra Orringer
Curator’s statement
La Fortuna won me over the moment Arenal Volcano came into view. The sheer impression of it took my breath away. It was as if it was painted onto the sky. We spent ten days here, and most mornings started with howler monkeys booming through the canopy before we'd even finished our coffee. The days filled up fast—hiking the old lava trails, riding out to the waterfalls, spotting sloths tucked high in the branches—and we ended every one of them sunk in the hot springs. What surprised me was how much the place slowed me down. It lets you go hard and rest just as deeply, and for anyone who needs both, this is the corner of Costa Rica I point them to.
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Things to do in La Fortuna
On the lava trail with Arenal Volcano towering behind us, La Fortuna. Photo: Debra Orringer
Hike the base of Arenal Volcano
The trail crosses old lava fields up to a lookout where the volcano fills the whole view, and it is every bit as stunning in person as you hope. Our guide kept catching the small stuff, too, including a parade of leafcutter ants hauling bits of leaf across the path like tiny green flags.
Take the chocolate, coffee & sugar cane tour
You grind cacao, press sugar cane, and taste coffee that was on the plant an hour earlier, and it is far more fun than it sounds. I came home actually understanding what makes a good cup and a little buzzed on fresh cane juice.
Visit a sloth sanctuary
Our guide walked us slowly through the trees until he stopped and pointed, and there it was, a sloth folded into a branch, barely moving. Watching one stretch a long arm out in slow motion was a highlight of the whole trip for me.
Ride horseback to La Fortuna Waterfall
The horses carry you through pasture and across rivers to the trailhead, and then it is a steep set of stairs down to the falls. The climb back up is no joke, but standing in the spray at the bottom with the water thundering down made every step worth it.
Do the canyoning and rafting combo
We spent the morning rappelling down actual waterfalls, equal parts terrifying and incredible, then swapped the harness for a raft and hit the rapids. By the end, we were soaked, grinning, and ready to demolish the lunch they laid out.
Soak in the thermal hot springs
This whole area sits on volcano-heated water, so an evening in the springs is the perfect end to a hard day outside. We never even left the resort, just drifted between the warm pools as it got dark.
Go zip lining (Sky Tram, Sky Trek & Sky Walk)
No trip to Costa Rica is complete without it, and this combo does it right. You cross hanging bridges through the treetops, ride a gondola up for the big volcano view, then fly back down through the canopy on cables long and fast enough to leave you whooping the whole way.
Leave a slow day in there
Some of my favorite hours were the unplanned ones: coffee on the deck, the rainforest loud around us, nowhere to be. Book the spa while you are at it, because the one at Nayara was hands down the best I have ever had. Do not pack every day; the resting is half of why you come.
Places to eat & drink in La Fortuna
A candlelit Mediterranean feast at Ayla, Nayara Tented Camp. Photo: Debra Orringer
Nayara Gardens
Altamira: The flagship full-service restaurant, local ingredients meet world-class cooking. Open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner with a direct view of the volcano.
La Terraza: An open-sided, relaxed spot serving Costa Rican and international dishes.
Asia Luna: An intimate sushi bar and terrace blending Peruvian and Asian flavors, home of the signature Nayara Roll.
Nostalgia: A wine and tapas bar with tasting menus paired to Latin American wines.
Kali Kali: The poolside bar for snacks and cocktails between adventures.
Nayara Springs
Amor Loco: A glamorous garden-to-table restaurant known for its seven-course tasting menu that travels across Costa Rica's regions using French and Japanese techniques. This dinner was amazing, even with the cicada attacking me poolside.
Nayara Tented Camp
Ayla: A treehouse-style fine dining restaurant serving modern Mediterranean with a Middle Eastern touch, overlooking the pool and Arenal Volcano. This was my favorite.
Henry's Bar: A cozy cocktail and spirits bar with a fireplace and library.
Need to know
Getting there: Fly into San Jose (SJO). La Fortuna is about a 3–3.5 hour drive, and a private transfer is the most comfortable way to arrive. A meetand-greet at the airport takes the stress out of customs and connections.
Best time to go: The dry season, roughly December through April, brings the clearest volcano views. The green season is lush, quieter, and lovely, just expect afternoon showers, which are common any time of year.
What to pack: Lightweight layers, a packable rain jacket, quick-dry clothing, broken-in closed-toe shoes, a swimsuit for the hot springs, reef-safe sunscreen, bug repellent, and binoculars for wildlife.
Plan the day around the sky: Book the big adventures like the volcano hike and canyoning for the morning when skies are clearest, and save afternoons and evenings for the hot springs and rest.
Money and tipping: U.S. dollars are widely accepted, but carry some colones for small sodas and tips. Tipping guides around 10–15% is appreciated.
Fitness and pace: Most tours are moderate but several involve real hiking, so ask about requirements when you book and build in recovery time. The humidity is real, so hydrate.
Travel Advisor
Debra Orringer
Debra Orringer
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