The Ireland I Keep Coming Back To

Howth boat tour

For something a little different near Dublin, I like sending clients out to Howth for a boat tour along the cliffs—the boat leaves from the West Pier and swings past Ireland’s Eye, where you’ll usually spot puffins, gannets, or seals depending on the season. It’s an easy half-day add-on for anyone with extra time in Dublin.

Grange Stone Circle

Everyone stops at Drombeg Stone Circle in West Cork, and it's worth it for sure, but the circle that has stuck with me is Grange Stone Circle in Limerick—I return to it, time and time again. It gets a fraction of the visitors, and I swear, the stones actually hum when you touch them. I love the narrow lanes, too, the way they suddenly crest and you're looking down at some village you didn't know was there. That's the Ireland I keep trying to get clients to.

The Gap of Dunloe

The Gap of Dunloe near Killarney—a boat across the lakes, then a pony and trap through the mountain pass—is what I build in for clients who want something scenic that isn't physically demanding.

Inch Beach

Inch Beach, on the way into Dingle, is one I still think about all these years later. I was there with my daughter— she was seven at the time—and she was exhausted from the overnight flight and the slow drive to Dingle. We saw the sign for Inch Beach, turned off, and drove right down onto the sand with all the other cars. She changed into her swimsuit in the back seat and spent the next hour swimming with some other kids. Just prior to sundown, when the tide started to turn, we packed up and drove on to Dingle for the next two nights. I still have the photos from that afternoon—it's one of my favorite memories from all six of my Ireland trips.

The Slea Head Drive

The Slea Head Drive, out past Dingle town, puts the ocean on one side and old stone villages on the other. I always tell clients to give themselves more time than they think they need—most people plan a quick loop and end up wanting to stop every few minutes.

The Cliffs of Moher

The Cliffs of Moher are non-negotiable for first-time clients—yes, everyone goes, but there's a reason. I usually pair it with a stop at the Burren Perfumery's tea room and the Poulnabrone Dolmen nearby; it's these small additions that round out the day nicely.

Kayaking Dingle Bay

Kayaking Dingle Bay is a good option for clients comfortable on the water. Paddling beneath the cliffs, with a real chance of spotting dolphins, is a completely different way to see that coastline than from a car. I've done it, and I highly recommend it.

Horseback riding

A horseback ride along a beach in County Mayo, with Croagh Patrick rising up behind you, is one of the more memorable half-days I build into western Ireland itineraries.

Newgrange

Newgrange, in County Meath, is one I’ve been to myself. Standing inside that passage tomb—older than the pyramids, tucked into the Boyne Valley—is something photos don’t really capture. Tickets are timed and go through the Brú na Bóinne Visitor Centre, so I always make sure those are booked well in advance.

Family ties

On one of my trips, I brought my sister along—it was her first time in Ireland. We drove out to Kilmihill, a tiny town in County Clare, because that’s where our great-grandfather was from, and we wanted to see it for ourselves. It’s not on any tour itinerary, but tracking down a piece of your own family history like that is something I always bring up with clients who have Irish roots worth chasing. You can start your inquiries at the Epic Museum’s Irish Family History Centre before you go, so we can plan an excursion to introduce you to your Irish heritage.

The Cobblestone (Dublin)

The Cobblestone in Smithfield, Dublin, is my go-to for live music. it's one of the most welcoming sessions I've come across, and it's clearly still a place where the locals go to play, not just perform for visitors.

Chapter One (Dublin)

Chapter One, on Parnell Square in Dublin, is where I send clients celebrating something. It's a splurge, but worth doing once. For a more casual night, The Winding Stair above the old bookshop by the river is an easy walk from most Dublin hotels.

The Boxty House (Dublin)

The Boxty House in Temple Bar is a solid, casual option for traditional dishes like boxty (savory potato pancakes) and stew—good for clients who want something authentically Irish without anything too adventurous on the menu.

Fishy Fishy (Kinsale)

In Kinsale, Fishy Fishy is the seafood spot I recommend to almost everyone. It's touristy, but for good reason. For something quieter, The Bulman is a locals' pub down by the water in Summercove, a nice way to end a day at Charles Fort.

Bricín (Killarney)

Bricín in Killarney serves boxty upstairs from a craft shop on High Street. Old-school and reliably good.

Out of the Blue (Dingle)

In Dingle, Out of the Blue is a seafood shack right by the pier that won't open some days if the catch isn't good enough—which says a lot about what you're getting when it is.

Aniar (Galway)

Aniar in Galway is Michelin-starred and a real splurge, but it's the kind of meal clients still bring up months later.