Alpine Drive to Italian Lakes: Zurich Over the Splügen Pass to Lake Como & Milan in 7 Days

Arrive at Zurich Airport and check into your hotel overlooking Lake Zurich or the surrounding hills. Spend the afternoon strolling through the charming cobblestone alleyways of the Altstadt to admire historic guild houses and sip coffee along the Limmat River. If weather permits, embrace local summer culture down by the water with a refreshing swim in Lake Zurich and time spent basking in the sunlight as daily life unfolds along the shore. I recommend concluding your first evening at 1838, the rooftop bar at Mandarin Oriental Savoy, where you can sip a craft cocktail while watching a breathtaking sunset over the city spires and surrounding Alps.

After a leisurely morning in Zürich, begin your drive south into the canton of Graubünden, where rolling countryside gives way to dramatic alpine peaks. Your first destination is Chur, Switzerland’s oldest city with over 5,000 years of history. Spend an hour wandering its medieval Old Town before stopping for a classic Swiss rösti—pan-fried shredded potatoes topped with a fried egg, melted cheese, and crisp bacon—for lunch.

After lunch, head south to the breathtaking Viamala Gorge, descending wooden staircases deep into the canyon to watch the Hinterrhein River surge through sheer rock walls carved over millennia. Continue through the picturesque Schams Valley to the peaceful mountain village of Vals and check into the 7132 Hotel. Designed by world-renowned architect Peter Zumthor, this modern architectural icon features natural thermal baths carved from local quartzite. Ending your afternoon soaking in the naturally heated mineral pools while gazing out at the surrounding Alps provides the perfect balance of adventure and luxury relaxation before tomorrow’s drive over the Splügen Pass.

Insider tips

• Beat the crowds: Arrive at Viamala Gorge by late morning before tour buses arrive.

• Country hopping: Take a 30-minute detour to Vaduz, Liechtenstein, for castle views and boutique shopping.

• Scenic overlooks: Pull over at unmarked pull-offs along the road to Vals—unplanned stops often offer the best views.

• Total drive time: Approximately four hours (without sightseeing stops)

After breakfast, leave your hotel and make your way toward the beautifully preserved Swiss village of Splügen, the gateway to one of Europe’s most spectacular alpine crossings. As the road begins to climb, ancient stone walls and alpine meadows give way to a series of exhilarating hairpin turns stacking endlessly against the mountainside. Reaching the summit at 6,936 feet places you directly on the Swiss-Italian border, surrounded by sweeping alpine peaks and a look back at the winding road carved into the mountain below.

Crossing into Italy, the landscape transforms almost immediately as the crystal-clear waters of Lago di Montespluga and its tiny stone village come into view. Continue descending through the spectacular San Giacomo Valley to the historic town of Chiavenna for lunch. I highly recommend dining at one of Chiavenna’s traditional crotti—historic stone restaurants built into natural rock walls—to order local specialties like sciatt (crispy buckwheat fritters filled with melted cheese) and fresh bresaola paired with local Valtellina red wine.

After lunch, enjoy the final leg of the drive south as dramatic mountain walls gradually give way to olive groves, grand villas, and the sparkling blue waters of Lake Como, completing an unforgettable transition from peak to lake in a single afternoon.

Insider tips

Pass safety: Drive with extreme caution down the Italian side. The route features narrow, unlit single-lane rock tunnels with sharp 180-degree blind turns—sound your horn lightly before entering tight turns to alert oncoming traffic and ensure headlights are on!

Lake route: Bypass the SS36 highway tunnels at Colico and take the SP72 coastal road for scenic drives through Corenno Plinio and Varenna.

Lake Como is best experienced from the water, so begin your morning aboard a private wooden Riva speedboat. Gliding across the calm morning waters past historic estates—including Villa del Balbianello and the terraced botanical gardens of Villa Carlotta—gives you a perspective on the grand villas and dramatic hillsides that you simply can’t get from land. After your private cruise, step ashore in Bellagio, the “Pearl of Lake Como,” to lose yourself among steep, flower-filled cobblestone lanes and artisan boutiques. Conclude your afternoon with an unhurried lakeside lunch featuring fresh lake fish, handmade pasta, and a glass of local Lombardy wine while watching the classic wooden motorboats drift by.

