Curator’s statement
After losing my job of 14 years, I wasn’t sure what came next, but I knew I needed space to breathe. I went to the South of France for three weeks, and it became a quiet balm for a bruised spirit. Slow mornings, untimed seaside strolls, bike rides along the coastline, sunrise swims, and long afternoons under striped umbrellas with a stack of books reminded me who I was outside of work. The summer sun and salt air of the Côte d’Azur brought me back to life, gently and day by day. In this guide, I’m sharing the insider tips, favorite corners, and thoughtful strategies that helped me experience this extraordinary region at its best, even in the height of summer.
The Fora Difference
Book with Deirdre Schwiring to access exclusive perks and experiences on your trip.
Killer perks
Free upgrades, spa credits and more—we got you
Personalized recs
Customized travel planning for your style
Insider knowledge
Expert advice from people who’ve actually been there
Where to stay in Cote d'Azur, France
Unlock perks by contacting Deirdre Schwiring to book your trip.
Things to do in Cote d'Azur, France
Sunrise in Nice
Bike or scooter the coastline
There’s no better way to experience the Riviera than by bike, cruising the seaside paths from Nice toward Villefranche-sur-Mer with the Mediterranean shimmering beside you. It’s equal parts movement, meditation, and magic.
Spend the day at a Beach Club
Lean into the rhythm of the coast with long, lingering afternoons under striped umbrellas. Favorites include Baia Bella, Marinieres Plage, Castel Plage, and Plage Les Canailles, each offering its own blend of charm, sun, and sea.
Get lost in Èze Village
Wander the winding stone lanes of Èze, perched high above the sea, where bougainvillea spills over ancient walls and every turn reveals another cinematic view.
Hike the Sentier du Littoral
Walk a stretch of the coastal path between Cap d’Ail and Monaco or around Cap Ferrat for dramatic cliffs and hidden swim spots most visitors never see.
Eat Italian in Menton
On the Italian border, Menton offers Riviera elegance with unmistakable Italian influence, think handmade pasta, citrus-forward dishes, and long seaside lunches.
Sunrise swims in Nice
Start the day with a swim along Nice’s pebbled shoreline, when the sea is glassy and the Promenade is still quiet. It’s invigorating, grounding, and unforgettable.
Early morning at Cours Saleya (Before 9 am)
After your swim, visit the market in Nice before the crowds arrive, when chefs are still selecting produce and the flower stalls are at their freshest
Escape to Provence
Trade the coastline for lavender fields, hilltop villages, and vineyard lunches with a day trip, or better yet, an overnight—into Provence’s softer, slower landscape. La Colombe d’Or is the perfect hotel for this!
Places to eat & drink in Cote d'Azur, France
Bistrot JAN
Le Restaurant du Couvent (Nice): A serene, design-forward dining experience tucked inside Hôtel du Couvent—don’t miss a pre- or post-dinner cocktail at the intimate bar.
Barrique (Nice): A cozy, natural wine–focused spot with a constantly evolving menu of seasonal, ingredient-driven small plates.
Comptoir du Marché (Nice): A beloved local institution serving market-fresh Niçoise classics in an unpretentious, always-buzzing setting.
Restaurant JAN (Nice): A Michelin-starred gem where South African chef Jan Hendrik blends Riviera ingredients with refined, globally inspired technique.
Le Bistrot de JAN (Nice): The more relaxed sister to JAN, offering elevated bistro fare with bold flavors and a lively, convivial atmosphere.
L’Alchimie (Nice): An intimate, chef-driven restaurant known for its creative tasting menus and quietly exceptional wine pairings.
Paloma Beach (Cap Ferrat): An iconic Riviera beach restaurant where long seaside lunches stretch effortlessly into sun-soaked afternoons.
Need to know
Off-menu beach club strategy: Arrive early and stay through sunset. The Riviera truly shifts after 5 pm, when day-trippers leave and the light softens.
Private boat afternoon (small and simple): Instead of a flashy yacht charter, rent a small boat for a few hours and drop anchor in a quiet cove near Cap Ferrat. Bring a picnic and nowhere to be.
Aperitif in Villefranche’s Old Port (not the Main Square): Skip the tourist-facing terraces and tuck into a smaller harbor-side café for rosé as fishing boats drift in at golden hour.
Take the coastal train (not the car): Skip driving and ride the TER train between Nice, Villefranche, and Menton, it hugs the coastline with cinematic views and feels wonderfully European. It is VERY crowded in the summer at peak times so bring your patience.
Travel Advisor
Deirdre Schwiring
Get in touch with Deirdre Schwiring
Did you like this guide? Reach out to customize and book your own experience. Or, just to chat about travel in general.
You can expect a response from Deirdre Schwiring within 1–2 business days. You’ll also be subscribed to our traveler newsletter (you can unsubscribe at any time).
For more inspiration and insider recommendations, visit our South of France page.