Driving Scotland's North Coast 500

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Curated By

Dare to Detour

  • Scotland

  • Road Trip Travel

  • Nature Escapes

  • Off-the-Beaten-Path Travel

  • Adventure Travel

  • Outdoors

Advisor - Driving Scotland's North Coast 500
Curator’s statement

Scotland has carved a special place in my heart. It all began with a deep dive into the Cairngorms National Park while planning a retreat back in 2024. Since then, I’ve returned multiple times, exploring everywhere from Edinburgh’s classic streets to the storied beauty of the Scottish Highlands. My favorite way to truly see Scotland, though? By road. And in particular, on the iconic North Coast 500. In 2025, I set out with a few friends for this adventure. Trust me: This is one of the best trips you can take, and there’s no wrong way to do it. This isn’t golfing or fishing Scotland (though you could add those on!). The NC500 is about the road, the landscapes, and the magical moments in each town along the way.

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Where to stay

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Day 1: Arrive in Inverness

  • Arrive in Inverness via train from either Glasgow, Edinburgh, or London.

  • Check in at Ness Walk.

  • Receive delivery of your Defender 110 at the hotel.

  • If time/energy allow, explore Culloden Battlefield and the Clava Cairns.

  • Have dinner on property at Ness Walk.

Day 2: Inverness to Dornoch

  • Enjoy breakfast at Ness Walk.

  • Make your way to the A9 and head north, crossing over the Moray Firth.

  • Book a whisky tasting at Glenmorangie Distillery (reservations recommended).

  • Eat lunch in Dornoch at Surf & Turf. Best lobster roll of your life, I promise!

  • Check out Dornoch town.

  • Check in at Dornoch Station and have dinner on property.

Day 3: Dornoch to John O'Groats (your longest day of driving)

  • Have breakfast at Dornoch Station.

  • Make your way to Dunrobin Castle. The castle gardens are quite special and they have a resident falconer that flies birds daily. Be sure to have road snacks and/or stop for lunch along the way.

  • Arrive in John O'Groats, the most northeasterly settlement on mainland Britain.

  • Check-in at The John O'Groats Inn and Lodges. If you can, stay in one of the lodges.

  • End the night at the John O'Groats Brewery.

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A note from Dare to Detour

There are limited dining options in John O'Groats. Bringing your own groceries for dinner and breakfast is recommended.

Day 4: John O'Groats to Tongue

  • Grab breakfast at Stacks Deli & Coffee House.

  • Walk along the coastal cliffs to The Stacks of Duncansby.

  • Check out Castle May, the Queen Mother's Scottish home, still frequented by King Charles.

  • Make your way to Dunnet Head and the Stevenson Lighthouse, built by the father of Robert Louis Stevenson. It is said that Robert's time spent at this lighthouse influenced his books "Kidnapped" and "Treasure Island."

  • Make your way to Tongue and either stay at The Tongue Hotel or the recently opened Lundies House by WildLand.

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A note from Dare to Detour

The Keepers Cottages at the Dunnet Head can be rented through AirBnB, which while remote, looked quite cozy to me.

Day 5: Tongue to Gairloch

  • Get breakfast at the Alba Bakery / Burrs of Tongue.

  • Hike the footpath to the ruins of Castle Varrich, which offers tremendous views of the Kyle of Tongue and the surrounding highlands.

  • Head towards Durness and Smoo Cave. On the way, stop at Ceannabeinne Beach and see if the Golden Eagle Zipline is running. Highly recommend this thrill!

  • Check out Smoo Cave, the largest sea cave in Britain, which actually looks like something out of the movie "Pirates of the Caribbean."

  • Pick up a picnic lunch in Durness at The Durness Village Shop. Take your picnic to Balnakeil Bay. Check out the Balnakeil Craft Village after lunch and maybe grab a hot chocolate at Cocoa Mountain.

  • Make your way to Ullapool, specifically to have dinner at the Seafood Shack. You can thank me later.