Insider tips

• Recommended experiences: Private wooden Riva motorboat tour, water view of Villa del Balbianello & Villa Carlotta, Bellagio Old Town, lakeside aperitivo.

• Book your boat tour for early morning when the water is glassy, the lighting for photos is optimal, and Bellagio’s cobblestone alleys are still quiet before afternoon day-trippers arrive.

Dedicate a slow morning to embracing la dolce vita along the shores of the lake. Relax by a floating pool, book a thermal spa treatment at your resort, or visit the historic gardens of Villa Melzi in Bellagio. In the afternoon, take a scenic ferry across to Varenna to wander its romantic waterfront promenade before enjoying fresh pasta at a family-run trattoria.

Insider tips

• Villa Melzi: Visit right when they open at 9 a.m. for calm, uncrowded garden walks and the best morning light for photography.

• Ferry tip: Buy your ferry tickets on the Navigazione Laghi app in advance to skip the long ticket lines at the Bellagio dock.

• Varenna dining: Book lunch in advance at Il Cavatappi for an intimate, authentic meal in Varenna’s old town, or grab a waterfront table along the promenade for classic views.

Depart Lake Como for a leisurely drive south to Milan, Italy’s sophisticated capital of fashion, design, and culture. After returning your rental car, check into your hotel and set out on foot to explore. Begin your afternoon strolling through the magnificent Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, admiring its soaring glass dome and intricate mosaic floors, before wandering into the legendary Quadrilatero della Moda to take in the iconic fashion houses along Via Montenapoleone.

Beyond the boutiques, one of the greatest pleasures of Milan is finding a sidewalk café for a traditional aperitivo and simply people-watching. The city carries an effortless, inspiring style—much like sitting outside a café in New York’s Meatpacking District, but with an unmistakably elegant Italian flair. As evening approaches, make your way toward the Duomo di Milano to watch its dramatic Gothic spires glow in the golden light from a rooftop terrace, raising a final glass to an unforgettable journey from the Swiss Alps down to northern Italy.

Insider tips

• Recommended experiences: Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, Quadrilatero della Moda (Via Montenapoleone), Duomo rooftop terraces, sunset aperitivo overlooking Piazza del Duomo

• ZTL warning & rental drop-off: Return your rental vehicle at Milano Centrale station before heading into the historic center to avoid strict Area C (ZTL) congestion fines—or confirm in advance that your hotel valet will register your license plate upon arrival.

• Rooftop aperitivo: Skip the crowded ground-level tourist cafés in the piazza and reserve a terrace table at Terrazza Duomo 21 or Maio Restaurant (seventh floor of La Rinascente) for prime views of the illuminated spires.

• Duomo timing: Visit the Duomo rooftop terraces in the late afternoon when the golden-hour light hits the marble spires for optimal photos.

• VIP retail: If designer shopping is on your itinerary, ask your travel advisor or hotel concierge to pre-book private boutique appointments along Via Montenapoleone for a seamless, VIP experience.

Spend your final morning taking in Milan’s artistic treasures—whether visiting Leonardo da Vinci’s masterpiece, “The Last Supper,” at Santa Maria delle Grazie or exploring the historic red-brick courtyards of Sforza Castle. Enjoy a farewell lunch savoring classic risotto alla Milanese—saffron-infused rice paired perfectly with rich braised ossobuco—before taking a comfortable private transfer to Milan Malpensa Airport (MXP) for your journey home.

Insider tips

• Recommended experiences: The Last Supper at Santa Maria delle Grazie, Sforza Castle Courtyards, Farewell Milanese lunch

• The Last Supper tickets: Tickets sell out months ahead; ensure these are pre-booked well in advance through your travel advisor or paired with a private art guide.