The Magic of Milos

Our flight from Athens to Milos was delayed about 45 minutes—our first introduction to what I’d call true “island time.” When boarding finally started, we were bussed out onto the tarmac and driven down the runway to our plane. This is common in smaller island airports—since the planes don’t always park right at the gate, passengers hop on an airport bus that takes you directly to your aircraft.

The plane itself was tiny, and we were only in the air for about 30 minutes before touching down in Milos. The airport in Milos is as small and simple as it gets—just one flight at a time, bags pulled off quickly, and you’re on your way.

Checking into paradise: Tania Hotel, Pollonia

We stayed in Pollonia, a quiet fishing village, at the charming Tania Hotel. Even before our arrival, Tania impressed me—the staff were lightning-fast with email replies (even with a seven-hour time difference), answered all my questions, and even arranged transfers for us. Our driver was waiting with a sign (and patiently held on for an extra hour while our flight was delayed). Transfers cost €38 each way, and the drive from the airport to Tania Hotel was about 25 or 30 minutes.

The moment we arrived, we felt at home. The staff (special shoutout to the ever-helpful front desk gentleman, who seemed to work around the clock) greeted us warmly, and we were delighted to find our upgraded oceanfront room already ready. The view? Unreal—sweeping blue sea and mountains, best enjoyed each morning from our private porch while we watched the sunrise. I'm not a morning girlie, but I got up every day for that sunrise view. A bottle of wine was waiting in our fridge, along with fresh water each day, and beach towels were always available on request.

Breakfast at Tania deserves its own love letter: every morning, local Greek women prepared a homemade feast. Fresh-squeezed orange juice, traditional pies, fruits, jams, breads, and more—it was easily as good as any restaurant on the island, and we never once felt the need to look elsewhere for breakfast.

Exploring by buggy: The best way to see Milos

I pre-arranged for an ATV-style buggy from Extreme Motors to be dropped right at our hotel (about €370 for three days). If you take one tip from me—rent transportation in Milos. Roads are narrow, often dirt or gravel, and while cars are fine, having a buggy or ATV makes exploring WAY more fun. We blasted music on our portable speaker, cruised from beach to beach—and honestly, looking back, exploring on our ATV in Milos was one of our favorite parts of the entire trip. Pro tip: The island is windy, so bring a hat that won’t fly off.

That first day, we drove through the towns of Plaka (charming hilltop village), Adamas (the main port), and of course explored our own little Pollonia. Everywhere felt safe and welcoming. Each town had its own unique set of shops and restaurants.

That evening, we lounged at the hotel watching the sunset before heading into Pollonia for dinner at Yialos. The meal was wonderful—I had steak and potatoes, my husband had a Cretan pasta dish, and we shared a fresh Greek salad. Afterward, we drove into Adamas for ice cream (popular stop: Aggeliki Ice Cream Shop). Thanks to our Verizon international plan, our GPS worked perfectly throughout the island—something I highly recommend arranging before your trip.

Another must in Milos is a boat day! After lots of research, we chose Polco Sailing for their rave reviews—and they exceeded every expectation.

From 9 am to 6 pm, we cruised around the island with just 16 other guests (while we passed other boats that looked crammed full). The crew knew everyone’s names, kept our glasses full, and constantly offered food while sharing stories about Milos. We had access to paddle boards, snorkeling gear, and even a GoPro—the crew snapped underwater shots and sent us a full gallery the same day. Breakfast and lunch onboard were authentic Greek dishes, fresh and delicious.

The coastline of Milos is jaw-dropping, and many of the beaches and caves we visited can only be reached by boat, which made it feel extra special. Without question, this was another highlight of our Milos trip.

That night, after docking in Adamas, we drove up to Plaka again for sunset at a rooftop bar, then had dinner at Avli Milos. The food was unforgettable—I had shrimp Saganaki and my husband had a hearty beef dish. We ended with a decadent dessert gifted by our server. Plaka is about 25 minutes from Pollonia, but honestly, we loved the drive so much it felt like part of the adventure.

After sleeping in (the sun from boat day wore us out), we dedicated our last full day to beach-hopping. With towels packed, we set out in our buggy and made a loop:

• Fyropotamos: Crystal waters with a postcard-perfect fishing village backdrop

• Mandrakia: Lunch at Medusa, a spot made famous by celebrity visitor Justin Bieber, with seafood that's as fresh as it gets

• Provatas Bay: Calm waters, great for swimming and sunbathing.

• Fyriplaka: Long, sandy, and dramatic cliffs.

• Tsigrado: An adventure beach that you climb down a ladder to reach (must be really adventurous to do this!)

• Sarakiniko: The “moon beach” of Milos, with surreal white volcanic rock formations

We loved the freedom of bouncing around with no schedule. Some beaches had chairs and umbrellas for rent, but many didn’t—so bring towels!