  • After dinner, roll into Gairloch and stay at the Myrtle Bank Hotel, which doesn't look like much, but is the true heart of the town with wonderful proprietors.

Day 6: Gairloch

We spent a couple of days in Gairloch, hoping to get out on the water to see all the sea life (think harbour porpoise, common dolphin, bottlenose dolphin, minke whale, humpback whale, fin whale, basking shark, and nuclear submarines), but the weather had other plans for us. We visited a WWII museum focused on the nuclear submarine activity in the North Sea, which was fascinating.

  • Hike from Inverewe Gardens around Loch Kernasary to Poolewe, a truly spectacular Highland hike.

  • Enjoy tea at the Bridge Cottage Art Cafe in Poolewe.

  • Head back to Gairloch for dinner at the bar in the hotel, where we enjoyed lively conversation with the localsa trip highlight!

Day 7: Gairloch to Inverness

It's a quick two-hour drive back to Inverness from Gairloch. We continued on to Skye. You could head to Skye, or you could explore the Isle of Mull and its distilleries, or make your way back through Beauly and spend time there. Beauly is located near Loch Ness and the ruins of Urquhart Castle, which is always fun.

  • If you do stop in Beauly, be sure to visit Campbell's of Beauly, Highland outfitters since 1858.

  • Have lunch in Beauly at the Downright Gabbler.

  • Return your vehicle in Inverness and catch the train to Edinburgh.

Need to know

Why the North Coast 500?

The North Coast 500 is 516 miles of wild coastline, ancient castles, dramatic cliffs, and tiny fishing villages—a showcase of Scotland’s raw, untamed beauty. The beauty of the NC500 is how adaptable it is, no matter your travel style or budget.

Choose your own adventure

  • The luxe route: Go all in. Hire a private driver so you can relax and soak in every view, and stay in Scotland's most charming and elevated boutique hotels and inns.

  • The budget way: Rent a camper van in Glasgow or Inverness, and meander slowly with the freedom to camp nearly anywhere you find beautiful. Thanks to Scotland’s “right to roam” laws, you can wild camp almost anywhere. And the Scots will literally let you use the loo if you knock on the door—they take their hospitality seriously!

  • The middle ground (how I did it!): Rent a Land Rover Defender 110 and road trip with friends. Ours was delivered directly to us at the Edinburgh Airport upon our arrival. Mix up nights at cool hotels and hearty inns. It's the perfect blend of comfort and adventure. I recommend 4x4 Hire Scotland.

Timing

While you can easily drive the NC500 in a week, give yourself the luxury of two weeks. This lets you slow down, add on dreamy detours like the Isle of Skye or the ferry out to the Hebrides, and soak it all in.

How to get there

The easiest way is to fly into Glasgow or Edinburgh (EDI), then take the scenic train north to Inverness, the traditional start point of the route. I love Edinburgh, so I spent time there before taking the train to Inverness.

What to pack

It rains in Scotland year-round, so rain gear over layers is an absolute necessity. I purchased rubber boots at the start of our trip and was really happy I did. Embrace the fisherman aesthetic, and you'll be well dressed for almost all places and experiences throughout Scotland, in every season. Pack lightly. There were no elevators in any of the places we stayed during our entire trip, so hauling our baggage up and down stairs became a thing. Some places had valets who helped, but for the most part, we managed on our own. You could keep a larger bag in the car and use a smaller bag for hotel stays. I felt quite safe in every town we stayed in, and I believe our belongings were safe in the car overnight.

  • Embrace the weather: While we experienced a lot of sunshine, we also encountered rain and snow. Being prepared with rain gear and a light puffy helped us stay comfy in all the conditions.

  • Midge season: I would avoid the West Highlands during July and August, the peak of the midge season when they swarm, which isn't pleasant.

  • Book your lodging in advance: Have a general sense of how you want to make the drive and book your lodging in advance. There aren't many lodging options in each village, so hotels book up quickly. If you are camping, you have more flexibility and don't have to book too far in advance.

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Travel Advisor

Dare to Detour

Advisor - Sheryl Wright

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